Arrow headers are INSTALLED!

Congrats on the finished product (for now:)). I was waiting to see how the coating looked. I want to get my headers black ceramic coated to change the look of the bike and was hoping for an example of how it'd look.

Can't wait to hear the results for performance changes as well. My buddy did headers on his G37 coupe and it made a pretty big difference, I've always wondered how big of a change on the bike it would be.
 
Thanks all for the compliments. And thanks googan for the advice. Can you please detail the PCV switch or point me to a thread on one of the two sites? Thanks!

I did look at the maps and compared. My wife put them in an Excel spreadsheet and on the third workbook, only the differences show up. The Graves map for the Stacks is leaned out a lot in the bottom and some at the top. I don't know how the stacks change the map but I'll give it a shot. Having the switch will be cool. So you can switch while riding? :eek5: :tup:

I'll map it tonight and try a ride Monday. The weather here is finally getting nice.

When running it last night (and I did sneek in a few revs without the 2Bros on!) there were no issues with leaks anywhere. I only ran it enough to burn off all residue. I think I need to also swap out the P4 tip on the 2Bros for the P1X like Michele has on hers. The restrictions on the P1X are less but the sound suppression is more... the design of it breaks up the sound waves better. Her bike has a deeper note at idle and in the low range.
 
Make that P1X tip official... ordered! For those who want to know, here's the tip I have and then the tip I ordered. Mind you, NH has strict sound ordinance policies and if they stop you, the bike would need to be towed along with a fine. I'd rather have the tip in than pay for all that.

005-p4_supressor.jpg
41cxN3fynXL.jpg
 
Looking good Eric.
I left my Arrow headers as they come from the factory and haven't touched them since.
They still look pretty good and you can always polish them at a later stage if you want to.
 
ballmead said:
Looking good Eric.
I left my Arrow headers as they come from the factory and haven't touched them since.
They still look pretty good and you can always polish them at a later stage if you want to.
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That is good to know! I admit I was concerned mocking them up off the bike because I couldn't get all four pipes to line up. But once you start and put the parts together, it all falls into place easily... can't miss! And it took no time at all. :D

I'll install the map tomorrow to test and will ride for the first time this week. What map are you using and do you have the velocity stacks too?
 
Cobalt said:
Thanks all for the compliments. And thanks googan for the advice. Can you please detail the PCV switch or point me to a thread on one of the two sites? Thanks!

Having the switch will be cool. So you can switch while riding? :eek5: :tup:
Click to expand...

Any toggle switch will work for the map switch. I got one at the local auto parts store and mounted it on the left side ( clutch lever side ) of the bike on the black plastic inner fairing piece. Then you just run 2 wires to the PVC.
Think I used a single strand wire that's on the thin side from radio shack dont remember the gauge off hand... Maybe 22-24
The PVC has a few open ..... um ports ( for lack or a better word ) that you just slip the wire into and then tighten a set screw. If you don't have directions for the map switch I'm sure you can find them online at dynojet.



Yes you can switch the map on the fly any time you like. Any speed, rpm or gear is no problem :)


:EDIT: PFD of PCV directions

http://www.powercommander.com/downloads/22-030/install/pcv/eng22-030.pdf

Any open / closed toggle switch, 2 wires and your set. Think you may also have to enable the map switch option with the pcv. When you look at the directions you will see how simple it is.
 
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super googan said:
Any toggle switch will work for the map switch. I got one at the local auto parts store and mounted it on the left side ( clutch lever side ) of the bike on the black plastic inner fairing piece. Then you just run 2 wires to the PVC.
Think I used a single strand wire that's on the thin side from radio shack dont remember the gauge off hand... Maybe 22-26
The PVC has a few open ..... um ports ( for lack or a better word ) that you just slip the wire into and then tighten a set screw. If you don't have directions for the map switch I'm sure you can find them online at dynojet.

Yes you can switch the map on the fly any time you like. Any speed, rpm or gear is no problem :)
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Guess who's going to get a switch on Monday! :D I'll head over to the site and see what's up for the spots to tighten these wires into. Thank you!! :sinister:

*EDIT* Found it. It's the last two holes closest to the center of the unit... polarity doesn't matter and any OPEN/CLOSE switch will work. Awesome dude!
 
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Also Have another pdf, forgot that i had it. It's a 450 page service manual produced by yamaha motor company in dec. of 05 for the 2nd gen fz1. can't remember where i found it. Says it was produced for dealers and their qualified mechanics.
 
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Jmcculler662 said:
Don't know what maps you have, when i got my pcIII i found a bunch on maps, they are in a zip file titled duke's maps. Has a folder of pcV maps in it. Your welcome to if you want to look through it. Can send it to you.
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Thanks for this but I do have those. I have quite a few more I've gotten from other sources as well. Trying to find the sweet one is the mystery. ;) One that was suggested some time ago and runs great on a lot of bikes out there.... well, it made my bike run SO BAD that I had to kill it in 30 seconds... sounded like a HD! :eek5: :embarrased: Right now I'm on the Stage III smoothed from whittlebeast but will also try the Stage IV smoothed. There's talk of a few others... I'm also collecting all maps I find with this compliment of mods and will average them out into a new map and see how it compares.

She'll do OK on the Graves map I think. I'll report back for sure!
 
Eric, I'm running a custom map I had made for me here in Australia at a place called Doin Bikes.

I'm not running any velocity stacks, just the mods in my signature.

Sent from my SG3
 
The "full package" of bolt ons will get you very close to 150hp. You will also get nearly 30hp more than a stock bike at 7.5K. Adding an R1 head gasket (obviously requires removing the head) will help you to just break the 150hp mark and typically will give 2-3hp gains throughout the rev range. Adding R1 cams can give you decent gains on top but you will loose midrange and low end some. You will also eventually hit the safe Rev Limit for these motors so without doing mods to let you wind up higher top end power will be limited by rev limits. All in all the full package bike makes good midrange (better than a 5valve R1 with mods) power that is very useable. Going much over 150hp will cost a bunch and low and midrange will suffer. . . .At that point, spending your money on weight loss (for you and your bike) is probably a wiser approach.
 
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Chain lubed, tire pressures set, PCV hooked up with throttle position calibrated, Graves FULL/Stacks map loaded.

She is CRAZY MAD READY! Toyed with the throttle on the center stand... no more flat spots and it is VERY quick to redline... I'm scared of it! :tup: :sinister:
 
Cobalt said:
Chain lubed, tire pressures set, PCV hooked up with throttle position calibrated, Graves FULL/Stacks map loaded.

She is CRAZY MAD READY! Toyed with the throttle on the center stand... no more flat spots and it is VERY quick to redline... I'm scared of it! :tup: :sinister:
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I'm sure you're going to like that mid-range torque ;)
 
I don't have the have the Arrow header, but I really noticed that when going to a full system it got rid of the "Jeckyll & Hide" characteristic this bike has... basically that feeling of being on a 600 until you hit the high rpms then it goes into "liter-bike mode"... having the nice bump in the mid-range has made the bike so much funner and easier to ride. The Arrows look really nice on your bike.
 
I was sooooooo ready to ride it to work today and it was raining when I was ready to leave. 1 hour later I am at work and the sun is shining. :disapproval:

I should have ridden it in this morning!
 
Cobalt said:
I was sooooooo ready to ride it to work today and it was raining when I was ready to leave. 1 hour later I am at work and the sun is shining. :disapproval:

I should have ridden it in this morning!
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OK, you said bring the bike, parts, and beer to your place right!

Your bike is awesome! I will be PCSing to Rhode Island soon...
 
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