FZ1riderNY
Moderator
Don't worry Spydar, this weekends going to be beautiful!!!
What did you do to your FZ today?
- Thread starter CrazyBiker
- Start date
Don't worry Spydar, this weekends going to be beautiful!!!
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
I lost the screw to my db killer inside my exhaust.Now I need to take it off so I can let gravity do the retrieval....
Put a few small magnets around the exhaust tip then rev it to 10k and dump the clutch. Once she's upright, the screw will grab a magnet while you wheelie.
FZ1riderNY
Moderator
By the way, I may have asked this already, but where in Northern New Jersey are you?, and do you ride up by Harriman? We are always around there if you ever want to do some rides up in Rockland.
Hail
Moderator
Put a few small magnets around the exhaust tip then rev it to 10k and dump the clutch. Once she's upright, the screw will grab a magnet while you wheelie.
:hellno:
You are LOCO!
:justkidding:
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
BTW, today? I rode her again! Weather wasn't great but I'm not caring about what Mother Nature has in store lately. At least it didn't rain!
At least it didn't rain!
Missyl1713
Wizard
Today I picked up spark plugs, ordered a new rear tire, a K&N filter, Roth block off plates, and carbon fiber frame sliders. When the tire comes and the dealership puts it on, I'll be replacing plugs, replacing antifreeze, installing block off plates, and the air filter. Can't WAIT!!
CrazyBiker
Wizard
Have rode almost 95% of the times I wanted to get her out even in 20F or torrential downpour.
FZ1riderNY
Moderator
EZ Pass Mount
Some of you older guys may remember the old Reeses Commercial with the two guys walking into each other and getting the one guy's chocolate mixed with the other guy's peanut butter. Well I was sitting down staring at my RAM mount and had a light bulb go off above my head. Since I won't be using the Garmin for a while until they send me a new unit, I decided to fix another one of my issues.
I took the RAM mount and disassembled it.
I then took my EZ Pass Holder and removed the suction cups and made some marks with the screwdriver.......
I drilled out some holes and mounted the RAM Ball onto the EZ Pass Mount..
I made a test fit and it worked beautifully....
This is the finished product. This is gonna save me alot of headaches. No more unsightly gadgets stuck to the windshield, and no more Toll Notices because the tag wasn't read properly....
So there it is. I can't wait to try it out on Saturday. It should be "smooth sailing" all the way to New Hampshire!!!
Some of you older guys may remember the old Reeses Commercial with the two guys walking into each other and getting the one guy's chocolate mixed with the other guy's peanut butter. Well I was sitting down staring at my RAM mount and had a light bulb go off above my head. Since I won't be using the Garmin for a while until they send me a new unit, I decided to fix another one of my issues.
I took the RAM mount and disassembled it.
I then took my EZ Pass Holder and removed the suction cups and made some marks with the screwdriver.......
I drilled out some holes and mounted the RAM Ball onto the EZ Pass Mount..
I made a test fit and it worked beautifully....
This is the finished product. This is gonna save me alot of headaches. No more unsightly gadgets stuck to the windshield, and no more Toll Notices because the tag wasn't read properly....
So there it is. I can't wait to try it out on Saturday. It should be "smooth sailing" all the way to New Hampshire!!!
Hail
Moderator
Holy cow that thing is big. I thought my toll tag was big. That is ridiculous. It is like a 1980s toll tag.
NJFZ1
Moderator
Billy that's an excellent idea. Should work great since you don't use a tank bag and I can't see it falling out. So far my trick of sticking my E-Z Pass tag in the clear map pocket on top of the tank bag is working for me.
FZ1riderNY
Moderator
Really? I thought that all EZ Passes were the same size? Do you have something smaller out there by you?
NJFZ1
Moderator
I think E-Z Pass is a NE and Mid Atlantic states thing. Other states use a different system (vendor) for their electronic toll collection.
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Nice work Billy! Great idea!
You only need one of these and another arm! :tup:
You only need one of these and another arm! :tup:
Octupi
Well-Known Member
I rewired my rear signals and added a new flash relay.
I also created a youtube acct so you can see the results there...or here:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkYscw-2RjA]YouTube - Mivv Suono Carbon and additions[/ame]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Nm5svmSg64]YouTube - Yamaha FZ1[/ame]
I also created a youtube acct so you can see the results there...or here:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkYscw-2RjA]YouTube - Mivv Suono Carbon and additions[/ame]
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0Nm5svmSg64]YouTube - Yamaha FZ1[/ame]
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Nice job Octupi! Glad you got them sorted out. Looks great! I'm still envious of the Suono!
FZ1riderNY
Moderator
Nice work Billy! Great idea!
You only need one of these and another arm! :tup:
Now thats what you call "killing two birds with one stone". Thats a nice piece! Never seen that one before but the wheels are turning now!!!! Thanks!
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
They sell these at a place up here by the White Mountains. It's a really nice ride to get to the place and an even longer/better ride back out (side trip!) but it's also a ride that we wish you'd both be here for a full day meaning, stay over another night.... but I know it's not possible.
Whitehorse Gear - Start Off the New Year Right with Whitehorse Gear! and under products, check out the RAM stuff.
Took off the "city" seat and put the lowered one back on so I could get my tent, sleeping bag, and air mattress on the back. All packed and ready for the FJR Camp Meet in Cruso NC. Leaving tomorrow afternoon after I trailer (don't say a word) the bike to my Aunts in South Carolina to drop off my mom. Then I'm on the road!!!
I had to buy a smaller air mattress. Why didn't somebody tell me converting from car camping to moto camping would require buying everything twice? Smaller Tent, check. Smaller air mattress, check. I'm going to keep my beloved big ass sleeping bag though! I still have the double burner propane stove but won't be needing it for this trip. I'm trying to make my own alcohol stove from an instructable--the beer can bottle one.
Still debating about brining the laptop. Camground has wifi and it'd be nice to be able to download and watch video by the campfire each night...hmmmm I think I just typed myself into it. Now, where to put it?
I had to buy a smaller air mattress. Why didn't somebody tell me converting from car camping to moto camping would require buying everything twice? Smaller Tent, check. Smaller air mattress, check. I'm going to keep my beloved big ass sleeping bag though! I still have the double burner propane stove but won't be needing it for this trip. I'm trying to make my own alcohol stove from an instructable--the beer can bottle one.
Still debating about brining the laptop. Camground has wifi and it'd be nice to be able to download and watch video by the campfire each night...hmmmm I think I just typed myself into it. Now, where to put it?
FZ1fun
Well-Known Member
Got the carbs out yesterday and I'm jetting them today, along with porting the air box, porting the carb boots, and replacing the air filter. I might be ordering a sprocket and chain depending on what I find when opening that up today.
Oldschool
Moderator
Braided Steel Lines
Installed my Braided steel lines that I bought from HEL. This was the first time swapping lines on a bike for me. I put towels over all the fresh painted parts,(all the painted parts anywhere near the work areas to be truthfull) Then wrapped cling wrap around a few others. Had rags and paper towels handy. I used this article as a guide;
"Put your bike on front and rear work stands, or a rear stand at least. You want it level and sitting on a solid, stable platform.
Remove your windscreen and set it aside. It's easier to work on the front of the bike w/o the screen on, and this way you avoid mucking it up with a spilled drip of brake fluid (more on that later). Put some old towels on top of your instrument cluster, fairing, and fuel tank too.
You should have some plastic clip-type fasteners which hold the factory lines to the back of the fender. Remove those so the midsection of the lines are free.
The first thing you'll use the pump for is sucking out the bulk fluid from the reservoir cup. Unscrew and remove the plastic cover, insert the free end of the vinyl tubing, and pump to your heart's content. Easy as pie.
Next you'll want to drape some more towels on the bottom half of your front wheel because you will still have fluid in the line, and when you unbolt it from the caliper, it's going to dribble some. (Note: at the risk of insult, the hex-head fasteners which attach the lines to the master cylinder and calipers are called banjo bolts, so that's what I'll refer to them as from here on out.) Just have a jar or bottle handy so you can put the leaking free end of the stock rubber line inside to catch the majority of the draining fluid.
A word on working with brake fluid: don't flip out if you get a drop on your fork, caliper, wheel or other painted surface. Stay calm, wipe it off with a dry paper towel (more absorbent than a cloth towel) and you'll be fine. You might want to clean the now dry spot with another paper towel and some Honda Spray Cleaner & Polish (even this ex-954 owner loves Honda chems!) if you're really worried about it. The point is, people talk about brake fluid as if it's nitroglycerin or something sure to ruin your bike the instant it touches anything painted. Not true. Be careful, wipe up spills, and you'll be fine.
Okay, once the majority of the fluid in the line has drained, unbolt the banjo at the master cylinder up top on the right clip-on. Have a paper towel ready to capture any drips from the top of the line. Carefully thread the line down through the fairing and out the bottom of the bike. You'll be tossing it, the OEM banjo bolts, and all used crush washers (new ones come with your Galfer kit).
Get the new lines ready. The front kit is a two line affair with a long and a short line. Take a look at the back of the package - it'll tell you where to place the new crush washers, how many to use, etc. (basically at each and every 'joint'). The short line is the right side which will go against the master; the left line rides on top of it. Bolt everything up, make sure the lines aren't binding on anything at full lock, then torque to 12 to 15 ft-lbs.
Unscrew and remove the stock bleeder nipples from both the right and left calipers. Again, you may get a drip. Just have a paper towel handy, this is not the end of the world. Replace the stock bleeders with the new Speedbleeders you bought. No need to seal the threads with Teflon tape or wheel bearing grease as the SB's come with thread sealant already applied. Tighten them down with a small wrench, but don't overtighten.
Now you're going to attach the Mityvac to the left caliper's SB via the clear vinyl tubing. Set it down and get your bottle of DOT 4. Carefully pour it into the reservoir cup, almost all the way to the top (just leave enough room that it doesn't spill if you jiggle the bike a bit). Unscrew the SB 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Begin pumping the Mityvac. You'll see fluid begin to disappear from the cup. Now you're beginning to prime the lines.
At first you'll be sucking only air and you'll have to stop pumping from time to time so you can stand up and pour more DOT 4 into the cup (you don't want to let it get sucked dry because that means you've drawn air into the system and you'll be starting over).
Eventually (it really doesn't take too long), you'll see fresh brake fluid coming out of the SB, through the clear tubing, and into the catch cup attached to the Mityvac. Keep pumping and pouring until you get mostly clean fluid coming through without big gaps of air pockets (small bubbles will remain, but don't fret, we'll take care of them in a few minutes).
By now you might want to unscrew the Mity's catch cup and dump the fluid into another container. Snug up the SB on the left side. Go around the bike and prime the right line in the same manner described above. Once you get mostly clean fluid coming through, you've got both front lines primed and you're ready for the final bleed.
At this point, you're done with the pump. You can remove it, leaving yourself a length of clear tubing to attach to the SB's and the catch cup at the end. I like to go back to the left side caliper and start the final bleed there because it's the longest line, but I have no scientific reason to support why I do this. I think you could begin on either side and have it work out just fine.
Again, you'll want to back out your SB about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Attach your tubing and catch cup. Make sure you've got sufficient fluid inside the res. Give the brake lever a full squeeze, slow and firm, all the way to the bar. Then release, keeping an eye on your fluid level to make sure you don't run dry as you go. Repeat above as necessary.
You should see movement in the fluid and a gradual reduction in not only the number of bubbles coming out the SB, but also in the size of them as well.
If you've done things correctly, you should be pushing virtually unblemished, virgin DOT 4 through the lines and out the SB in very short order, just a number of pulls on the lever.
You might need your husband, wife, S.O. or roomie here at the end, because I like to close the SB about mid-stroke on the brake lever just to make sure the line fluid is under pressure when the escape route is sealed off. (You can simply tighten the SB after your last pull of the lever and be okay, however. The internal check-valve is what prevents air getting into the system.)
Now go over to the other side of the bike and repeat the final bleed process.
Once you're done up front, you pretty much follow the same steps to replace, prime, and bleed the rear line.
The final thing I like to do is use a nylon tie to hold back the front brake lever with the bike on its side stand and bars locked to the left. This places the master cylinder as high as you can get it. Take the plastic handle end of a screwdriver and gently rap the calipers, banjo bolts, and lines from top to bottom. By the next morning, any teeny-tiny bubbles which might have evaded your expert bleeding adventures should have, in theory, escaped up and into the res.
You're all done! Go inside, shower up, and crack a beer. You've earned it!"
It only took a couple of hours and that long because I was be overly carefull. I treated the DOT 4 like it was battery acid and did not spill or leak on the bike anywhere. I also used a hand pump vacuum bleeder that made the one man operation MUCH easier when the bleeding of the brakes was done. The feel of the brakes is MUCH better so the time was worth it. Felt good to do this myself.
Installed my Braided steel lines that I bought from HEL. This was the first time swapping lines on a bike for me. I put towels over all the fresh painted parts,(all the painted parts anywhere near the work areas to be truthfull) Then wrapped cling wrap around a few others. Had rags and paper towels handy. I used this article as a guide;
"Put your bike on front and rear work stands, or a rear stand at least. You want it level and sitting on a solid, stable platform.
Remove your windscreen and set it aside. It's easier to work on the front of the bike w/o the screen on, and this way you avoid mucking it up with a spilled drip of brake fluid (more on that later). Put some old towels on top of your instrument cluster, fairing, and fuel tank too.
You should have some plastic clip-type fasteners which hold the factory lines to the back of the fender. Remove those so the midsection of the lines are free.
The first thing you'll use the pump for is sucking out the bulk fluid from the reservoir cup. Unscrew and remove the plastic cover, insert the free end of the vinyl tubing, and pump to your heart's content. Easy as pie.
Next you'll want to drape some more towels on the bottom half of your front wheel because you will still have fluid in the line, and when you unbolt it from the caliper, it's going to dribble some. (Note: at the risk of insult, the hex-head fasteners which attach the lines to the master cylinder and calipers are called banjo bolts, so that's what I'll refer to them as from here on out.) Just have a jar or bottle handy so you can put the leaking free end of the stock rubber line inside to catch the majority of the draining fluid.
A word on working with brake fluid: don't flip out if you get a drop on your fork, caliper, wheel or other painted surface. Stay calm, wipe it off with a dry paper towel (more absorbent than a cloth towel) and you'll be fine. You might want to clean the now dry spot with another paper towel and some Honda Spray Cleaner & Polish (even this ex-954 owner loves Honda chems!) if you're really worried about it. The point is, people talk about brake fluid as if it's nitroglycerin or something sure to ruin your bike the instant it touches anything painted. Not true. Be careful, wipe up spills, and you'll be fine.
Okay, once the majority of the fluid in the line has drained, unbolt the banjo at the master cylinder up top on the right clip-on. Have a paper towel ready to capture any drips from the top of the line. Carefully thread the line down through the fairing and out the bottom of the bike. You'll be tossing it, the OEM banjo bolts, and all used crush washers (new ones come with your Galfer kit).
Get the new lines ready. The front kit is a two line affair with a long and a short line. Take a look at the back of the package - it'll tell you where to place the new crush washers, how many to use, etc. (basically at each and every 'joint'). The short line is the right side which will go against the master; the left line rides on top of it. Bolt everything up, make sure the lines aren't binding on anything at full lock, then torque to 12 to 15 ft-lbs.
Unscrew and remove the stock bleeder nipples from both the right and left calipers. Again, you may get a drip. Just have a paper towel handy, this is not the end of the world. Replace the stock bleeders with the new Speedbleeders you bought. No need to seal the threads with Teflon tape or wheel bearing grease as the SB's come with thread sealant already applied. Tighten them down with a small wrench, but don't overtighten.
Now you're going to attach the Mityvac to the left caliper's SB via the clear vinyl tubing. Set it down and get your bottle of DOT 4. Carefully pour it into the reservoir cup, almost all the way to the top (just leave enough room that it doesn't spill if you jiggle the bike a bit). Unscrew the SB 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. Begin pumping the Mityvac. You'll see fluid begin to disappear from the cup. Now you're beginning to prime the lines.
At first you'll be sucking only air and you'll have to stop pumping from time to time so you can stand up and pour more DOT 4 into the cup (you don't want to let it get sucked dry because that means you've drawn air into the system and you'll be starting over).
Eventually (it really doesn't take too long), you'll see fresh brake fluid coming out of the SB, through the clear tubing, and into the catch cup attached to the Mityvac. Keep pumping and pouring until you get mostly clean fluid coming through without big gaps of air pockets (small bubbles will remain, but don't fret, we'll take care of them in a few minutes).
By now you might want to unscrew the Mity's catch cup and dump the fluid into another container. Snug up the SB on the left side. Go around the bike and prime the right line in the same manner described above. Once you get mostly clean fluid coming through, you've got both front lines primed and you're ready for the final bleed.
At this point, you're done with the pump. You can remove it, leaving yourself a length of clear tubing to attach to the SB's and the catch cup at the end. I like to go back to the left side caliper and start the final bleed there because it's the longest line, but I have no scientific reason to support why I do this. I think you could begin on either side and have it work out just fine.
Again, you'll want to back out your SB about a 1/4 to 1/2 turn. Attach your tubing and catch cup. Make sure you've got sufficient fluid inside the res. Give the brake lever a full squeeze, slow and firm, all the way to the bar. Then release, keeping an eye on your fluid level to make sure you don't run dry as you go. Repeat above as necessary.
You should see movement in the fluid and a gradual reduction in not only the number of bubbles coming out the SB, but also in the size of them as well.
If you've done things correctly, you should be pushing virtually unblemished, virgin DOT 4 through the lines and out the SB in very short order, just a number of pulls on the lever.
You might need your husband, wife, S.O. or roomie here at the end, because I like to close the SB about mid-stroke on the brake lever just to make sure the line fluid is under pressure when the escape route is sealed off. (You can simply tighten the SB after your last pull of the lever and be okay, however. The internal check-valve is what prevents air getting into the system.)
Now go over to the other side of the bike and repeat the final bleed process.
Once you're done up front, you pretty much follow the same steps to replace, prime, and bleed the rear line.
The final thing I like to do is use a nylon tie to hold back the front brake lever with the bike on its side stand and bars locked to the left. This places the master cylinder as high as you can get it. Take the plastic handle end of a screwdriver and gently rap the calipers, banjo bolts, and lines from top to bottom. By the next morning, any teeny-tiny bubbles which might have evaded your expert bleeding adventures should have, in theory, escaped up and into the res.
You're all done! Go inside, shower up, and crack a beer. You've earned it!"
It only took a couple of hours and that long because I was be overly carefull. I treated the DOT 4 like it was battery acid and did not spill or leak on the bike anywhere. I also used a hand pump vacuum bleeder that made the one man operation MUCH easier when the bleeding of the brakes was done. The feel of the brakes is MUCH better so the time was worth it. Felt good to do this myself.