tombraider2
Wizard
I'm tired of paying Yamaha price for oil. In my dirt machines I ran GTX and never had an issue with clutch or anything. So, Does anyone use other oil, rather than Bike Oil ?
Oil
- Thread starter tombraider2
- Start date
jspansel
Well-Known Member
Rotella is pretty popular.
Dustin
Moderator
I use Shell Rotella T6
It's $21 at Wal-Mart any day of the week and is a JASO-MA certified oil which is a Japanese standard for motorcycle oils. That means it's a-ok for motorcycles, vroom vroom!
It's $21 at Wal-Mart any day of the week and is a JASO-MA certified oil which is a Japanese standard for motorcycle oils. That means it's a-ok for motorcycles, vroom vroom!
BDazzler
Wizard
I pay too much and use Mobil 1 4T
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Brock Kickass
Wizard
I've been wondering what others have been doing about oil but haven't seen any threads on the topic. This pretty much a do whatever issue, or does anyone have a strong opinion on the matter? 
FZ1riderNY
Moderator
I've been wondering what others have been doing about oil but haven't seen any threads on the topic. This pretty much a do whatever issue, or does anyone have a strong opinion on the matter?
There's a scarcity of "oil" threads on many forums due to the fact that it's one of those topics that usually leads nowhere. Basically, if you ask 20 people what oil they feel is the best, you'll wind up with 16 different answers, and 16 different reasons they feel that theirs is the way to go. In the end, it comes down to what you feel comfortable using, what you can afford to use, and what is deemed safe for your type of bike. I like to say that as long as it doesn't have the "Energy Conserving" label written on the back of the container, it's safe to use on wet clutch systems, period. If you change your oil religiously every 3,000 miles, then there is no need to buy an expensive synthetic oil.
So basically if you see this: ***NO BUENO***
Brock Kickass
Wizard
Sorry, I guess my humor was a little dry. I was just goofing around. I've seen the most passionate and pointless flame wars start because one guy likes Yamalube and the other guy insists the no name crap they sell at Wal Mart is the same stuff in a different jug. Anyway, I use Yamalube, because it's easier than thinking too hard about it.
FZ1riderNY
Moderator
Damn! I didn't see that coming! It takes me a while to catch on..: oops:
By the way, I like Yamalube too. The problem is that the price the dealers charge for oil around here, I can almost get the Mobil 1 from Walmart for the same price or maybe a few cents more.
n.e.mich
Wizard
I use Amsoil 10W-30 full synthetic motorcycle oil (I just prefer Amsoil over the rest) and a K&N filter (I like the 17MM nut welded on for ease of removal). I change the oil/filter every 2500-3000 miles. I just can't get myself to use automotive oil in a wet clutch bike. None of my bikes have ever used oil and I haven't hurt an engine so it must be working. Something about watching the tach hit 13-14,000 rpm's make me glad I use really good oil.
gtbigup01
Wizard
Why change at 3000? I guess back in the early days, say 15 yrs ago oil change interval was 3000 by the oil manufacturer. These days peope are stepping up to synthetic oils and are still changing oil at 3000 miles even though the bike manufacturer interval is greater than that. What's the deal, is everyone just stuck on 3000 miles or something? Last time I checked Yamaha oil change interval is 4000 miles so if I step up to a more xpensive fully synthetic oil, I sure as heck ain't changing at 3000 miles but I guess whatever makes everyone comfortable is what it boils down to, but when it makes no sense it leaves me scratching my head.
I had a 2007 Honda hadow 1100 where the oil change interval was 8000 miles, of course the dealer suggest you changed it at 4000
.gconk
Member
There's a scarcity of "oil" threads on many forums due to the fact that it's one of those topics that usually leads nowhere. Basically, if you ask 20 people what oil they feel is the best, you'll wind up with 16 different answers, and 16 different reasons they feel that theirs is the way to go. In the end, it comes down to what you feel comfortable using, what you can afford to use, and what is deemed safe for your type of bike. I like to say that as long as it doesn't have the "Energy Conserving" label written on the back of the container, it's safe to use on wet clutch systems, period. If you change your oil religiously every 3,000 miles, then there is no need to buy an expensive synthetic oil.
So basically if you see this: ***NO BUENO***
I have been on a bunch of forums, mostly truck forums (Ford man here, don't hate!) And pretty much what I have found, from all of the heated debates, that everyone has there own opinion and many are quite stubborn about it. I have done quite a bit of research myself just to find out that I get confused and don't understand the terminology for the most part once you get to the real technical portions. So pretty much, what I have found, much like many of the other members have said, is just stick with what you are comfortable with in your bike. I use Yamalube simply because it is easier than trying to weed through what is and isn't true when it comes to oil. At any rate, good luck!
Dreamdemon
Well-Known Member
Everywhere in the world the interval is 6000 miles only in the US it is 4000. I change the oil every 6000 but use the right oil 20W50 for the hotter month and 10W40 for the cooler month. I did the same in Germany when I had a high fraction of high speed riding, never had any damage on any engine.
I think they try to sell you more oil because in the US it is very cheap. The engine can take for sure 6000 miles intervals even with non synthetic oil. Yamaha lube is non synthetic and is what Yamaha recommends.
Well everyone what he likes best, so if you want to change more often do it. Worry less drive more is always true.
I think they try to sell you more oil because in the US it is very cheap. The engine can take for sure 6000 miles intervals even with non synthetic oil. Yamaha lube is non synthetic and is what Yamaha recommends.
Well everyone what he likes best, so if you want to change more often do it. Worry less drive more is always true
.
eurocats
Well-Known Member
oils are much better than years ago. What about if you don't make 3000K mark p/year, will you run same lube following year?
Old way was 3000 miles or once p/year
Old way was 3000 miles or once p/year
OneSizeFitsAll
Wizard
The Bay area has a hot month? lolup
Evitzee
Wizard
Truth be told, I doubt anyone can relate any catastrophic engine failure in a bike, or car, related to using a particular brand, weight of oil. Opinions on oils are like an a**hole, everybody has one. As long as it ok for use in a wet clutch (JASO MA rated) you'll be ok. You can throw a lot of money at the problem with special oils, or not, it's up to you as to whatever makes you feel good. There is no right or wrong, it just depends on how deep your pocket is and what ideas are in your noggin.
lindy
Well-Known Member
:rmwl:
An attempt to figure out "energy conserving" oils.
Trying to find out what is required of "energy conserving " oils in the oil industry or what defines those oils, I have done a little looking into the subject. I have a technical background and should be able to decipher whatever is out there.
But looking into the API (American Petroleum Institute) trying to find what defines "energy conserving" oils is tough. They are responsible for the "stamp" on the bottle. They have their own standard (specification) which calls out other industry standards (specifications). It appears that their (API) control is on the testing aspects of oils rather than specifically additives. The additives are left to the oil producers - then the oils are tested.
In all, it is a confusing array of standards/documents from a number of different sources - and not just API.
I could not find specific words (requirements) about "special additives" for the "Energy Conserving" oils. I am unwilling to go through the efforts and expense of obtaining the various industry standards and specifications loosely referenced by the API - to find what may or may not be added to these various companies oils.
I have suspected for a while that the "energy conserving" labels were actually something as simple as being put on the multi-viscosity oils that had low "cold" viscosities components - didn't have very high "high" temperature viscosities - and/or didn't not have a large "spread" between the upper and lower temperature viscosities in the multi-viscosity oils. Examples -- 5w-20 would be energy conserving. 5w-40 would not. 10w-40 would not.
These low viscoity oils would all act as relatively light weight oils - which could be called "energy conserving" simply because they were light weight - not heavier, more viscous oils. Hence my thinking for this type of labeling - no "slickness additives" (What is a slickness additive in a slick product such as oil, anyway?) I understand anti-foam additives, anti-corrosion additives, etc. But "slickness" additives??? What is that - in an oil?
But - I do not know this to be the actual reasoning - it's only been my thought for a while --- that there is no real "special slickness additive" added that creates or defines those "energy conserving" oils.
And API does not make it easy to find any real answers to the questions.
The safest thing to do is to stick with the Japanese JAMO rated oils for motorcycles - since API apparently chooses not to make the distinction - like their Japanese counterparts do. (The Japanese include tests for proper clutch operation in their requirements.)
And also continue avoiding the API "energy conserving" oils - in case there is some magical "slickness" additive - though that seems unlikely - but that is a guess on my part. After all, all oils are created for their slickness properties...
So - continue as you were.
I tried...briefly.
An attempt to figure out "energy conserving" oils.
Trying to find out what is required of "energy conserving " oils in the oil industry or what defines those oils, I have done a little looking into the subject. I have a technical background and should be able to decipher whatever is out there.
But looking into the API (American Petroleum Institute) trying to find what defines "energy conserving" oils is tough. They are responsible for the "stamp" on the bottle. They have their own standard (specification) which calls out other industry standards (specifications). It appears that their (API) control is on the testing aspects of oils rather than specifically additives. The additives are left to the oil producers - then the oils are tested.
In all, it is a confusing array of standards/documents from a number of different sources - and not just API.
I could not find specific words (requirements) about "special additives" for the "Energy Conserving" oils. I am unwilling to go through the efforts and expense of obtaining the various industry standards and specifications loosely referenced by the API - to find what may or may not be added to these various companies oils.
I have suspected for a while that the "energy conserving" labels were actually something as simple as being put on the multi-viscosity oils that had low "cold" viscosities components - didn't have very high "high" temperature viscosities - and/or didn't not have a large "spread" between the upper and lower temperature viscosities in the multi-viscosity oils. Examples -- 5w-20 would be energy conserving. 5w-40 would not. 10w-40 would not.
These low viscoity oils would all act as relatively light weight oils - which could be called "energy conserving" simply because they were light weight - not heavier, more viscous oils. Hence my thinking for this type of labeling - no "slickness additives" (What is a slickness additive in a slick product such as oil, anyway?) I understand anti-foam additives, anti-corrosion additives, etc. But "slickness" additives??? What is that - in an oil?
But - I do not know this to be the actual reasoning - it's only been my thought for a while --- that there is no real "special slickness additive" added that creates or defines those "energy conserving" oils.
And API does not make it easy to find any real answers to the questions.
The safest thing to do is to stick with the Japanese JAMO rated oils for motorcycles - since API apparently chooses not to make the distinction - like their Japanese counterparts do. (The Japanese include tests for proper clutch operation in their requirements.)
And also continue avoiding the API "energy conserving" oils - in case there is some magical "slickness" additive - though that seems unlikely - but that is a guess on my part. After all, all oils are created for their slickness properties...
So - continue as you were.
I tried...briefly.
Last edited:
tombraider2
Wizard
WOW I feel like I'm class. Well I guess I'll stick to that over priced oil as much as I hate to.
I'm kinda in wonder how fast it changes color tho. To me, if it gets dark it's going South. I think this will be my 4th change and only @ 3300 miles.
I'm kinda in wonder how fast it changes color tho. To me, if it gets dark it's going South. I think this will be my 4th change and only @ 3300 miles.
Evitzee
Wizard
Wait, what? Just because the oil turns dark does not mean it needs changing, that's not based on facts at all. If you changing oil every 800 miles you are wasting money (and good oil).
tombraider2
Wizard
Call me a Freek :kuku: I just like me stuff in TOP shape is all. When I ran 2 strokes, a new plug each day, some times twice. Rode the piss outa them.
Dreamdemon
Well-Known Member
In the summer I ride in the sierra and cross the center valley so it can be hot compared to the bay area
. Ah and I do a lot of touring, Death Valley, Monument Valley, Grand Canyon, large parts of Utha and Nevada so I am really using my bike and do not stay local .Of course only at the bay the 10w40 would be fine.