Oil

The two numbers are oil viscosity numbers (thickness). A higher number is thicker. The first number indicates the oil's viscosity at 0F, the second number indicates the same at 212F.

So a 5w40 and a 10w40 of the same oil blend offer the same protection when the bike is running and the oil is hot. People living in extreme climates (extreme hot or extreme cold) might pay more attention to the first number than those of us in mild climates. I don't know what it all means in that depth, though.
 
Yes, the diesel engine oil doesn't have 'friction modifier' additives like the oils for cars. Those additives are incompatible with the wet clutches in our bikes, that's why we can't use car oils. Get the T6, the blue jug, it's the full synthetic.

8120031_sll_5079769_pri_larg.jpg


The advantage to using the Rotella T6 is that it is a quality full synthetic for a good price that is compatible with our bike wet clutches. It's got the certification required by the manufacturer so you don't run into any issues under warranty or the like.
 
Last edited:
A Gen 2 is supposed to "start" with 10w-40. There are so many factors that we look at for oil, many based on personel choice more than science.

My "choice" is that the 5w-40 will give better start-up protection/lubrication due to its
5wt, while still giving hot temp protection with the 40wt. And, I prefer synthetics. The
T6 seals the deal with its shifting qualities, relativly low cost and ease of availability.

The reality is that we all over think the oil issue. Try some differnet things and see what you think.
 
Those additives are incompatible with the wet clutches in our bikes, that's why we can't use car oils. Get the T6, the blue jug, it's the full synthetic.
Click to expand...

I take it that you have personally tried "car" oils that have made YOUR clutch slip? I have used EC2 oils (Mobil1) in many mcs with NO ILL EFFECTS. If your going to regurgitate dogma, at least add a disclaimer.
 
OK, I haven't seen Heavy Duty on any T6 jug, just that Deisel engine word crap. So if that will work I will go with that. Sorry for the long winded asking but I wasn't sure.

I have used GTX 10-40 in my dirt machines and no clutch issues at all.
 
Dont those same manuals say to use a certain brand of oils/chemicals?
Have you seen what Yamaha wants for torque on the rear axle nut?
Dont the manuals say to use "only genuine XYZ parts"?

Im sure that there are other areas where you have strayed. :nono:

Again, if you havent tried it and experienced problems, then maybe add that little tidbit in with your advise. :blowing_kisses:

Seriously, I dont care what you use. Im not intending to start an arguement. I keep trying different things, and have ever since I started riding 30 yrs ago. I am just trying to have a free exchange of ideas. :rmwl:
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top