Official YZF Makeover Thread

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The two red arrows indicate the broken bolts. The green arrow is the one that came out with no issue. The red arrow on the top left is the one that has the tap stuck in it. I'll bring the camera down with me tomorrow so I can snap some pictures when I get home.
 
bare with me because I am not very familiar with this set up.

Do the bolts completely penetrate the plenum they are on?

If so Did you completly drill out the old bolt full penetration?

Now without looking is you tap only fluted on two sides for debre cleanout or 3 sided?

If you answered 2 then find or grind a pair of needle nose pliers into a form of spanner or snap ring plier look so that the tips fit into the 2 groves for the debre cleanout on the tap. Once you get a decent fit. Get a "Map gas" hand held tourch and heat up the surounding of the hole where the tap is stuck once you have it hot enough use the needle nose pliers to back out the bolt. A good penetraing lube with help.

If you dont get what Im saying let me know and Ill work on my verbal description a bit. It is hard for me to type what Im thinking.
 
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Sorry to hear Billy. Drilling a tap out sucks!

Do you have a dremel and a grinding stone for it? Try and flatten the top of the tap first so you can center punch it then start the drilling. Also see if you can find some left-handed drill bits. Often when drilling with these, it will catch on and back the tap right out for you, especially if you go slowly once the initial hole is created. ;)
 
Earlzach said:
bare with me because I am not very familiar with this set up.

Do the bolts completely penetrate the plenum they are on?

If so Did you completly drill out the old bolt full penetration?

Now without looking is you tap only fluted on two sides for debre cleanout or 3 sided?

If you answered 2 then find or grind a pair of needle nose pliers into a form of spanner or snap ring plier look so that the tips fit into the 2 groves for the debre cleanouton the tap. Once you get a decent fit. Get a "Map gas" hand held tourch and heat up the surounding of the hole where the tap is stuck once you have it hot enough use the needle nose pliers to back out the bolt. A good penetraing lube with help.

If you dont get what Im saying let me know and Ill work on my verbal description a bit. It is hard for me to type what Im thinking.
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If I remember correctly the tap was "three sided" and it didn't break "clean" or with a flat smooth break. It "splintered" laterally which sucks for me. I tried to see if I could reinsert the tap back in the hole with it's broken counterpart but when I snapped I guess it was twisted as well because I can't get it to fit back in tightly enough. I was hoping to be able to get a pair of vise grips on the protruding section and back it out but the protrusion snapped off as well. That's why I'm thinking that with a quality Colbalt Drill Bit, I'd be able to drill it out. Trust me, the tap WAS NOT the best brand which will be my saving grace..........maybe. Thanks for the help buddy! I'll call you tomorrow if I get stuck, if you don't mind of course.
 
Of course I dont mind.

If you can get a drift pin the size ot the hole just inside the threads and heat the hell out of the area around the hole then drive it through. Then drill up and helicoil it. or drill up and make one SAE.
 
I had one of the bolts break on mine as well when I was initially removing the valve. If I remember correctly not all three bolt holes are blind. I think a couple of them actually go into the exhaust collector and those are probably the ones that broke.

I wouldn't chance it with only two bolts Billy. it's not just a matter of holding the valve in, but making sure that there's even pressure on it all around so it doesn't bind as it turns.

You can always drill and tap the holes for 7mm bolts if you had too. The collector where the valve screws on is cast iron so relatively easy to drill and tap...
 
NJFZ1 said:
I had one of the bolts break on mine as well when I was initially removing the valve. If I remember correctly not all three bolt holes are blind. I think a couple of them actually go into the exhaust collector and those are probably the ones that broke.

I wouldn't chance it with only two bolts Billy. it's not just a matter of holding the valve in, but making sure that there's even pressure on it all around so it doesn't bind as it turns.

You can always drill and tap the holes for 7mm bolts if you had too. The collector where the valve screws on is cast iron so relatively easy to drill and tap...
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Well, I'm at work and I managed to drill through the second bolt with no problem and reamed it with a #7 bit. When I get home I will tap it out for the 1/4-20 cap screws which I have already. Then I'll install the cover back on with the two good screws, move up 1/4" from the broken tap, and drill through a brand new hole, tap it, and I'm done.
 
Awesome build and restoration! It is amazing how people can let their machines become so "run down", and unfortunately I have even been at fault of this before. Great job and I look forward to the finished product :cheers:
 
spn4125 said:
Awesome build and restoration! It is amazing how people can let their machines become so "run down", and unfortunately I have even been at fault of this before. Great job and I look forward to the finished product :cheers:
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Thanks alot. I think it was just a matter of the previous owner not knowing much about bikes period. I believe he bought it because his neighbors all have bikes. The good think is that I was able to get it for just 2 Grand with 11,000 original miles so I think I came out on top.
 
Okay, so I brought the headers to work to give it a go at getting out the tap but it was impossible! Even though it was a cheaper brand of tap, it still was too hard to get out. We tried inserting two nails on either side of the "gaps" and then trying to back it out using vise grips but it was to no avail.
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So I came home this evening to tap out the remaining hole with a quality tap and brought with me a few 1/4-20 cap screws.
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The tap worked perfectly and before long she was threaded just perfect!
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I know that Tony was concerned about having one less screw but after fitting the valve back in and bolting the two bolts down tight, the valve works perfectly with no binding. I tried to pull either way on the assembly and it wouldn't budge. I'm confident that the valve, even with the cables hooked up, will work fine with no binding at all. Once it's in place for the final time, I will mix up a batch of JB Weld and fill the hole and overfill it so that it makes a "head" or "button" on top and let it cure, making it a makeshift rivet if you understand what I'm saying. If I ever have to remove it again I would only have to chisel off the "button" I made and pop it off.
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I only have to drill out the cover bolts which two were broken and tap those as well. Those shouldn't be an issue at all. Then I'll sand down the pipes and spray it with the header paint and that will be that. If I ever come across a decent EXUP Valve on Ebay I could always just switch it out again.

I installed the stand that my buddy Sal fabbed up for me which will support the upper frame so that I can remove the rear shock and not have the bike collapse onto the swingarm. Then I'll clean the shock, remove the swingarm to inspect and grease the bearings, and get everything back together.
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The Partshark order came to work today with the exception of my add-ons, Bar Ends, Front Cover Gasket, and some misc. bolts that I picked up. I called and they said it should go out shortly. At least all my fork parts are here, the front sprocket lock washer, fuel filter, and fork oil.
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So I'll try and get into the garage tomorrow after work, and all day Saturday. Things should start going back together real soon!
 
Well I'm still concerned about the EXUP valve with only two bolts. Remember when the exhaust heats up things will expand and move round a bit. I would replace the other screw with a ss steel one as well. Put a nice coating of anti-seize on all the threads.
 
NJFZ1 said:
Well I'm still concerned about the EXUP valve with only two bolts. Remember when the exhaust heats up things will expand and move round a bit. I would replace the other screw with a ss steel one as well. Put a nice coating of anti-seize on all the threads.
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Oh definitely. I use anti-seize on all the bolts for the exhaust system as well as the spark plugs. Why many people don't do that is beyond me. It only takes a second to do.

I'm telling you Tony, if you were here and felt the assembly all bolted together, you wouldn't be concerned at all. I'm going to use HiTemp RTV to seal the assembly before I bolt it down. I pulled on the pulley with much more force than the cables would ever exert on it and it moves nice and fluid. Not to mention that at least three guys are parting out parts for the YZF right now on Ebay and I have emails to all of them to see if they will sell me the Valve Assembly. If I get lucky I'll just swap it out. I can't wait until tomorrow afternoon so I can get started!

The tires unfortunately have to wait because the guy I use isn't working this Saturday which really sucks because I wanted to get it into a "roller" by the end of the weekend. The other local guy wants $50 bucks EACH to only remove the old tire and install the new one with NO balancing!! I asked him if his tire machine was made from solid gold!!! I think I'll remove the crappy Dunlops myself with that "Cable Tie" method so that my guy will only have to mount the new ones.
 
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