New guy here, Big fixer upper!

Hello everyone, I just got a 02 fzr1000. Almost any and everything electrical is wrong with it and has already been bypassed by old owner. Might you guys lend me a hand?
Neutral light always on
Can start in any gear, clutch in or out, kick stand down or not.
I have randomly cut wires all over.
Misfires at idle.
idle starts at 2k then climbs too 4k after heating up. still with a misfire if i'm not applying any throttle myself.
Needs new clutch is slipping around 8k at full throttle, any tips for brand?
The fuel pump didn't work through the system so it got hard wired. I really hate hooking and un hooking that connection!
I'm pretty good with tools have rebuilt a few car.
But I've also had brain surgery. I really have a hard time visualizing things so any photo's really help.

Yes the photo is a few days old i've removed the horrid silver speakers.
 

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I have no idea why someone would cut all the wires. Unless he was trying to diagnose a system problem and couldn't find it, gave up and sold you the mess. You could start with a service manual schematic and try to locate all the connections and put them back them back together. Or get used looms from Ebay and start over.
I think you will need to address the wiring issues before tackling something else.

Misfires at idle. - poor coil, poor connection, poor wires, spark plugs. If these are OEM they could be just worn out. It is after all a 21-year-old bike. Regardless of mileage things wear out out. Carbs need to be checked and cleaned. Valves need to be checked for clearances. Sync the carbs they need to be correct. Choke sounds like it is sticking on. The TPS sensor on the left side of the carb bank could be faulty or not set correctly. Do the carbs have a jet kit installed?
 
Used wiring harnesses aren't that expensive. Looks to have pods on the carbs. Could be that it has a Holeshot stage 2 jet kit but those don't look like the pods Dale recommended. I'd try to get it as close to stock as you can. OEM clutch plates would be my recommendation. Anything with heavy springs becomes a chore to pull the clutch lever in.
 
Yes my guess is it would stall at take off due too either the kickstand switch or the neutral sensor was messing up. So he just started disconnecting shit. I just found a new set of wires I thought feed in too the oil pan no that's just where the cut end was resting lol. I'm currently working on the oil/water pump rebuild. Is going well took a small army too get the seals out.
 

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I think it's a bit more than just choke. When taking off my headers I noticed one of the 4 pipes inlets was a diff color. White ish so wanna tear down the carbs then I can fix the choke when throwing it back on.
Could have a leaking head gasket as well another reason for discoloration.
 
So i'm really not sure what is done too this bike, The hoses that connect 2 carbs together from air inlet are cut n caped, also between the carbs and the block its self the lil 45 degree elbo's also have a small 1/4 inch-ish tubes running out that are capped can anyone please enlighten me what they are and is there any reason too fix or is it nothing? The bike has exup deleted and aftermarket exhuast.
 


Just covered in this thread, read to end.

Never mind I'm confusing hoses.
 
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#3 on all four carb intakes should be plugged with black rubber cap held on with flex clamp #4. You need them. Or cylinders will burn lean if missing. You also need to remove them for the carb sync process.
 
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Page 7-3 of OEM manual has good diagram of the parts with better description of their function

#60 and #61 are coolant hoses that can be omitted if the coolant bypass has been completed. I left mine on, they're empty and just left in place.

See link in post 10 above for coolant bypass discussion
 
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#7 and #8 keep #65 in place and prevent it from tipping over forward. #65 need to be higher than diaphragm #15. Those are all parts you can probably find on ebay. a lot of ebay sellers sell the carbs minus all the hoses.
 
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