DonnieBee
Well-Known Member
Got tye part odered overnite locally so I can ride this weekend. So now I am going to pu oup hte pics on the thread.
Help?
Help?
Neutral light not coming on and bike shut down on freeway once...
- Thread starter DonnieBee
- Start date
DonnieBee
Well-Known Member
steps for removing Neutral Sensor from FZ1
Here are the photos of My project removing and replacing the Neutral Sensor on my FZ1. Not sure how to caption them yet, so I will do what I can once I see how they go into the thread. Sorry as I am new at this.+-+++++
Here are the photos of My project removing and replacing the Neutral Sensor on my FZ1. Not sure how to caption them yet, so I will do what I can once I see how they go into the thread. Sorry as I am new at this.+-+++++
DonnieBee
Well-Known Member
Ok Here we go...
Photo 1is what the wire leading to the sensor looks like, so you can follow it to the location of the sensor if, like me, you had no idea where the bugger is. The wire is located under the right side cover. (1 Screw Phillips #4)The sensor is located between the coolant overflow bottle and the back of the tranny casing. You will have to loosen the coolant overflow bottle to get at the sensor so do it now (2 - 10mm Bolts right and left.)
Photo 2 is showing that I had to remove the front sprocket cover in order to see the sensor enough to get to it. Now that I KNOW WHERE IT IS exactly, I could probably do this repair without removing this. Its a pain and takes time as you have to remove the left foot peg assembly ( TWO Large Hex Key Bolts) and the shift linkage (1 Small hex key bolt) to get the cover off. I recomnd removing it so that you can see what you are doing from another angle.
Photo 3 is what you will be able to see once you get the cover off. if you look closely you can just see the end of the sensor below that little patch of daylight you see in the center of the picture. Then you have to figure out how to remove the wire from the end of the sensor. It is vey much lik a spark plug wire in the way it attaches. I couldnt get my fingers in far enough so I used a long set of thin needle nose pliers to jimmy it off.
Photo 4 is what you will see if you move the coolant bottle out of the way. There it is. FInally. Now, how to ge at it with a wrench? THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS (as I figured out after several other attempts) is to use your sockets. Attach just about every extension you have, I used two four inchers and an eight incher, then attach the swivel attachment to that as your angle will really be bad, then use a 14mm long socket. LOOSEN NORMALLY (COUNTERCLOSCKWISE) BUT USE EXTREME CAUTION AND ALL THE FINESSE YOU HAVE. THIS SENSOR IS EASY TO BREAK AS IT IS HOLLOW INSIDE. I BROKE MINE, BUT WAS ABLE TO GET THE BROKEN END OUT. It is a long hollow threaded sleeve with nothing inside.
Good luck and many thanks to VA Rider and the other fellah who chimed in. Couldnt have worked my way through this without
Photo 5 is what it wll look like if you succeed in removing it.
Photo 1is what the wire leading to the sensor looks like, so you can follow it to the location of the sensor if, like me, you had no idea where the bugger is. The wire is located under the right side cover. (1 Screw Phillips #4)The sensor is located between the coolant overflow bottle and the back of the tranny casing. You will have to loosen the coolant overflow bottle to get at the sensor so do it now (2 - 10mm Bolts right and left.)
Photo 2 is showing that I had to remove the front sprocket cover in order to see the sensor enough to get to it. Now that I KNOW WHERE IT IS exactly, I could probably do this repair without removing this. Its a pain and takes time as you have to remove the left foot peg assembly ( TWO Large Hex Key Bolts) and the shift linkage (1 Small hex key bolt) to get the cover off. I recomnd removing it so that you can see what you are doing from another angle.
Photo 3 is what you will be able to see once you get the cover off. if you look closely you can just see the end of the sensor below that little patch of daylight you see in the center of the picture. Then you have to figure out how to remove the wire from the end of the sensor. It is vey much lik a spark plug wire in the way it attaches. I couldnt get my fingers in far enough so I used a long set of thin needle nose pliers to jimmy it off.
Photo 4 is what you will see if you move the coolant bottle out of the way. There it is. FInally. Now, how to ge at it with a wrench? THE BEST WAY TO DO THIS (as I figured out after several other attempts) is to use your sockets. Attach just about every extension you have, I used two four inchers and an eight incher, then attach the swivel attachment to that as your angle will really be bad, then use a 14mm long socket. LOOSEN NORMALLY (COUNTERCLOSCKWISE) BUT USE EXTREME CAUTION AND ALL THE FINESSE YOU HAVE. THIS SENSOR IS EASY TO BREAK AS IT IS HOLLOW INSIDE. I BROKE MINE, BUT WAS ABLE TO GET THE BROKEN END OUT. It is a long hollow threaded sleeve with nothing inside.
Good luck and many thanks to VA Rider and the other fellah who chimed in. Couldnt have worked my way through this without
Photo 5 is what it wll look like if you succeed in removing it.
DonnieBee
Well-Known Member
Got the part in and installed today! Was the perfect fix! Thanks Va Rider!
va_rider
Wizard
Good Job man! it looks like it was a fun fix..
FZ1inTX
Adminstrator
Well done! What a PITA for such a small inexpensive part! Thanks for the write-up and pics!
va_rider
Wizard
I once had to put a starter relay on a BMW 1200LT... you know.. a $3.50 starter relay.... The labor Guide book said it paid 18 hours... it was a bit of a pain in the ass... but it took me 2 hours... how, as someone running a motorcycle shop, was I supposed to charge someone $45 an hour x 18 hours to replace a $3.50 part?
I imagine that replacing this Neutral Safety Switch pays like a champ....