Mine runs fine on all the 87 (or whatever regular gas is) that I have put in it.
Can't tell any difference.
Can't tell any difference.
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Help please 2001 yamaha FZS1000N
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- #82
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
I’ve got kinda a helpful note for anyone who cares, but a little back story
I’m getting ready to seal my tank, like a dumbass I forgot to pull the fuel sender out before I put some good rust removing acid in the tank (rookie mistake) by the time I realized the tank was clean and the fuel sender was garbage, so I went looking, and most places it’s about 160$ for a used one and I couldn’t find any fz1 specific after market ones, and no new ones, but I was able to get the part number, the part number partzilla has is the same as the Yamaha grizzly 600 fuel level sender, which there was one on Amazon for 20 dollars and I figured at that price it was hard to go wrong. I ordered it and it turns out the actual potentiometer is the same between the two fuel senders, only the fuel float and arm are different, so as long as your float and arm are in okay condition, you can just swap them into the new potentiometer.
Here is the link for the part I bought:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0BLVTBKH7?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
I’m getting ready to seal my tank, like a dumbass I forgot to pull the fuel sender out before I put some good rust removing acid in the tank (rookie mistake) by the time I realized the tank was clean and the fuel sender was garbage, so I went looking, and most places it’s about 160$ for a used one and I couldn’t find any fz1 specific after market ones, and no new ones, but I was able to get the part number, the part number partzilla has is the same as the Yamaha grizzly 600 fuel level sender, which there was one on Amazon for 20 dollars and I figured at that price it was hard to go wrong. I ordered it and it turns out the actual potentiometer is the same between the two fuel senders, only the fuel float and arm are different, so as long as your float and arm are in okay condition, you can just swap them into the new potentiometer.
Here is the link for the part I bought:
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B0BLVTBKH7?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
- Thread starter
- #83
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
Question, would the floats being incorrectly set cause the bike to leak fuel out of the vent tube when leaned over?
Possibly, however more likely that a float is stuck open. Have you tried tapping the carbs with a rubber hammer. Can you trace the vent tube to figure out which carb is at fault?
Does it not happen on center stand?
Does it not happen on center stand?
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- #85
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
Nope runs and drives normally as far as I can tell, I leaned it quite a ways over when I was moving it to get into a tight spot and fuel came out of the air box vent, when it put it back up right or on the Center stand it finished dripping and doesn’t seem to drip anymore
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- #86
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
It’s very possible it’s normal with how far I was tipping the bike but I was just worried because I had issues with it pouring fuel out of the vent tube previously
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- #87
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
I have a very very very random question, if the TPS is adjusted incorrectly it would show the wrong rpm right, my bike likes to be "idling" at 2500 rpm and when i set it to 1100 on the gauge it get very unhappy when I apply throttle as it in burps and then slowly revs up but if i set it to 2000 ish rpm as the idle it revs perfectly off of idle, so im wondering if the tps is wrong and im setting it to like 500 rpm when it says 1100 and 1100 at 2000 rpm on the gauge, also I have no way to measure the rpm
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- #88
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
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- #89
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
also if the pilot screw is adjusted incorrectly it would also effect how it idles correct?
Random answer.........
https://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/throttlepositionsensoradjustment.html.
Pat's page shows how to adjust TPS using the procedure in the manual and at the bottom shows how to do it using Ivan's rising rpm method.
If the TPS is adjusted correctly your tach should show 5000 rpm when doing the adjustment (see pat's instructions).
I have loosened my TPS and have moved through the full range of movement while riding and the differences are not very noticeable.
It sounds to me like what your bike needs is a carb balance after adjusting the TPS to the manual or Ivan's method. Unfortunately carb balance tool is about $100 (Carb Tune) or you can find some old mercury tubes (they suck for the environment). Did you clean/rebuild your carbs? If you haven't cleaned the carbs that could be part of the problem.
You might be able to find a small bike shop willing to balance the carbs for you.
see also https://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/carburetorsynchronization.html
I'll tell you up front finding those balance screws on the carbs is a bear, It's best to use three individual screwdrivers already plugged into the adjustment screws before starting the process. Also use a powerful small led flashlight to find them.
Good answer and I'll add that I bought some super long screwdrivers for this task and have never regretted it. Makes adjusting the screws easy.
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- #92
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
Ok another question, while waiting for my carb sync tool I took my bike for a rip and while riding it was all running good as I had set the idle higher, but I pulled up to a stop sign at one point and some steam came out of the front of the bike and I could see any visual issue so I just headed for home and by the time I got home this hose had blow apart, about a 1 inch hole in it. It blow number 27 which is this hose. So I’m wondering if it’s this is because it was just and old faulty hose and so I have a replacement one but I don’t wanna blow it if there is a known reason that it would do this, I didn’t notice that the temp light came on or anything so idk if the bike was over heating or anything but it seemed to be running pretty good
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Can't think of any reason other than it was old or some road debris hit it. I'd just replace it and the coolant.
I've replaced most of mine over the years but not #27 yet.
I've replaced most of mine over the years but not #27 yet.
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- #94
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
yeah that was kinda my dad and I's thought as he Does AFA (advanced failure analysis) and his only other thought of why it could do that is a blown headgasket and it letting cylinder pressure thought the water jackets and into the pump but it doesn't smoke and I have heard these engines are pretty difficult to blow headgaskets on
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- #95
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
welp changed the hose and no issues since , I was gonna tune the carbs but the amazon gauges I got kind of died but before they died they were reading about 100 mm and it says it needs to be about 200 in the manual would that change how the it acts at idle if they are synced together but are synced at to low of a pressure
I have the carbtune, and it uses stainless steel rods instead of the mercury. I paid about $100 for it , but that was 15 years ago. Great tool to have, and will last.
I have seen a lot of people that have tried to get all of the cylinders up to xxx mm because the book had the value listed. Some ended up trying to get the "right" values and ended up turning screws too much and getting into trouble. I only looked for balancing them to each other. I didn't pay any attention to the actual values I was seeing. Maybe when you sync, pick the highest or second highest value you see and adjust the rest to match that one and call it a day. My Gen I ran great, and having them all sync'd together made the bike run smoother.
Sound advice.......Get em all as close to the same as you can. If you loosen the balancing screws too far it's possible to have the balance spring(s) fall out.
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- #98
Melholcik
Well-Known Member
Hmmm strange then because they looked synced up but it still won’t idle at 1100
It sounds like the sync likely wasn't the issue. How many turns out are the mixture screws? The "correct" settings may vary some. With the Holeshot jet kit, mine were set at 3.5 turns out and it was great. I think Ivan kits want to see closer to 5 turns, but I wouldn't want to go beyond 5 turns out. you don't want the screws to fall out. If it's "bogging" at low RPM, it may be running rich at the bottom. Are the pilot jets the stock sizes? Unfortunately, that means pulling carbs to find out.
Maybe try setting all the mixture screws to 2 turns out and give it a test ride. then back out 1/2 turn and see what the difference is... etc.
If you can't get it there with the mixture screw settings, maybe pilot jets could be something to look into. Are they the correct size, maybe partially clogged... Do the throttle slides go all the way down so that you can see about 1/2 of the curved edge of the slide from the carb throat with the throttle closed? If they go too far down or not far enough, that could just be a throttle cable adjustment.
Maybe try setting all the mixture screws to 2 turns out and give it a test ride. then back out 1/2 turn and see what the difference is... etc.
If you can't get it there with the mixture screw settings, maybe pilot jets could be something to look into. Are they the correct size, maybe partially clogged... Do the throttle slides go all the way down so that you can see about 1/2 of the curved edge of the slide from the carb throat with the throttle closed? If they go too far down or not far enough, that could just be a throttle cable adjustment.