Help please 2001 yamaha FZS1000N

that's the starting relay one but there is a starting cutoff relay in the manual and i'm wondering what that one is, btw thanks for all the help you don't know how helpful its been
 
It's confusing to find that component.

Page 8-1 of OEM manual shows it under the left side cover. Page 8-20 shows it as having 8 or 9 wires going into it. The black electrical connector under the left cover (hangs on clip). They don't give those away. Mine is marked 5EB-81950-20 which you can search on Ebay/ web.

If you only knew someone near by with a Gen 1 so you could momentarily swap it out. You've gone thru the checklist for trouble shooting on 8-19.......... the engine shut off switch (right handle bar) is on?
 
update I replaced the relay part, it’s called many different names no idea what it really does but it was what was stopping the bike from cranking, final issue hopefully is that there is a little nozzle on the right side of the rad facing the back of the bike and I’m not sure what it does IMG_1220.jpeg
 
Melholcik said:
update I replaced the relay part, it’s called many different names no idea what it really does but it was what was stopping the bike from cranking, final issue hopefully is that there is a little nozzle on the right side of the rad facing the back of the bike and I’m not sure what it does
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Could you post the p/n and a pic of said relay for those of us who want to add one to our tool kit ?
 
I think I have two final questions, those being; 1 is there any way to get exactly 1100rpm at idle or is eyeballing it close enough and 2 do the generators on the 2001 bikes tend to die, ive noticed that it dosen't charge a huge amount at idle at least visually or is that just normal that it has to be at a higher rpm to charge
 
Melholcik said:
I think I have two final questions, those being; 1 is there any way to get exactly 1100rpm at idle or is eyeballing it close enough and 2 do the generators on the 2001 bikes tend to die, ive noticed that it dosen't charge a huge amount at idle at least visually or is that just normal that it has to be at a higher rpm to charge
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Yea any where from 900 to 1200 should be close enough. Carb balance will help it not bounce around. Full charge doesn't occur till above 3000 rpm. At 4000 rpms your multimeter should be at close to 14v across battery depending on battery's state of charge. Near idle it would be closer to 12.8.
 
Melholcik said:
I think I have two final questions, those being; 1 is there any way to get exactly 1100rpm at idle or is eyeballing it close enough and 2 do the generators on the 2001 bikes tend to die, ive noticed that it dosen't charge a huge amount at idle at least visually or is that just normal that it has to be at a higher rpm to charge
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I have the tft screen and i can tell you that my bike (2005) that IMO runs perfect has a idle hunt of 40 rpms right around 1100 rpms. It also only charges 10.2 at idle but once above idle(1500+) ive seen as high as 14.2 charging. I have eliminated the white connector. Battery is 3 years old.
 
For the RPM's, I've used a digital hour meter / tach thing from my old MX days. Wrap wire around the #1 plug wire and it shows actual RPM on the bike.
On MY bike, the stock tach shows about 100 RPM higher than the little digital unit shows. So I set it between the 1000 and 1500 mark ( 1250 ish) and just ride.
 
I’ve got 1 last question and then I think she will be peachy, the fork seal are barely leaking, to the point I normally wouldn’t do anything about them but now I’m curious, can you replace the seals without completely disassembled the forks, like is it possible to pull them from the bike and remove and replace the seals without even removing the top nuts on the suspension
 
Melholcik said:
I’ve got 1 last question and then I think she will be peachy, the fork seal are barely leaking, to the point I normally wouldn’t do anything about them but now I’m curious, can you replace the seals without completely disassembled the forks, like is it possible to pull them from the bike and remove and replace the seals without even removing the top nuts on the suspension
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Yes you can. And you should do it quickly before your brake pads get soiled in fork oil. Ask me how i know.
 
Melholcik said:
so funny story, brake pads were soaked in oil, is there any videos or explanations on how to replace the pads
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I tried to heat the oil out of my hh pads. Didnt work. Im pretty sure it took out the brake light switch and integrity of the master when i did a series of gnarly stops. Brake pads that make no friction are a unique situation.

Theres probably just shy of 900 videos on youtube that'll show you the way.
 
bunk said:
Yes you can. And you should do it quickly before your brake pads get soiled in fork oil. Ask me how i know.
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So I've been following this thread......

Today I went for a ride down to Conn. but as the bike was warming up I noticed a little oil on the left fork leg. Wiped it off and made a mental note to keep my eye on it. When I got to the Conn state line looked down and now there is more oil than before. So flipped around and limped home after wrapping a piece of paper towel around it.

Made it home without getting any oil on the front brake pads or rotors. Checked my basket of spare Yamaha parts and found two new oil seals and dust caps.

I've got everything back together again after four hours. Should be nice enough tomorrow to get in a ride to check things out. Got the old seal out without dis-assembly of fork leg. Have a short piece of plastic tube that is just the right size for pushing the seal down into place. Got that retaining ring in, but not truly happy that it is fully into its grove. Will find out tomorrow.
 
Isleoman said:
So I've been following this thread......

Today I went for a ride down to Conn. but as the bike was warming up I noticed a little oil on the left fork leg. Wiped it off and made a mental note to keep my eye on it. When I got to the Conn state line looked down and now there is more oil than before. So flipped around and limped home after wrapping a piece of paper towel around it.

Made it home without getting any oil on the front brake pads or rotors. Checked my basket of spare Yamaha parts and found two new oil seals and dust caps.

I've got everything back together again after four hours. Should be nice enough tomorrow to get in a ride to check things out. Got the old seal out without dis-assembly of fork leg. Have a short piece of plastic tube that is just the right size for pushing the seal down into place. Got that retaining ring in, but not truly happy that it is fully into its grove. Will find out tomorrow.
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I attempted to do mine without putting it apart completely, but I think they were the original seals so no matter what I did I couldn’t pull it out from the top so I ended up pulling them apart and cleaning them end to end
 
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