I finally installed the gear indicator. Of course, you do not have to "cut into the wiring" but I am reluctant to use the plastic splices because they tend to work for a while then become intermittent.
I ended up stripping a short length of the wires I wanted to connect to and solder a pigtail harness to a DA-9 connector. The mate of the DA-9 is connected to the GI.
I did this at the connections under the left fairing insert (picture attached)
I have attached the pinouts for the two connectors going to the fairing harness:

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Then I protected the solder joints with electrical tape.
I have annotated the schematic diagram with pin functions.

I tapped the wires as indicated:
tach: Connector B, Y/B
speedo: Connector B, W
neutral: Connector A, Sb/Y
+12V: Connector A, L/Y
Ground: Connector A, B
I had a hard time getting the device to calibrate. I looked at the speedo and tach signals with an oscilloscope and they are a little noisy. I suppose the noise is confusing the device. At the moment, it is calibrated but it took much longer than I think it should have. I may try to put some filtering to see if that makes it easier. Otherwise, it seems to be working fine. It reports a gear change practically instantly (if there is a delay, it is shorter than my brain realizes).
Important note: when I plugged the device the first time, it did not power up. I took it in the shack and powered it from a bench supply. The current consumption was very low and I could see some of the LED segments flashing very dimly. I wrote to the ebay seller to ask him what to do, expecting he would send me away since I bought the gizmo in October. He replied quickly saying he was going to send me another one and did not ask me to send this one back. Since I had nothing to lose, I took it apart. It turns out that the device is fairly well made, except for the soldering of the 7 segment display, which was extremely poor. After touching up the solder joints to the 7 segment display, the device powered just fine. It is possible that the calibration difficulties come from more bad solder joints, but other than the display, everything else is surface mounted and the soldering on that looks fine. Alternately, it may be that they skimped on filtering of the tach and speedo signals. I cannot imagine that they would skimp on anything that sells for $19 with shipping from China...