What did you do to your Non-FZ1 motorcycle today.

DenArnold said:
I guess some exercises will be repeated several times :)

•Motorcycle Dynamics
•Adjusting the Motorcycle to the Rider
•Balance Exercise
•Proper lifting of a downed Motorcycle
•Rider Position on the Motorcycle for off-road
•Enduro Steering
•Warm-up on Motorcycle drill
•Slow Riding
•Riding in a circle
•Proper lifting of a downed Motorcycle
•Navigating Figure-8's with balance & clutch control
•Proper lifting of a downed Motorcycle
•Proper riding technique for Washboards
•Proper lifting of a downed Motorcycle
•Proper body position for Camel Humps
•Proper foot peg weighing for Ruts
•Emergency stopping on a hill
Proper lifting of a downed Motorcycle
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It is a beginner class. I think that was intended to be humorous. lol
 
Welded on the left side plate.

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Ground all the paint.

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AND DAMNIT, bondo sucks. Definitely not going to work with my little 80 grit block.

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Hail said:
Does that mean you are going to a 180?
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I went with the earlier round spoke 5 inch wheel. Stock is 4.5 and a little narrow for a 160. I want to run 160 but on a width rim so its profile is not distorted. I think the 180 is overkill on a 60hp bike and really offers no benefit and slower side to side transitions and thats what this bike is all about. I do like the look of the square spokes over the round its just to wide at 5.5 inches
 
I busted the front tire on the DRZ when I took a jump a little too far. :D The front tire clipped the curb and bent the rim. I finally found a replacement for a reasonable price.


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Spare? Perhaps. The stock bars will bend if you dump it hard enough. Aftermarket bars are a LOT stronger. I've crashed my DR650 and KLX250S quite hard several times and have yet to bend them.

Before you get new bars, decide if you want to stick with 7/8" bars or go with Fat bars (1-1/8"). The only advantage is not needing the cross-bar. I have fat bars on the DR650 and regular bars on the KLX. If I had it to do again, I'd do Fat bars on the KLX too... the main reason I didn't is because I already had a set of regular-bar handguard mounts and didn't want to have to buy another set ($40).

Also decide if I you want to go taller by adding risers. I've raised the bars on both bikes about 4" over stock. Makes it a lot more comfy when standing, and even when sitting because I'm less likely to slouch.

If your DRZ is like my DR, you can reroute your clutch and throttle cables so you don't have to get longer ones like I did with the KLX.

To stay on-topic... what did I do it today? Well, after work today, I'm swapping stiffer fork springs into a new set of forks for my KLX, and then installing them. I scored a set of used ones that already had RaceTech Gold Valves installed.

Rob
 
Oh btw... do you have hand guards yet? If not, get some before your class. They will help protect your levers from snapping when you drop the bike. If you can't get them in time, then get at least one spare lever for each side so you can replace them after the class.

I use Barkbuster Storm handguards on my bikes... they're decent quality for about $100 for the set. If you have money to burn and want the BEST, check out the HDB (Highway Dirt Bike) guards. VERY nicely done; you can also get them with integrated flip-out mirrors.

Rob
 
I wished I could say more but all I have done with my bike since the day we all got together over in PA was put a new back tire on it. I have rode 40 total miles since that day!
I suck!
 
Here is the new contact patch. Or as I use it for a way to mark my territory.lol
I hope this one dont wear its self out like the last one did.:dontknow:
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