What did you do to your Non-FZ1 motorcycle today.

Tonight I'm get my Tuono and trailer ready for a trip to Tulsa Saturday morning. I'm getting the coolant manifold recall done, the ECU flashed with the newest RACE flash, and while she's the shop the oil changed.

With the a shop is working on the bike my son and I will try out a skateboard park in the area.

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On the last few days of the trip the 990 was hitting the overheat point if I wasn't moving, but was otherwise fine. The fans would come on (I installed a second fan before last years trip) but not soon enough or long enough. On the way home from work on Monday they would not come on at all.

I tested the thermostatic switch (at the plug end) with a multimeter and it was getting power. Then I jumpered the two ends (with a small piece of wire) to simulate the on position and both fans worked as they should.

Considering that the bike cooled as it should if it was moving I could logically assume that both the water pump and the thermostat (different from the thermostatic switch in the rad) were working just fine and circulating the coolant.

I ordered the parts just before they closed and had them air-freight them in (2 days). I then started the BIG job of stripping the bike down to the point I could do the work needed. I would have to remove both tanks both upper fairings and the skid plate and center console (as well as seat) of course.

I would need to drain the coolant to replace the switch, so I figured I would flush and replace it while I was at it. The oil & filter was getting done at the same time.

I had just filled the tanks that morning on the way to work, so as I was removing the left tank (there are 3 breather hoses, 2 electrical connections and the main fuel line on a quick disconnect) I had the tank slip. I managed to break the quick disconnect just as I was pushing the tab to release it. By the time I phoned to add that part to the list the shop had gone home for the day. It was added to the list the next morning and made the flight.

I spent the rest of the week's evenings cleaning up the dusty bike in places I don't normally have access to. While I was in that deep I replaced the air filter and cleaned the throttle bodies.

I drained and flushed the coolant out with distilled water in preparation for the parts coming in and changed the oil & filter & both filter screens. That was probably the best drain of oil (over 24 hour period) the bike has ever had.

Once the switch was back in the rad, I jacked the front end way up (as per KTM manual) and slowly refilled the coolant using the new Bel-Ray Moto Chill (looks like engine ice), and bled it.

With the bike in "wheelie" position I reassembled it enough to run it and tested my work, making sure there was no air in the cooling system, and that the fans did actually work as they should. Satisfied with my work, I finished the reassembly and road tested.

Hey, it gave me something to do in the evening, but damn are my fingers sore! Big hands and small places (on machines) do not mesh well. I know a shop would not take the time to do the clean up like I did, and I couldn't afford them if they did.
 
Normally I do a clutch reservoir flush / bleed when I do an oil change, but missed it last time. The 990's use a Magura hydraulic system with a tiny reservoir. The clutch slaves have been known to fail due to wear,and failure of the "O" ring in the slave cylinder. Most of the time this is due to old contaminated fluid, and the particulates in it, which is why I change mine so regularly.

When I do it, I reverse bleed the slave and connecting line, using a 20m syringe, after first using a vacuum pump to drain the res'. Using this method seems to waste less fluid (mineral oil) and clean the system out better,and faster. Being careful filling the syringe and making sure there is no air in it (tap out the air bubbles just like in the medical shows) and you don't have to worry about any air in the system this way.

The process would work on any bike with a similar system. A couple of notes during the process; I loosen the bolt that holds the (clutch res', clutch lever, left mirror) to handlebar and rotate it to the level position. I place a towel under it to collect any drips and keep it off the rest of the bike. When returning it to the normal position when the job is completed i do not completely tighten the bolt. It should be like this for both sides; tight enough that normal use of the levers won't move the mounts, but loose enough that if you use both hands (or crash) that the lever mount will move, rather than snap off.

Next time I'll take pictures or video.
 
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Ended my season

Determined beyond a doubt the the 990 is eating coolant. After overheating several times on my trip due to a failed thermostatic switch, it now is consuming coolant. Not enough to smoke, nor pressure up the system, but sadly undeniable. I put dye in the coolant, and changed the rad cap to eliminate water pump seal and faulty rad cap, but there is only one place the coolant could be going. This means a complete top end tear down and lots of money. With a one bike garage it also means my season is done. I,ll take her out in the morning for one last run, then it gets stripped down. Then I have to price out a total rebuild, and decide whether or not to just do a gasket replacement (the base and heads both have to be done at the same time) or while in that deep, do the barrels, pistons, rings, bearings, valve seats, cam chains, and have a completely new motor. If I didn't truly love this bike (can't think of one I'd rather have as my only bike) then this would be the end of the line for it. What this will cost would buy a DRZ, but that isn't what I want. So much for a new bike this winter, I guess I'll have to settle for a new motor. Aarrrgggg!!
 
Oldschool said:
Determined beyond a doubt the the 990 is eating coolant. After overheating several times on my trip due to a failed thermostatic switch, it now is consuming coolant. Not enough to smoke, nor pressure up the system, but sadly undeniable. I put dye in the coolant, and changed the rad cap to eliminate water pump seal and faulty rad cap, but there is only one place the coolant could be going. This means a complete top end tear down and lots of money. With a one bike garage it also means my season is done. I,ll take her out in the morning for one last run, then it gets stripped down. Then I have to price out a total rebuild, and decide whether or not to just do a gasket replacement (the base and heads both have to be done at the same time) or while in that deep, do the barrels, pistons, rings, bearings, valve seats, cam chains, and have a completely new motor. If I didn't truly love this bike (can't think of one I'd rather have as my only bike) then this would be the end of the line for it. What this will cost would buy a DRZ, but that isn't what I want. So much for a new bike this winter, I guess I'll have to settle for a new motor. Aarrrgggg!!
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Certainly you don't need a new motor? The bike is what 2 years old? The wear and tear is "normal" for a bike of this type isn't it? If you really need a motor I would be talking to KTM headquarters?

If not... what? you buy another new motor two years from now?
 
Ugh. Sorry to hear about the issue.

Today I rebuilt the RZ front wheel again and I think the fork legs are tweaked. The gap between the legs is too narrow for the wheel.

Tomorrow I'll rotate the legs and in theory the wheel should fit. What a pita this bike is.

I'm also very limited by a bad case of tennis elbow i've had since March. It really slowed me down.

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still in shock

Hail said:
Certainly you don't need a new motor? The bike is what 2 years old? The wear and tear is "normal" for a bike of this type isn't it? If you really need a motor I would be talking to KTM headquarters?

If not... what? you buy another new motor two years from now?
Click to expand...

The bike is 4 years old, ( was a year old when I bought it) and now has 67,000 km, 54,000 of which I put on. These motors have gone well over 100,000 miles before rebuild, but overheating can warp a head surface enough to compromise a gasket. Not really the manufactures fault when an accesory (thermostatic switch) fails and bike overheats. Labour is estimated at 20 hours, plus parts, totaling aprox.$3500.00

Dustin said:
I'm in disbelief. That really seems unreasonable for such a new bike.

Keep us posted!
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You are used to Japanese reliability. I doubt they would be cheaper to fix, if they had the same issue out of warranty. Look how complex the new Super Tenere is. I will keep you posted for certain.

Hellgate said:
Ugh. Sorry to hear about the issue.

Today I rebuilt the RZ front wheel again and I think the fork legs are tweaked. The gap between the legs is too narrow for the wheel.

Tomorrow I'll rotate the legs and in theory the wheel should fit. What a pita this bike is.

I'm also very limited by a bad case of tennis elbow i've had since March. It really slowed me down.

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Click to expand...

Thanks. Holding a baby won't help the elbow, but some pain is worth it. Looking forward to seeing the RZ's progress, problems and all.
 
Until a couple of weeks ago I couldn't turn a doorknob. I've been through PT, but a week of traveling has messed it up again. I've taken oral steroids, subcutaneous steroids, and 4 Airrosti treatments. It is better but not 100%. I'm going to give it 4 more weeks of PT then I'll try T-Cell treatment.

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Oldschool said:
The bike is 4 years old, ( was a year old when I bought it) and now has 67,000 km, 54,000 of which I put on. These motors have gone well over 100,000 miles before rebuild, but overheating can warp a head surface enough to compromise a gasket. Not really the manufactures fault when an accesory (thermostatic switch) fails and bike overheats. Labour is estimated at 20 hours, plus parts, totaling aprox.$3500.00.
Click to expand...

I take it there is no external temp gauge? If not will you add one this time?
 
Finally brought my bike home

I purchased a 'gently used' (crashed) 2003 FZ1 on July 8th. I took it (via trailer) to a friends house where I've been working on it whenever I had the time. Initially it had broken motor mounts, leaking fork seals, torn seat, broken rear tail piece, under fender, etc... The list is long. I upgraded it from the Stage I (holeshot) that it already had to stage II w/pods, also from Holeshot performance. I added a few rizoma goodies that I picked up for a good price and spent the rest of the time just repairing everything else. It's basically done now with exception of some fine tuning of the carbs. A bit finicky w/the pods on there. I have an R6 shock kit but I haven't installed it yet. I wanted to get a feel for how it is first, before the 'upgrade'. Here are a few pictures. If you'd like to see the whole project there is an album link below.

DSC_0602.JPG



DSC_0604.JPG


DSC_0605.JPG


Album
 
Hail said:
I take it there is no external temp gauge? If not will you add one this time?
Click to expand...

There is a temperature gauge, and warning light, and that's how i knew it had got to the overheat stage. On a tight trail there is only so much you can do, either shut it down just before, and there is always a heat spike after you do that. The other option is to get the bike going faster and move some air through the rad to prevent that, which (according to the gauge) was more effective, and what I did most often. On the trip,the weather was hot, and we did a lot of rough trails, that prevented sustained high speed. When the bike started to overheat was in the last two day of Idaho, andnever when we were on pavement. I was faster on the technicwl stuff, so when it started to get to the overheat stage, I would leave my buddy behind, to get some air through the rad, then stop and shut down when it had cooled enough not to have a big spike in temperature. Apparently, my efforts were not enough.
 
Waltermydoinhere said:
I purchased a 'gently used' (crashed) 2003 FZ1 on July 8th. I took it (via trailer) to a friends house where I've been working on it whenever I had the time. Initially it had broken motor mounts, leaking fork seals, torn seat, broken rear tail piece, under fender, etc... The list is long. I upgraded it from the Stage I (holeshot) that it already had to stage II w/pods, also from Holeshot performance. I added a few rizoma goodies that I picked up for a good price and spent the rest of the time just repairing everything else. It's basically done now with exception of some fine tuning of the carbs. A bit finicky w/the pods on there. I have an R6 shock kit but I haven't installed it yet. I wanted to get a feel for how it is first, before the 'upgrade'. Here are a few pictures. If you'd like to see the whole project there is an album link below.

DSC_0602.JPG



DSC_0604.JPG


DSC_0605.JPG


Album
Click to expand...

You need to add this to the "What did you do to your FZ1 today thread!" Nice bike BTW, I have always been a fan of the silver on silver Gen1.
 
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