What did you do to your FZ today?

One wire I used the tap thing, the other I spliced into one of my relays for switched power. I'm sorry I didn't take pics when the tank was up. Was a very easy install though! Scariest part for me was running through the gears on the center stand. Feels odd lol.
 
bought the belly pan chin fairing thing. it was factory red. so, a little rattle can later, it's black. it's, not as awesome as i expected...but am hoping i'll come around to it eventually
AA7BC138-8212-40F3-A4A9-159E3ECDFC8E_zpsyvkrejzj.jpg
 
Took the bike into Racebike Services to get the geometry reset for the 55 profile rear. So much better to ride now. It was too tippy into corners before. Now it flows again.
 
That's why l have stuck with the 50 profile tyres.
My rear is raised 5mm and the front is lowered 15mm or so.
I'm pretty happy with how she handles atm and don't see the need to change tyre profiles.
 
Dicko said:
Cornering is so much nicer with the 55. You would only need to raise the front 2 to 3mm.
Click to expand...
My R1 forks are around 10 mm shorter than stock and I dropped them another 5mm.
My Penske shock is height adjustable and is set 5mm higher than stock, so I have the same effect of a higher profile rear tyre.
I'm very happy with the set up I have atm, the bike turns easily and still holds a line well.
I don't find it too tippy or nervous at all.
 
The higher profile tire gives you more rubber on the road when leaned over. I have a better feel with the 55 and geometry set right than the 50 with the same geometry. I'd recommend giving it a go.
 
Changed the oil, at the 285 mile mark. Hoping to unstick these pesky clutch plates. I used Mobil 1 4T 10W-40 full synthetic. I'll try it out tomorrow to see if it helps. If not, I guess I'll remove the clutch pack and soak it in some of the left over oil. Tired of waiting a few seconds for the clutch to disengage on a cool engine or blip ping the throttle to set it free.

I know it's new, but still.
 
After blowing two +100 headlights in less than 18 months I've decided to try a pair of these:
H4%20Lights_zpsunxaim04.jpg


Performance and price of LED headlights is now getting better than good incandescent globes and HIDs. LEDs also have the convenience of plug 'n' play so you don't need to wire in transformers like you do with HID.

Ordinarily it would only take a few minutes to change the globes but I want to get some decent before and after comparison pics as I go and, from what I've read, I'll also need to adjust the headlight aim. I think I'll leave the job until Sunday when I can take my time and rig the camera on the bike for the photos.

The incandescent globes only have a theoretical service life of 1,000 hours while the LEDs are supposed to be 30,000 hours. They'll probably outlast the bike and place less load on the alternator doing it.

Bought these off a Hong Kong eBay seller who claims they use quality CREE LEDs.
All In One CREE LED H4 Hi Lo Car Headlight Bulb Conversion Kit 6500K 40W 4500lm | eBay

LEDs lights of this power get pretty warm, hence the cooling units for the ballast on the base. Some LED headlights have the ballast separate from the lamp but I couldn't be bothered finding somewhere to stick them.
 
banzai said:
After blowing two +100 headlights in less than 18 months I've decided to try a pair of these:


Performance and price of LED headlights is now getting better than good incandescent globes and HIDs. LEDs also have the convenience of plug 'n' play so you don't need to wire in transformers like you do with HID.

Ordinarily it would only take a few minutes to change the globes but I want to get some decent before and after comparison pics as I go and, from what I've read, I'll also need to adjust the headlight aim. I think I'll leave the job until Sunday when I can take my time and rig the camera on the bike for the photos.

The incandescent globes only have a theoretical service life of 1,000 hours while the LEDs are supposed to be 30,000 hours. They'll probably outlast the bike and place less load on the alternator doing it.

Bought these off a Hong Kong eBay seller who claims they use quality CREE LEDs.
All In One CREE LED H4 Hi Lo Car Headlight Bulb Conversion Kit 6500K 40W 4500lm | eBay

LEDs lights of this power get pretty warm, hence the cooling units for the ballast on the base. Some LED headlights have the ballast separate from the lamp but I couldn't be bothered finding somewhere to stick them.
Click to expand...

Wow! 6500K from an LED. I can't wait to see the differences between the incandescent bulbs and those.
 
banzai said:
After blowing two +100 headlights in less than 18 months I've decided to try a pair of these:
H4%20Lights_zpsunxaim04.jpg


Performance and price of LED headlights is now getting better than good incandescent globes and HIDs. LEDs also have the convenience of plug 'n' play so you don't need to wire in transformers like you do with HID.

Ordinarily it would only take a few minutes to change the globes but I want to get some decent before and after comparison pics as I go and, from what I've read, I'll also need to adjust the headlight aim. I think I'll leave the job until Sunday when I can take my time and rig the camera on the bike for the photos.

The incandescent globes only have a theoretical service life of 1,000 hours while the LEDs are supposed to be 30,000 hours. They'll probably outlast the bike and place less load on the alternator doing it.

Bought these off a Hong Kong eBay seller who claims they use quality CREE LEDs.
All In One CREE LED H4 Hi Lo Car Headlight Bulb Conversion Kit 6500K 40W 4500lm | eBay

LEDs lights of this power get pretty warm, hence the cooling units for the ballast on the base. Some LED headlights have the ballast separate from the lamp but I couldn't be bothered finding somewhere to stick them.
Click to expand...

Definitely interested in how these turn out. I've replaced all the globes in my house with LED globes and have been waiting for the right price and technology to swap out the bike too. Currently running Narva arctic ice globes in the bike with no issues, if they go, I'll try these.
 
DenArnold said:
Since I take no passenger on my FZ1 (I use the more comfortable upright seated Tiger for that purpose), I have removed both passenger footpegs and installed an R&G Exhaust hanger
Noted I need to use a shorter bolt as it comes too close to the rear arm

Yamaha FZ1-N and FZ1-S Exhaust Hanger EH0038BK

Next project: R1 front forks and brake callipers, rc pump and steel braded brakelines
Click to expand...

Nice! Hey, do a step by step for the forks if your able to Arnold. That would be awesome.
 
I have the R&G hanger, I bought a 3/4" rubber washer from my local autopart store to place the exhaust a bit further out and used the stock nut and bolt to mount it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top