Very strange problem with my Gen II (Updated with pics and info)

The airbox and filter are going to make the biggest difference. IMO. The bike really has no problem at all dealing with just a slip on but its the airbox that totally restricts this thing.

Why not grab your wifes airbox and filter and just go for a ride? That is a pretty simple job and you would know almost immediately. That is what I would do. The bike is setup very lean down low for emissions reasons, so adding more air in the mix down there is no good. Yo speak of having issues around 3500 which would be normal operating RPM range so I am betting that is causing it.

YOU NEED MOAR FUELZ :p
 
PapaGeno21 said:
The airbox and filter are going to make the biggest difference. IMO. The bike really has no problem at all dealing with just a slip on but its the airbox that totally restricts this thing.

Why not grab your wifes airbox and filter and just go for a ride? That is a pretty simple job and you would know almost immediately. That is what I would do. The bike is setup very lean down low for emissions reasons, so adding more air in the mix down there is no good. Yo speak of having issues around 3500 which would be normal operating RPM range so I am betting that is causing it.

YOU NEED MOAR FUELZ :p
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Well, her bike has a K&N and a modded airbox. :( But she ONLY has those mods and no issues what-so-ever. I'll test the coils and if one is questionable, then I'll "borrow" one of hers to test mine. :D
 
At one point I had a very similar setup as you (Lars, Px filter, Slip-on, AIS plugged, cat in tact) before I got my PC3, and I had no issues. Of coarse my slip-on is a different brand and my filter is a different brand but shouldn't be THAT much different, The one big difference though is your cut flies.

If you believe most of our counterparts here and on the other forum, a lot of people run, or have run, this setup successfully (minus the cut flies) without a PC. Just thinking out loud I guess, but if you have stock flies on hand, changing them out is a pretty easy test.

BTW: I assume you tested, ruled out the SpeedoDRD.
 
CrazyBiker said:
Smaller flies really leans out the engine a lot as reported by Ivan
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Andy (whittlebeast) has stated this to me as well. I may put the stock flies back in for now but....

I followed the manual for diag mode and tested the TPS. Ruled out. I was slow enough on the throttle to see it count from 16 to 96, one number at a time and then back down again. No jumps in numbers what-so-ever. I did find there were two error codes. #30 which is the lean angle sensor. That was because of a recent off (minor and no significant damage) and #22 which is the Intake Air Temperature Sensor. I lifted the tank to check to be sure I had it plugged in and it is. I will take the sensor out Friday night and test it for resistance to be sure it is within the 2.21 - 2.69 from the manual. I then cleared the codes and will see if #22 shows back up. I'll also be testing the coils on Friday night.

I have the added benefit of two FZ1 bikes here as my wife is now on an '07 so I can test one of her coils so it is "known good" and swap with any one on my bike that I might find out of tolerance.

If all this checks out, I have to get some funds together and get a Power Commander ASAP. Still going to do this anyway but this is hastening the process I guess. :D
 
PC3 should do it. Keep looking the classifieds on both forums for some used ones - $180-200.

You would probably be fine with a FCE and smaller flies without needing a PC3 as FCE precisely adds fuel just before the flies open.

All those electrical checks are a mega PITA for me. I hate electrical stuff.
 
RATS! You mean I'll be the only one running all the mods without a power commander? Yours ran fine before right? Why all of a sudden?


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Missyl1713 said:
RATS! You mean I'll be the only one running all the mods without a power commander? Yours ran fine before right? Why all of a sudden?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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Still not sure Missy. It started before I did the tune up and sync which I had hopes would put it back to normal but nothing fixed it, and made it worse. After running through the entire diagnostics from the service manual, it is either the Intake Air Temp sensor or just plain "too lean" so I'm going to remove the sensor and test the resistance. I cleared the code so I'll see if that returns. :( If that checks out normal, I'll test the coils next.

I guess I tipped the scales.. If I get the PC then I'm gutting the cat!! May as well take it another step!
 
Ok, tested the sensor. The manual states 2.21 - 2.69 k ohms at 68 degrees but it is 76 degrees here. I get a 1.900 reading. To be sure it is operational, I exhaled on it to raise the temperature a few times. This lowers the resistance and it went to 1.38 then as it starting coming back to room temp, it climbed back to 1.899. I'm going to guess that since it is responding to heat input, it is operation and *would* read within the specified range IF the temp was 68 here.

Another item ruled out UNLESS the 22 error code comes back after being cleared. ;)

*EDIT* Went out and installed the sensor. All the parts are off the bike to allow me to undo just the two tank bolts and lift the tank. I'm going to take a test run after work (Working from home today and just took lunch time). Phil, I also undid the SpeedoDRD and put that back to stock to rule it out once and for all. So, I then started the bike and got it up to 175 degrees temperature then held it pinned at 3500 RPMs for a few minutes. Then I took it to 11.5k for about one minute. 5k for 2 minutes, then shut it down. I went into DIAG mode and check the TPS with it hot... no issues. Ran through the rest of the diags and there's no errors listed so it appears the sensor is OK. I'm trying to think back to see if I had maybe started the bike with it uplugged for any reason.... Maybe?
 
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If you keep getting the #22 error you might be able to find another rider that has the same sensor and simply swap sensors to see if the code follows your sensor or stays with the bike. I do know that a bad sensor can mess up your fueling. I've had it happen with my car.
 
Lonerider59 said:
If you keep getting the #22 error you might be able to find another rider that has the same sensor and simply swap sensors to see if the code follows your sensor or stays with the bike. I do know that a bad sensor can mess up your fueling. I've had it happen with my car.
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;) Just happen to have a spare FZ1 in the garage.... SHHHHHHHH!!!! Don't tell the wife I'm stealing her parts! :tup: :eek5:
 
Question for all of you: If a sensor throws a fault and the ECU registers an error code, does the ECU then ignore the status of that sensor until you A) Replace it and B) Clear the error code on the ECU (regardless of whether the sensor is actually operating or not)?

Seems I have resolved the issue and it is one of two things. I have tested and passed the Intake Air Temperature Sensor and cleared the ECU from the error codes. And, as Phil had suggested, removed the SpeedoDRD. I just got back from about 15 miles of low speed cruising (35 to 45) keeping a steady throttle in the 3 - 4k RPM range. The bike did not sputter, surge, lurch, or falter in any way. So, it was one of these two items for sure. I can verify the SpeedoDRD by reconnecting it but in the interests of sanity, I am not going to do this at this time, maybe next weekend. Color me selfish but I want a week of trouble-free riding in me before I face this monster again! I'm going to button it up tonight and worry about the speedo later. If this starts up again without the SpeedoDRD in place, then I'll check for error code 22 again. Clear it and see if the problem goes away again. If this is the case, I'll just order a new sensor and replace it.... this would ALSO rule out the SpeedoDRD as well. ;)

Lovin' my bike again. :yes:
 
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Ravens are doing great! Not the best for carving because of the profile. The grip is good, just a bit tougher to lean it over with the flatter profile. BUT, we don't have a ton of carving up this was so what I do get, these suffice for now. ;)

So, this was a lean condition just not how we expected it came about. I'd HIGHLY recommend to anyone having any troubles with their Gen II to enter DIAG mode and look for error codes. The service manual does an excellent job of outlining them. Be SURE you have the kill switch in the off/kill position when you go to diag mode!!!!! Having the kill switch to run will erase the codes when you reach d61. Go to d61 to view your error codes, if any. Wait several seconds because if there are more than one, it will flash the codes individually every 2 seconds. Write them down and consult the manual for their meaning, then address them accordingly. Chapter 8-40 explains the procedure.
 
Glad to hear you are making progress,...............BTW, what do you have for a service manual, genuine Yamaha or ???

I like to get myself one, I am an info junkie, but want a GOOD one, some of the " aftermarket " ones leave alot to be desired in my past experiences.

Thanks,
 
It is the Yamaha one, but it was published online by Partshark. After I'd downloaded it, I was told they were not authorized to distribute this and I then questioned them. Shortly thereafter, it was pulled off-line. :( It's the real deal though. :yes:
 
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