serious mechanical help!

Va rider you are patient and thank you for your help!! One thing I was thinking is when I removed my carbs I unbolted the boots with the carbs. Not like ivan does it. And like I said I only put two bolts back on one on each side of the boots. Outside of carb1 and outside carb4. Will this cause me to loose that much vacuum? And I didn't see any vacuum lines in the routing diagram. Also what isI this motor suppose to read for compression? I hate to tear into the motor but its always possible the valves are stuck a bit! Thanx again va rider for sticking this out with me!!!
 
02 fz1 said:
Va rider you are patient and thank you for your help!! One thing I was thinking is when I removed my carbs I unbolted the boots with the carbs. Not like ivan does it. And like I said I only put two bolts back on one on each side of the boots. Outside of carb1 and outside carb4. Will this cause me to loose that much vacuum? And I didn't see any vacuum lines in the routing diagram. Also what isI this motor suppose to read for compression? I hate to tear into the motor but its always possible the valves are stuck a bit! Thanx again va rider for sticking this out with me!!!
Click to expand...

I know for sure that it's manditory to have all 4 boots tightened down so that there is no loss of vacuum. That is why as you said, pipes 1 and 4 are warm and 2 and 3 are not. I don't understand why you can't reach the clamps for the two other boots?? Even on the bike they were easy to reach?
 
Thank you fz1 riderny for responding!!! Its not the clamps, I actually took the boots and carbs off as one. So out of the 8 bolts I only have 2 in there. I know dumb huh!! So the only vacuum to the carbs is strictly off the compression????
 
02 fz1 said:
Thank you fz1 riderny for responding!!! Its not the clamps, I actually took the boots and carbs off as one. So out of the 8 bolts I only have 2 in there. I know dumb huh!! So the only vacuum to the carbs is strictly off the compression????
Click to expand...

Well, I know that the bike will run like crap if one boot has cracks where air enters so imagine with bolts missing. That connection has to be air tight.
 
Thanks fz1riderny! Ill do that and keep you posted this afternoon. The boots are cracked on the outside but I think their ok inside. I will have to inspect them good. Do you know about the vacuum. How strong should it be with my hand over the ports??? And don't apologize, a response at all is very much appreciated.
 
I can't tell by your descriptions what you have actually done. But the carburetor bodies must be completely tight against the cylinder heads. If they are not you will have air leakage at the base of the carbs. Not good. Won't run right and if you try to run it that way for any length of time you can damage valves.
I suggest you find someone who has a better knowledge of these things to help you.
 
I just happened to stumble across this post as I was trying to catch up on what's going on with he FZ1 boys, but I just went through redoing the carbs and cams on a 31 year old XS1100 that I bought about 3 weeks ago. The bike was in very good shape from a cosmetic standpoint so my goal was to make a pristine example of what the bike could be if restored properly. When it comes to carbed motorcycles, if the owner wants it to really run right then it has to be put together so that it mimics the bike as it left the showroom floor. If you decide to rebuild the carbs, first clean them very carefully in a good carb cleaning solution ( I used a product by Gunk that worked well) then check every jet and orifice to make sure they are clear of any obstructions. Once that's done measure your float height and make sure all carbs are the same and the right height. A mm or two can throw the whole thing out of whack. Then put everything back together with NEW gaskets, don't fart around trying to reuse gaskets because you'll only get vacuum breaks or fuel flowing where it shouldn't. After you have remounted the carbs, look at any ports that connect to vacumm and if they are open, figure out what they need to be connected to or capped off. I happened to use a Clymer on my XS1100 but if I could have gotten a Yamaha manual I would have. If you follow this, at least you'll have the carbs straight. My XS1100 had a vacuum line from #2 carb that went to the ignition advance that was in terrible shape and was leaking vaccum in a bad way. There were other problems with the carburetion, but that certainly contributed to how poorly it ran before I got into it. If your bike has been sitting with gas in it for very long, it more than likley is really varnished and needs a total cleaning before anything else is done.
 
Thank you lone rider for your response. To catch up I have completely rebuilt the carbs and they are clear as I have taken them apart again to double check. I have the Yamaha manual and I can't see any vacuum lines to the carbs. If you know of one please tell me. All I saw was #4 had a line but it was just AIS. So maybe you know, do the carbs Pull vacuum directly from the compression?? Also, brand new fuel is in it with new cr9e plugs. Thank you all for your help!!!!!!!
 
This might seem a bit silly to the guys who understand the mechanics of the intake system, but for those who are a bit "iffy" about the subject, I'll try to be brief. As the piston decends on the intake stroke, it pulls in a air/fuel mixture that comes through the air filter first, then enters the carb (in carbed machines. As the air pases through the venturi (the part of the inside of the throat in the carb where it "necks down") a low pressure area is created that sucks in fuel from the idle jet, the pilot jet, and fianlly the main jet, depending on the throttle position and RPM. If a good low pressure area is not created (in another words we don't have a vacuum) no fuel can be pulled into the air and if there are vacuum leaks between the cylinder and the carb, the vacuum never gets to the carb and consequently no fuel is mixed, no bang, etc. This is why it's so important to make sure the seal(s) are good between the cylinder and the carb. Of course if you want, you can include the rings on the piston, the valves etc, etc. And, all of this is not of any use if the carb doesn't have fuel in the float, at the proper level, and all jets are clear to pass the fuel up from the float bowl.
 
Thank you lonerider for that. It was a great overview for alot of people. Im going to be sealing everything up tonight so I will keep you all posted. I do have compression I just hope its enough as I have checked with my hand at the head for vacuum. Didn't feel like a whole lot but I just hope its not the rings or valves!
 
Special thanx to varider, billy, lindy and lonerider for for all ur help!! Another issue resolved!! I tightened the boots and carbs up and she fired right up!! I hope this can help someone sometime in the future!!! Well my next question is, im running foam pod filters and I don't think its jetted yet. Can I get away with running it like this till after xmas? Then I will be ordering dales pod filter jet kit. And also syncing the carbs will have to wait. What's the downfall????
 
If the carbs are out of sync the engine could run rough and demonstrate a surge condition. Depending upon what Mods are currently performed on the bike going to the pod filters will have it running lean, how far lean depends upon what other Mods are on the bike. A overly lean condition could cause engine damage.
 
02 fz1 said:
Special thanx to varider, billy, lindy and lonerider for for all ur help!! Another issue resolved!! I tightened the boots and carbs up and she fired right up!! I hope this can help someone sometime in the future!!! Well my next question is, im running foam pod filters and I don't think its jetted yet. Can I get away with running it like this till after xmas? Then I will be ordering dales pod filter jet kit. And also syncing the carbs will have to wait. What's the downfall????
Click to expand...

It's great to hear that she's running! It was only a matter of time. VA knows his stuff when it comes to carbs for sure. He had helped me immensley when I was a rookie with the FZ. If your running Pods without a jet kit I would at least keep an eye on your plug condition so that you don't run her too lean. Post some video of it running for us so we can see!!! Congrats again!
 
02 fz1 said:
im running foam pod filters and I don't think its jetted yet. Can I get away with running it like this till after xmas? Then I will be ordering dales pod filter jet kit. And also syncing the carbs will have to wait. What's the downfall????
Click to expand...

It is very easy to tell if it is jetted. Look under the number one carb, at the front. If there is a round brass plug in the F/a port, the jetting is stock. If not, it has more then likely been rejetted. Also after a short ride,pull the number one plug to see that it isn't white or lean. It should be light tan or darker.
 
02 fz1 said:
Will all the carbs have brass plugs? Cause I know my #1 carbon has a brass screw
Click to expand...

02 fz1 said:
As a matter of fact, I know they all have brass screws. Because I tried to turn them and there pretty stiff.
Click to expand...

They are actually pressed in and are meant to keep people from "adjusting" the mixture screws. You can removing them by drilling them with a 1/8" drill bit and then screwing in a small sheet metal screw into the and using pliers on the sheet metal screws to just pull them out. Just be careful when drilling that you don't go to deep, otherwise you'll damage the adjuster screws.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top