Question for the construction experts...

I'm sorry. The picture comes too small when you use the attachment feature.

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guess that is what I was thinking in what Aaron suggested....the grey areas, in my poor powerpoint representation, was thinking you had pony walls carving out a storage area in the space.

what is the cost of sheetrock?

you are almost at that threshold for the amount of work for something that is a little more in price??

that is if you decide to add the R-19 to the mix for a better building evenlope.

As for the blocking of the soffit line -- yes for you pictorial representation....but you'll still need to drill some 3/4" holes, 2 per bay, to allow for ventilation. Not familar with NH climate.....but will look into some other areas to firm up that recommendation...
 
Here's some more pics. Adam, you were correct that there is a pony wall (we refer to them here as a knee wall) running both sides, front to back. This is loosely covered meaning not cut to exactly the size, just enough to keep stuff from falling out of the storage area. The pictures here are of the studs before they were covered in the loft with the sheathing. The truss you see being lifted with the colors? The red depicts where the rafters are walled and floored. The blue line depicts what is open to the garage below. This is the area that I am using to store stuff on top of the rafters. Unsure if I am willing to lose that space at this time hence panels that can be moved but, given all of what has been discussed, it is making more sense to pull the items down and do a more permanent solution which would be cheaper... rolled insulation and sheetrock.

Apparently I misunderstood my wife last night and that heater I ordered today should have waited. Ooops! :flash: She'll forget about that soon enough. :scared0016:

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In the photos... I'm not seeing apex venting of any kind... was that added after the fact?

I'd still insulate right at the top of the trusses... all of the way up at the roof.... hell... I might even have someone come in and write me an estimate on doing some spray in like so: [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=VFjxWdPPY1Q]YouTube - Spray Foam Insulation - The Intelligent Choice[/ame]

but in the rafters, on the underside of the roof OSB....

I know this might be a little more than you're looking for... but there's really no reason not to do it... you have windows in the garage, so in the summer, you could open them up and get a nice breeze to keep things cool... it's more of a permanent fix... and ups the resale....
 
LOL! It's not THAT big! ;) The garage is 24'x24' and the loft is about 12'x24' and my daughter's crap occupies about half of it! :eek:

Billy, that price is fantastic! Is that the foil-faced or the pink rigid Foamula stuff? I wonder why it is so expensive here and we don't even have taxes!!!

BTW, it was the electric 19k BTU heater I bought. That was the least expensive to try out. I've been talking to another guy about a hot water baseboard using solar and a home-built collector but I'd have to build that over the summer and install it on the roof. Take a look at this. Picture this mounted on a true-southern exposure roof with the supply filled with an ethylene-glycol liquid (antifreeze) that has an extremely high boiling point and will not freeze. (This is down the road but cheap and doable!) I'm already on the hunt for one or two broken water heaters to pull the tanks from and start fitting. For the summer, I can put a reflective cover over the tank OR, run it into the house as a pre-heater for the hot water supply for the house. Save on the natural gas bill for the summer. :D Check out this link for those interested: Solar Hot Water Batch Collector - DIY Solar Shower - Homemade Hot Water Heater - Tankless Water Heaters ? ByExample.com
 
Thanks Aaron! Here in New England, we cannot insulate to the OSB. I can put in the rafter vents and insulate over those if I want. The venting is installed under the eaves, front to back on both sides and the entire roof ridge is a vented cap. We'd have to jeep the air flowing from eave to roof ridge to meet state code.

One of the reasons I wanted to insulate lower (ceiling level) is to trap the heat in the work space and not have to heat the loft area. This allows a smaller heater and a quicker warmup time before work begins. The loft is only for storage and no work is done up there. Currently it is all boxed stuff and soon to be 42' of 3' deep shelving with a 6' aisle down the center.

What you suggest is a great idea! I appreciate it!
 
the only reason I suggest that, is so you can maintain your storage in the ceiling area.... otherwise, I'd recommend sheet-rock and insulating the ceiling... because, you're absolutely correct... not real reason to heat all of the way up...

but.. I think the idea you've got going should work like a champ...

here, we're allowed to insulate the top roof truss areas... hell... we're encouraged to do so... my current place actually is insulated on the underside of the roof trusses, as well as in the ceiling and floor of my place... it's like living in a big insulated cooler.... except that all my dang windows and doors leak like crazy.
 
FZ1inNH said:
LOL! It's not THAT big! ;) The garage is 24'x24' and the loft is about 12'x24' and my daughter's crap occupies about half of it! :eek:

Billy, that price is fantastic! Is that the foil-faced or the pink rigid Foamula stuff? I wonder why it is so expensive here and we don't even have taxes!!!

BTW, it was the electric 19k BTU heater I bought. That was the least expensive to try out. I've been talking to another guy about a hot water baseboard using solar and a home-built collector but I'd have to build that over the summer and install it on the roof. Take a look at this. Picture this mounted on a true-southern exposure roof with the supply filled with an ethylene-glycol liquid (antifreeze) that has an extremely high boiling point and will not freeze. (This is down the road but cheap and doable!) I'm already on the hunt for one or two broken water heaters to pull the tanks from and start fitting. For the summer, I can put a reflective cover over the tank OR, run it into the house as a pre-heater for the hot water supply for the house. Save on the natural gas bill for the summer. :D Check out this link for those interested: Solar Hot Water Batch Collector - DIY Solar Shower - Homemade Hot Water Heater - Tankless Water Heaters ? ByExample.com
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I think thats the problem Eric. You need to ask them for the "White" rigid board. The foil face and the pink or blue is exterior grade, at least here in NY. Ours is all white and rated for interior use only. I'm sure that they must sell that up there by you. Ask around for it. You don't have to go with the pink stuff inside. Also, If in fact thats all they have, then you may just want to go with a Kraft Face R19, followed by a 3mil poly, and rock it with 1/2" rock and be done with it. The R19 will give you almost 5 times the R Value and cost alot less. We sell a 49sq. ft. roll of R19 for $19.99. Your paying 15 and change for 16sq. ft. of styrofoam that gives you at most an R3. You'll probably be able to insulate, poly, and rock, for less money than going with the rigid. We also have a roll of R19 thats 24" wide. Each roll covers 135sq. ft. and costs $42.00 dollars. Now that you have figured that you can do a more "permanent" job, I'd say go with the fiberglass. Once you staple up the 3mil poly, you won't have that dust creeping in either.
 
should only require 1" of separation from the insulation and OSB -- that is how you would be able to maintain you air flow to allow the building to breathe....but need to pick the cobwebs out of my brain on insulating before you quote me on that....
 
va_rider said:
the only reason I suggest that, is so you can maintain your storage in the ceiling area.... otherwise, I'd recommend sheet-rock and insulating the ceiling... because, you're absolutely correct... not real reason to heat all of the way up...

but.. I think the idea you've got going should work like a champ...

here, we're allowed to insulate the top roof truss areas... hell... we're encouraged to do so... my current place actually is insulated on the underside of the roof trusses, as well as in the ceiling and floor of my place... it's like living in a big insulated cooler.... except that all my dang windows and doors leak like crazy.
Click to expand...

isn't there a 1500 tax credit being offered for insulating....now you just have to figure out how to claim the FZ as a dependent....hehe
 
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