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Progression of Lunacy....a pictorial documentary and random discussion

anyone have a recommendation for the radiator to make it black (without having to replace?)

Would a light coat of high temp paint be sufficient to allow air flow yet make the silver disappear?

I'm not too sure about spraying the cooling fins with Hi Temp paint Adam. I don't think you'd want to insulate them from outside airflow as it may mean higher temps for you. Then again, maybe a real light coat, very light, wouldn't harm it.
 
I'm going to do the sides up nice and purdy -- and I already did the guard last year. However, when I get the ceramic Muzzy and clean up the front side of the engine, for my piece of mind, want it to be complete......
 
I wouldn't spray the radiator Adam.... it can be done... but you have to be so amazingly delicate with the paint....

as someone that's done the radiator sidecovers multiple times... let me advice you to use a thin coat of rubberized undercoating under whatever paint you want to use... (or just the undercoating if you want them black) .... the first time I painted mine, they looked gorgeous... for about 2 days.... then, the front tire was throwing gravel up onto them, and nicked the paint in quite a few places (these BT016's are sticky!) with the rubberized undercoating, the paint has stayed in much better condition... it's like the rocks hit the paint, and bounce off instead of nicking it..
 
I still have the exhaust to remove. I ran out of time before I could completely finish the job. I just have to disconnect the EXUP cables and finish dropping the header. I'm going to leave everything in place until I feel that I'm satisfied with the full exhaust and then come back and remove cables/servo if it cuts the mustard.

I'll then start cleaning up the front end and rough up the frame so I can get ready for primer. I'm going to do it and paint the frame black. Hopefully, I've learned from my past experiences to get the desired result without too much effort. Going to do a Satin Black frame. Leave the engine silver, and finish it with black side covers and the passenger footpegs probably powder coated. May even throw the rear swing arm in the mix too.

I did notice one thing in a dryfit. I married the MIVV exhaust to the Muzzy header and probably had about 1mm of loose play. It was not a tight union, and I do not think the clamp torqued down will make up the difference.

Anyone have any recommendations on a way to close the gap (exhaust tape)?

Adam
 
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Routing of the EXUP cables (note: connection to EXUP is on the top on the header and the top becomes the bottom when connected to the servo)

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reminder that green goes on bottom of servo

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Stand to connect bottom of radiator

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Exhaust far left

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Inside Left

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Inside right

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far right

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OK docs.....what is going on with my exhaust?? buildup as shown and light grey on the inside as well.....but looks like "splatter" if someone was welding.

time to go to school.....

however, in the mean time, I'll start to mask/cover up and prep the frame for paint. I've probably taken it farther than I really needed to, since the only real visible part of the frame is in front of the rearsets, but I'm going for broke.
 
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Looks like a great job to me! As for the exhaust, can you pluck/scrape any of that out toward your opening and maybe crush it to see how hard/soft it is? If it is just carbon deposits, then you can clean them out with a small wire brush. Put the brush in the hole then drag it out to you.

Regarding the header and can space... I would take them both to an exhaust shop and have them use a spreader to expand the end of the head pipe until the can fits snug enough to clamp tight. That is a simple task for them to accomplish. I'm guessing no more than $25.00 to do it as it takes about 10 minutes. :D
 
I have on a confirmed source (PJ -- pjsparts) that the clamp will actually compress enough to make a seal, but he recommened using a product 'High Temp RTV' to ensure no leaks come about.
 
I have on a confirmed source (PJ -- pjsparts) that the clamp will actually compress enough to make a seal, but he recommened using a product 'High Temp RTV' to ensure no leaks come about.

My Two Bros came with that stuff but I did not have to use it. Put a fair amount on it then clamp the crap out of it! If that isn't enough, expander will work. :D
 
Well, last night I found out that my Muzzy header will not fit my final plan IF I want to use my Factory belly pan.

So I'll be reinstalling the EXUP cables to run the stock header BUT I've found a local guy who'll ceramic coat them for 175.00.

I also hit the welder to modify the center stand to be able to have the full clearance available of my Gilles rearsets if I'm all the way up and back.

Pics in a few.....
 
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Misc Caps for the front engine mount and top cap for the head steer tube

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Front engine mount

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Side covers getting ready to shoot black

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Header at the coatings shop being dropped off for a two step matte finish

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another shot

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Orientation of the radiator fan but getting ready to clean up and paint black

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various shots before I begin to prime

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front engine after first round of cleaning. going to make a second attempt.
 
well, I'm think that I'm going to try and 'dress up' the radiator. I'm going to mask of the fins and shoot the top/sides/bottom with high temp paint and get it looking pretty. Then I'm going to mask off what I've shot, and try and get a light uniform coat on the fins.

I'm having a little bit better success with my rattle can finish -- but I still have to force myself to give enough drying time so I don't get any runs or possible orange peel.

All painting is being done from rattlers at this time, it would of cost me in replacment parts what I've spen in materials so far, and that is before paint......

My box of garage sales goodies just showed up this evening, and I've already sold some parts, but I have side covers, air box, and chain guard that I'm going to prep and shoot black. this will allow me to finally give a shot at applying a clear coat to all of my Carbon Fiber to see if I can restore the sheen and protect at the same time. Most have said it is a hit/miss type deal.....I'm hoping for a hit and breathe some life into the old covers....
 
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So I masked off the fins and shot the sides with some header paint. After the first coat, pictured above, I did not like the fact that it was a flat finish and no sheen. I went to p/u some 500 degree black gloss paint and re shot the above....I like the look better and will hopefully be doing the reverse of above to touch up the fins.

I also got the fan/shroud/motor for the radiator shot as well as the side covers. I'm going to prep all the plastics to get ready for primer and hopefully put color on tomorrow.

Fairing inserts have been obtained from the "rehto" place and just received word from Traxxion that my forks are being shipped back and will make it by Wed of next week.

Going to wipe down the frame this evening and start the process of masking so that I can get ready for primer. If I continue to have the success I've been having with the painting....will also tackle the rear swing arm and make alot of the imperfections from years of use, disappear.

Found a tuning fork sprocket cover.
Able to track down a pair of black swingarm plugs from Devilsyam


I'm now going to order the convertibars new style of handlebar so that I can get another plane of adjustment

More to come....but have to kill time somehow while the paint dries....
 
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Raw field with painted sides

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front side that I'm trying to make uniform

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first 'light' coat

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as it sits before the masking is removed

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finished

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the covers after getting rinsed before being primed.

descriptions in a few.....
 
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This is promising to be a sweet build! I like what I see so far Adam. :tup: Are you sure you don't want to drop the engine and other items down to a bare frame to paint? Of course, there IS that NIB frame a guy is selling....... ;)
 
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