New rider with some beginner questions.

a couple of new questions.

How hard is it to change a tire? My rear tire needs it. I watched a youtube video. It looked hard, but it is also pretty expensive to take in and get done. Is it something I should learn how to do? Do i have to buy a stand or can I make one? Is there a place to attach spools to the swingers on the first gen fz1?

Where do you put your right hand? I want to be able to access the brake quick, in case I need to stop fast. The best I can come up with is my thumb and forefinger on the throttle and my middle and ring always resting on the brake lever. The problem with this is I would worry if I had to brake quick I might inadvertently pull the throttle.
 
You can DIY your tire changes, there's lots of guides on YouTube on how to do it and also how to make your own rigs. However, as a brand new rider, I'd just recommend getting it done for the first few times. If you can make nice with your local shop, they might even offer to guide you through the process. I personally just pay my guy to do it as I can't be bothered.

As for the right hand, I ride like this 99.9% of the time:
Downshifting-Techniques-Brake-Pressure.jpg


Practice your emergency braking with your fingers in this position so you understand what to do if you need to make a panic stop.

Again, all of this information (and more) is in your unpurchased copy of Proficient Motorcycling by David Hough, available at your local bookstore or Amazon.com for a low, low price of whatever it costs. Indispensable.
 
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lol, thanks. I've got the book on order, the local shop didn't have it in, and I never have bought anything from amazon. like the hand position.
 
can my speedometer be reading fast? I'm starting to wonder. You know the post where i thought I was being raced by cars? well i'm riding sometimes 65 and they seem to think thats slow, i don't remember most drivers on that stretch going much faster, maybe my speedo is off?
 
Area57 said:
can my speedometer be reading fast? I'm starting to wonder. You know the post where i thought I was being raced by cars? well i'm riding sometimes 65 and they seem to think thats slow, i don't remember most drivers on that stretch going much faster, maybe my speedo is off?
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If your bike is stock gearing, then yes your speedo is 5 to 10 % off from the factory. A speedo healer can fix this.
 
In my experience, most bikes come from the factory with a speedometer that is optimistic between 5 and 10%. Typically, the odometer is spot-on and the optimism is intentional for whatever reason. I have tested many of my bikes using my GPS and this is always the case.

As mentioned, you can recalibrate the speedometer but keep in mind that this will usually throw your odometer off as a result.
 
Thanks. What is stock gearing? I have the latest invoice of the work the previous owner did, and at his last service he put a 530 bring chain on and replaced the sprockets with a 15t up front and a 45 t in the back. I had heard you could increase power on these bikes by some kit sold on eBay, but also by the sprocket changes. Did this guy just get new identical ones or did he increase power?

Speaking of power, when they talk about the mid range rpm's being where it's at, does that mean that if I stay in say second, and don't shift to third like I normally would, I am going to notice a dramatic increase in power once I get around 7000 rpm's?

Can you hurt the bike by revving really high repeatedly? Not redline high, but say often riding around in the 7-10,000 rpm range? Or are they built to like to ride like this? That is how you would race someone from the line right? If I was at a stop light, and somebody came up next to me giving me the eye, to get to 60 asap I just leave it in first and jack down the throttle and stay in first? I can stay in first up to redline or about 100 mph right? That just seems so strange to me. As soon as I hear it getting around 4 or 5 my mind tells me I should shift. I'm not used to the sound of high rams.
 
Area57 said:
Thanks. What is stock gearing? I have the latest invoice of the work the previous owner did, and at his last service he put a 530 bring chain on and replaced the sprockets with a 15t up front and a 45 t in the back. I had heard you could increase power on these bikes by some kit sold on eBay, but also by the sprocket changes. Did this guy just get new identical ones or did he increase power?

Speaking of power, when they talk about the mid range rpm's being where it's at, does that mean that if I stay in say second, and don't shift to third like I normally would, I am going to notice a dramatic increase in power once I get around 7000 rpm's?

Can you hurt the bike by revving really high repeatedly? Not redline high, but say often riding around in the 7-10,000 rpm range? Or are they built to like to ride like this? That is how you would race someone from the line right? If I was at a stop light, and somebody came up next to me giving me the eye, to get to 60 asap I just leave it in first and jack down the throttle and stay in first? I can stay in first up to redline or about 100 mph right? That just seems so strange to me. As soon as I hear it getting around 4 or 5 my mind tells me I should shift. I'm not used to the sound of high rams.
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Stock gearing is 16/44 according to Gearing Commander: Motorcycle Speed, RPM, Chain & Sprockets Calculator; it's a fun site that allows you to play with gearing and gives you loads of data.

I don't know what you're referring to regarding this eBay kit but you can find loads of info on your bike here on the forum. If it can be modded, it has been modded already. Your bike has carburetors and will typically have limited scope of modification to increase power. Staying on top of routine maintenance is most important thing for keeping your bike running sharply and that's definitely where I'd start first, especially with carburetors.

Regarding the power question. It'll take time for you to get to know your bike and your preferred gear and rpm will change as you gain skill and confidence. Don't worry about the rpm you're in now, focus on learning to feel and listen to the bike and yourself. Your first generation FZ1 has ample power all over the rev range and you'll learn where you're happy keeping it. Rest assured, if you take baby up full throttle in 2nd gear past 7000 RPM, you better hold on tight! :)

Unlike cars, motorcycles work best at high rpm. You won't damage it by riding high up in the rev range and you'll actually do more damage if you lug the motor (keep it too low). Obviously when the motor is cold, you should keep the revs low until the bike is up to operating temperature. After that, give her hell.

I hope you signed up for your local motorcycle skills course. You will learn a lot from the basic training. :)
 
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Good advice

A lot of good advice from Dustin. These bikes will run 20 mph (lugging) in 6th and 90 mph in 1st (revving) so they are very forgiving. I would recommend practicing stopping fast. Get used to the front brake early. Panic stops using too much rear brake can get crazy real fast. These bike will really talk to you and let you know whats going on when you get used to them.
Take your time
Be safe
 
thanks, definitely good advice. My state decided to make MSC mandatory but they only have one authorized company, so they are booked out for months.

I need to change my rear wheel. I see I need a stand. I have never taken a rear wheel off, but do I need the stand? I have a center stand, and that lifts the rear wheel off of the ground.
 
good, I'm glad to hear it. time to watch some videos on removing rear wheels. I guess those stands they sell are for bikes that don't have center stands, and for doing more than just changing the rear tire. I'll tell you, learning how to ride a motorcycle on a big bike like this in winter when it rains everyday might not be the easiest thing. I think it really has rained everyday since I bought the bike, and I have ridden everyday too. Sure would be nice for some better weather.
 
Area57 said:
good, I'm glad to hear it. time to watch some videos on removing rear wheels. I guess those stands they sell are for bikes that don't have center stands, and for doing more than just changing the rear tire. I'll tell you, learning how to ride a motorcycle on a big bike like this in winter when it rains everyday might not be the easiest thing. I think it really has rained everyday since I bought the bike, and I have ridden everyday too. Sure would be nice for some better weather.
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roads were dry this mornin :)
 
When you guys change your oil, do you change the filter every time or every other time? Three quarts right? That's what the manual says. It was last changed in January by the previous owner and the filter but I don't know how many miles he put on it. I figure I should start fresh. I want it to last. He did have the carb rebuilt and the hoses changed and coolant flushed so other wise I was going to adjust the suspension tonight and call it good. Anything else you think I should do?
 
I think if you plan on running short oil change intervals, you could get by with changing the filter every second change. I believe the quantity is 3.1 US Quarts if you change the filter. Good call on changing the oil, at least you know where you stand.

The other fluid I'd recommend you change is your brake fluid. It should changed every year, ideally.
 
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I recommend changing the filter every time. Something to consider is that the oil is also lubricating the transmission and more important carrying all of the material from clutch wear. For the cost of a filter it is good insurance.
 
smittynsc said:
I recommend changing the filter every time. Something to consider is that the oil is also lubricating the transmission and more important carrying all of the material from clutch wear. For the cost of a filter it is good insurance.
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I agree, although I forgot to write that part. I change mine every time! I typically run 5000 - 6000 miles between oil changes and many people change at 2000 - 3000 so I could see the rationale behind less frequent filter changes.
 
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My led headlight went out. It actually started flashing and then went out. Then it flashed a bit later in the day and went out. I thought LED bulbs lasted for like ten years. Do I just need a new LED bulb or could there be an electrical issue?
 
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