I may have broke something

Ssky0078 said:
I looked at the marks on the swingarm to indicate the distance for the adjustment bolt (I dunno how else to say it) It appears that the left side (chain side) is a little closer than the other side. I don't have the big bolt thing to undo the axle bolt.

Can I just adjust the side that appears to be different by loosening the locking bolt and adjusting the distance on the left (chain side) of the swing arm?
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No, you'll have to loosen the axle nut first. What is the slack right now on the chain with the bike on the center stand?
 
Ssky0078 said:
I looked at the marks on the swingarm to indicate the distance for the adjustment bolt (I dunno how else to say it) It appears that the left side (chain side) is a little closer than the other side. I don't have the big bolt thing to undo the axle bolt.

Can I just adjust the side that appears to be different by loosening the locking bolt and adjusting the distance on the left (chain side) of the swing arm?
Click to expand...

Unfortunately, No. You'd have to loosen the main axle bolt first. Not sure what it is on the GenII's. GenI bikes are 32mm or 1-1/4" SAE. Get an inexpensive Caliper (Digital or not), and measure each side. Sometimes the lines aren't exactly dead on.
 
The on board tool set has a wrench for the rear axle nut, anyway it is 32mm and I would use a torque wrench to tighten it (150 Nm).

@Dustin glad you are ok
 
Dustin - glad you're ok as well. Offs are no fun as both of mine have been heavily discussed. Odd aside to your story but did you get a chance to test the C3? I keep drooling over that helmet and saving up my money.

I will check the OEM tool kit tomorrow but for some reason I don't remember that socket.

Today was a bicycle and then later a cab ride day being St. Patrick's Day and all.
 
Ssky0078 said:
I don't remember that socket.
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It masquerades as a wrench, iirc. ;-) I have a 32mm socket that I use at home, but I've adjusted the chain using the OEM toolkit while on a trip. You should find everything you need in there.

I seem to remember a rumor that you could completely tear down and rebuild the old BMW bikes with the included toolkit. Yamaha isn't that good, but they do okay with what they include with the FZ1 .
 
So I looked at the markings and they are off. I went to loose the axle bolt with the oem tool but just ended up rocking the bike. I'm going to wait till my neighbor gets home to figure out a better way to secure the bike or at least have him hold the front end steady. Can somebody confirm the spec chain tension for me? I believe it is 1.1-1.35
 
Ssky0078 said:
So I looked at the markings and they are off. I went to loose the axle bolt with the oem tool but just ended up rocking the bike. I'm going to wait till my neighbor gets home to figure out a better way to secure the bike or at least have him hold the front end steady. Can somebody confirm the spec chain tension for me? I believe it is 1.1-1.35
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Houston, we have a problem: the 2009 Owner's Manual says 20mm - 30mm (0.8" - 1.2"), page 7-24, however, the full blown 2006 FZ1 Service Manual says 25mm - 35mm (0.98" - 1.38"), page 3-25. I don't know if there was an update or not, but I'd go with the looser adjustment to be safe. Either one should be ok.
 
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Evitzee said:
Houston, we have a problem: the 2009 Owner's Manual says 20mm - 30mm (0.8" - 1.2"), however, the 2006 FZ1 Service Manual says 25mm - 35mm (0.98" - 1.38"). I don't know if there was an update or not, but I'd go with the looser adjustment to be safe.
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I have a 2009 so I'll go with that setting. Also I was thinking 1.2" for some reason.
 
Ssky0078 said:
I believe it is 1.1-1.35
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I have an '06 service manual and it states the slack should be between 25 -35 mm (0.98-1.38 in). It also states that the vehicle should on a "level surface" and on a "suitable stand so that the rear wheel is elevated."
 
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How tight is too tight? Find out on your own. Place the bike on the centerstand in neutral. Remove the shock. Now lift the rear wheel until the chain is at it's tightest and place spacers under the tire to hold it at this point. Now tighten the chain. When your done, you should be able to lift the wheel all the way through it's travel without any extra friction from the chain. Rotate the rear wheel a little and repeat until your certain the chain never gets tight enough to put stress on the countershaft bearings. Now put the shock back on.
 
Mmmh should be not hard to loosen the axle nut, it's 150 nM so you should use some metal pipe to extend the wrench at least 1-2' so that the lever arm is long enough and then it should work. Never had the bike rocking....

The specs are 25-35 mm when on center stand, I usually adjust it to 30 mm when on the rear stand (that is with not fully lowered swingarm).
 
So I got the bike into the shop and they checked the chain and said it was right at about an inch in slack. The markings for the axle looked to be about even nd the rear shock looked fine.

When I was looking at the rear I did crank down on the axle nut. The bike seems to be tracking a little better.

Question is how soon is too soon to replace chain and sprockets? The bike has 9500 miles on it. The pilot road 2's on there have 4500 miles on them. I'm planning on swapping to a set of black rims, new pilot power 3's, new chain and sprocket as soon as those pr2's, well the rear starts to look warn down or 10k miles whichever is first. If business goes well I may throw a Penske rear 8975 at that time. In theory with new rubber, suspension and drive train it should feel like a new bike. Any other thoughts and suggestions appreciated
 
Ssky0078 said:
So I got the bike into the shop and they checked the chain and said it was right at about an inch in slack. The markings for the axle looked to be about even nd the rear shock looked fine.

When I was looking at the rear I did crank down on the axle nut. The bike seems to be tracking a little better.

Question is how soon is too soon to replace chain and sprockets? The bike has 9500 miles on it. The pilot road 2's on there have 4500 miles on them. I'm planning on swapping to a set of black rims, new pilot power 3's, new chain and sprocket as soon as those pr2's, well the rear starts to look warn down or 10k miles whichever is first. If business goes well I may throw a Penske rear 8975 at that time. In theory with new rubber, suspension and drive train it should feel like a new bike. Any other thoughts and suggestions appreciated
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For me, I like to change sprockets and chains as a set. If I'm installing a new chain, I like to have new sprockets as well. With proper maintenance and lubrication you should get much more than 9500 miles on a set. Also, depending on how you ride. Guys that are jumping off the line like a Moto GP Start, or the wheelie guys, aren't gonna get the same lifespan.
 
Life of the chain and sprockets directly correlate to the owner's maintenance. Some on here have gotten well over 20k on a set. I agree with Billy too... when replacing, get all three new.

Also, do NOT get a chain with a clip-master link! Not for a 1000! Riveted master link only to deal with the stress of this HP.
 
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