Hitting Neutral while Stopped....

no synthetic -- adjusted originally within spec

the problem was the bolt that held the footpeg on my Gilles rearsets having become bound by making contact with the centerstand. Becasue I'm almost all the way up and back, I had to make a spacer to keep the centerstand from making contact.

Because the peg was not fully secured, it was making contact with the centerstand impeding proper operation. I've since fixed the issue, adjusted the clutch cable a bit tighter than spec and back to like buddah.....

Adam
 
Thanks. I've Gilles rearsets on mine as well. Sounds like I'll need to check my centerstand and see if it's interfering. Got any pix of the spacer you made?
 
I'd still love to know how you retained the centerstand with the Gilles.... that simply wasn't happening with mine.. even in the lowest position... no way, no how.... but it worked out well as it gave me an excuse to get new front and rear stands..
 
I had to remove the rubber bushing from the centerstand and then about an 1 1/4" screw with washers to make up the difference so it would not fall off. I've got maybe 1/8" of clearance between part you would use to push down on to put bike on the centerstand.

But, with the addition of the muzzy header, I'm going to be joining your ranks real soon with front/rear stand.

who did ya go through?

Adam
 
here ya go Adam...
Coba Yamaha FZ1 06-07 BIKE FRONT ADJ. LIFT STAND : eBay Motors (item 380199071754 end time Jan-26-10 12:31:00 PST)

Yamaha YZFR6 R1 98-05 REAR SWINGARM PADDOCK STAND LIFT : eBay Motors (item 380199074680 end time Jan-26-10 12:40:16 PST)

you can get the "normal" front stands cheaper... but I don't understand why anyone would want a stand that lifts from the forks... I can put mine on the pin stand, pull the front wheel... pull the forks... and let it sit with no forks for as long as I need to... and stability is awesome while on the stand!
 
and durability?? was looking at going through the PJ, but this would save funds to pick up on a CF MIVV from PJ on another matter....hehehe
 
they've been holding up well so far... the bike has been sitting on them for... well... since October... and just cause I missed the bike.. I went down to visit it one day and sat on it... on the stands... so.. figure weight of bike + my 250lbs... it held just fine while I made weeeeeee weeeeeeeeeeee weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee noises and pretended to twist the throttle.
 
No problem with N anytime. And I always go into N at lights. How many miles on the bike? If brand new, may need more miles.
 
Don't know if you've fixed the problem but my '02 does the same thing once in a while depending on how hard I come down through the gears..... I find that letting the clutch out just enough to start the bike rolling allows the neutral shift quite easily
 
I'm with Lonerider...

I always try to hit neutral from first. not second, but it will easily do it. I have synthetic oil though, mabe a turn or two on your clutch adjuster, try a half turn at a time, but only one or two revolutions, you don't want your clutch slipping 'cause of adjustment
 
Gohot229 said:
I'v read in other forums about completly different bike brands and such ,but that with the change to full synthetic the transmissions shift so much smoother and finding neutral is much easier, but I'll have to lean towards the adjustment being the culprit, but hay the cable-wheel is right there, I'd say to tighten it just a scoush and see if it disengages more, enough to easily up-click into (green) neutral.
Click to expand...

I agree that synthetics play a significant part in the ease of shifting. I have used syntheticas in all of my bikes since the mid-late eighties and have found the shifting to be better all around. Even in finding neutral. Unless the bike has been in an accident or the previous owner messed with it, I don't think it's the linkage adjustment of the shifter. Maybe the clutch lever adjustment needs attention, but other than that, switch to synthetic, you will really notice a difference.

My two sense.:2cents:
 
Something must be bent or worn. Another thing i noticed is the faster you go and try to get in neutral, it will skip and go to 1st. At slower speeds it's easier to go from 3/2 to neutral. You must also have a sensitive foot also. Of course if you've had ur bike for a while you know the deal on how to shift so I won't insult your intelligence.
 
im aware this thread is old ..but the clutch basket can be notched or worn which will cause a slight drag making neutral harder to find. ive had this occur several times in atv applications in my higher horsepower modified machines. just dropping this hint for people looking at this thread in the future.on my old 250r,and a bit on my 450r neutral can be tricky to find. synthetics made for wet clutches will certainly smooth out shifting and finding neutral also.:sport12:
 
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