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Evotech FE install

Jman

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May 22, 2012
Messages
139
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Making some progress with the new one. One of my favorite mods so far is the FE, though. Thanks Eric for your pics of this on your thread! Did like the one that was on the FZ6 I had, so figured the quality would be just as good for the FZ1. I noticed a bunch of chips on the under panel so I found some really nice rock guard coating to use on it. Very pleased with how it turned out....goes with the FE kit nicely.:flash:
 
Jman,can i ask u smthing?
As i can see from your avatar photo,u have connect your front park lights with the front turn signal for working together?Do they working as parking lights or as turn signals?Are your front turn signals halogen or led?
 
Jman,can i ask u smthing?
As i can see from your avatar photo,u have connect your front park lights with the front turn signal for working together?Do they working as parking lights or as turn signals?Are your front turn signals halogen or led?

The running lights from the OEM harness for both sides are the blue wires. Ground is black and flashers are green on one side, brown for the other side. I just parelleled my pod lights to the black and (brown, green) wires. This just makes them blinkers only. If you wanted running lights, you could parellel the pod lights to black and blue. If you wanted running AND out of sync blinkers just parallel the pods to blue and (brown, green). I highly recommend the ELF-1 relay to replace the factory flasher relay for LED applications. It is plug and play for the one under the seat.

I am using halogens for the headlights. All the rest of my lights are LED. Going to put in the Sylvania silverstars soon in the headlight sockets. Did the HID conversion on the last bike and don't really want to do it on this one.
 
Jman, I to installed that one. I used the plate adapter that came with it so the plate is right up to the LED, no plate holder showing. I like that under coating you did to.
 
The running lights from the OEM harness for both sides are the blue wires. Ground is black and flashers are green on one side, brown for the other side. If you wanted running AND out of sync blinkers just parallel the pods to blue and (brown, green).

This is what I did to mine... running lights and alternating blinkers. I like having them on as amber running lights and the extra attention for alternating blinkers.
 
Hey Jman are those the led blinkers from yamabits.co.uk? I have those on my bike. They are great looking turn signals. Is that a Cycleshell cover?
 
Jman, I to installed that one. I used the plate adapter that came with it so the plate is right up to the LED, no plate holder showing. I like that under coating you did to.

That's correct, you can fool around with the fittings on the Evotech FE and get the plate right up to the LED light for a clean install. I never used the helper adaptors that came with the kit.

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:stunta]:
That's correct, you can fool around with the fittings on the Evotech FE and get the plate right up to the LED light for a clean install. I never used the helper adaptors that came with the kit.

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Lowered mine a little to try and keep the rock fling into the tailight to a minimum.
 
That's our yearly TX 'safety' inspection.....more a tax than anything else in my experience.

Check horn, turn signals, tread depth, direction of tire arrows on sidewall, do a short test ride to check clutch, throttle and brakes. One thing that is instant fail is if you don't have a working plate light. It's a pretty basic test and it weeds out the real pigs that shouldn't be on the road. Cost last May was $16.80 for the year so the tester isn't making much money, unless he finds something that needs fixin', heh, heh.
 
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This is what I did to mine... running lights and alternating blinkers. I like having them on as amber running lights and the extra attention for alternating blinkers.

Like Eric, or Cobalt said, you can do the alternate flashing signal, BUT, if you have a low load front turn signal it most likely will not work.

I tried to connect the front flashers with my Proton front signals and an EF-1 flasher relay. When connected the Super Bright LED's for the front signals, enough voltage leaks through to trigger the Protons, so the Protons flashed ALL the time.

The other problem with this setup is you are not putting a positive 12 Volts to the front alternate signals at all times with a ground. In effect you are putting a positive 12 Volts to one side of the front signal, then through them, then the ground lead on the front signal connects to your front Flasher light (in my case the Proton light) then to actual ground.

You, in effect, are making a series circuit of the front flasher and the front signal light. This is only a problem for the front signal light though, unless the front turn signal light shorts out. Now you have a problem.

If front signal light burns out OPEN the front signal light fails to work. If the front flasher light burns out OPEN then neither will work.

If the front signal light burns out SHORTED it will have unknown effects or you will have non working front signal lights AND non working front running lights. If the front flasher light burns out SHORTED you will have only a working front flasher light.

For effect in this post the reference is as follows:
Signal light=non stock added light in the headlight pod
Flasher light=the damn turn signal

If you truly want alternate flashing lights you will need to add some type of electronic circuitry to control the lights. (I can figure this out for you if you pay me or B**W me, neither of which I want)

My best suggestion, the one that I went with, is to use Eric's (Cobalts) front signal mod, BUT hook them up to the positive flasher signal AND then to ground. This gives FULL voltage to the signal lights and flasher lights. Both burn bright, and if one fails OPEN both still work. If they fail SHORTED, well, you're screwed then, but that rarely happens.
 
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Check horn, turn signals, tread depth, direction of tire arrows on sidewall, do a short test ride to check clutch, throttle and brakes. One thing that is instant fail is if you don't have a working plate light. It's a pretty basic test and it weeds out the real pigs that shouldn't be on the road. Cost last May was $16.80 for the year so the tester isn't making much money, unless he finds something that needs fixin', heh, heh.


My last one at the stealership this year - guy turned the key on, realized my bike had 476miles on it, turned it off, came back inside and did the paperwork. Cost $14.75.....
 
Can you give me a name for the coating you used? Might be able to find something like it in Aus? I want to paint the lower front guard (the fork protector part) with something like that.

It was Napa Auto Parts (body and paint portion of the store) stone guard. Honestly though, I wasn't impressed with how it was holding up (especially compared to the Line-x). Ended up replacing it.
 
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