Chain Cleaning & Oiling .

I've heard both sides of this. and for the record i stopped using it. but have had top mechanics tell me its fine to use. as well as i have never had a chain suffer any damage from it.. in theory it may have killed a chain somewhere and i'm definately no person to say it wont. but i haven't seen it
 
I just did what it said in the owners manual, clean the chain with kerosene and a soft bristled brush (I used an old toothbrush). I followed that with a thorough coating of Yamaha chain lube. Let it dry for a few minutes before riding to allow it to dry so it won't fling off.
 
I use the same thing I use in my parts cleaner. A mixture of mineral spirits paint thinner and transmission fluid. The Tranny fluid keeps the thinner from drying out and cracking my skin and maintains a lite coat of lubricant so they never get dry clean. Mix a small can of tranny fluid with a gallon of thinner. I just hook an extension hose to my parts cleaner pump spiggot and flow it over the chain and scrub with some brushes, being sure the shield the bike and position a bucket to catch the flow through.

I lubricate with a dry wax lubricant as it gets a bit dusty around here in summer.
 
Kerosene is King

Kerosene is recommended by the manufacturers. That works for me.
What I love most is that it is so cheap.
I find with other cleaners I skimped a bit cause they were so expensive if used often.
Kerosene on the other hand, I apply liberally with a small paintbrush and let soak a bit.
Then a toothbrush to get in all the cranny's.
Next just slather the chain again with the paintbrush and watch all the gunk flush out.
Wipe with a rag and let air out a bit.
While its drying I use the same Kerosene soaked rag (find a clean spot)to wipe off any old lube splatters or tar spots on my rear wheel and suspension.
Takes 10 minutes if done often, and it should be done often cause chains and sprockets are expensive.
Greg
 
Howard Roark said:
Guys, should one clean and apply lube to the chain only on a hot/warm chain? After riding it a bit to heat it up? Or does it not matter?

Thanks,
HR
Click to expand...

You can clean the chain when it is cold. Then warm it up before lubing or adjusting. The lube gets in to where it is really needed better when warm, and adjusting the chain should always be done when it is warm as the chain tightens up a bit when warm.
 
Oldschool said:
You can clean the chain when it is cold. Then warm it up before lubing or adjusting. The lube gets in to where it is really needed better when warm, and adjusting the chain should always be done when it is warm as the chain tightens up a bit when warm.
Click to expand...

Thanks OldSchool...I thought as much but an old timer I work with said temp never mattered...it set off some BS bells in my brain...but you have confirmed what I always thought, going way back to the late '70s...
 
Howard Roark said:
Thanks OldSchool...I thought as much but an old timer I work with said temp never mattered...it set off some BS bells in my brain...but you have confirmed what I always thought, going way back to the late '70s...
Click to expand...

When I have been to lazy, or the weather is terrible, I have used (very carefully) a small propane torch with a spreader to warm the chain before lubing and after cleaning. It gets rid of any left over kerosene and allows for proper lubing and adjustment. That way no need to go for a short ride in lousy weather in order to complete the job. Just make sure to have good ventilation.;)
 
Oldschool said:
You can clean the chain when it is cold. Then warm it up before lubing or adjusting. The lube gets in to where it is really needed better when warm, and adjusting the chain should always be done when it is warm as the chain tightens up a bit when warm.
Click to expand...

Wait...doesn't it contract when cool and expand when warm?
 
You would think

Missyl1713 said:
Wait...doesn't it contract when cool and expand when warm?
Click to expand...

You would think so BUT because of the design of a chain (pins through tubes on each link). When everything expands it tightens up the space between links. Don't take my word for it. Measure your chain (at it's tightest spot) when cold, then again when warm (right after a ride), then you will understand.
 
Hey Old School. I ain't no smerty scintist but you're on the nut.
I fought many times trying to adjust a cold chain. Just to have it way too tight and damn near smokin' hot on my next ride. Only adjust your chain when warm.
Also it only makes sense that a hot chain will suck in lubricants as it cools.
 
I have to agree with Oldschool and PackJack too. My experience is that the chain gets tighter when hot. I don't know the science either but always thought that if the sprockets expanded when hot that would tighten it up.

Cheers Bluey
 
From Honda forum:

bare


Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 47
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Some surprisingly Strange notions have been posted.
ALL chains are pressure lubed at the factory, the insides of the rollers get packed with whatever grease/lube that particular Chain maker uses. The Only difference between O ring and Non is that the O rings are used to seal the lube inside those rollers. This they do reasonably well. Stretch, on a new chain, at least the intial stretch, is from the lube being squeezed out from inside the roller and their pins. Without O rings to hold it in this happens much sooner on a non Oring equipped chain.. No News There.
So anything ! that either attacks or dilutes or otherwise degrades the lube in side the rollers is clearly Not Good. Damaging the O rings is not even close to being as important a consideration.. once the Roller Lube is Gone it's only a matter of time till Failure.
Soaking yer chain in solvents, bio-degradable or not only demonstrates a surprising ignorance of the chain's assembly/manufacture.
But some swear by it.. Go figure.
Click to expand...
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top