• Welcome to the Yamaha FZ1 Forums. Member registration disables ads and allows you to post and share. Register Here.

150hp <--> 100hp

N2OEQIP said:
yes its a USA model. So I guess this really confirms that the blinky light on them doesnt mean jack.
Click to expand...
ok so US models are ruled out, i spoke to a tech today and found the the ECU in uk bikes DOES differ to the ECU in US bikes. So next couple of weeks i'll have a dyno run myself and see if the UK model is changed by this mod.

Seth
 
dyno run on wednesday mornin

Rite well to clear this up for my own peace of mind i'm booked in for an hour dyno session Wednesday mornin so watch this space for details and readings.
Lets hope my power output is high regardless of wether this Mod works or not !!!!! :popcorn: lol

Seth
 
The results are in !!!!

Ok well first of all with all my mods listed below i am achieving a reading of

146bhp (76.3ft/lbs torque) at the rear wheel (RED LINE ON GRAPH) with a real world value of around 155bhp, as the tuner stated that their dyno reads about 5-10% slower.

So in figures this gives around a 20bhp (10ft/lbs torque) gain over standard as can be seen in the graph with the BLUE line being the reading from a standard 07 FZ1.
so that will do for me !!

Now the question of the "100>150bhp MOD" ??
Well if you look closely, you can see a GREEN line running UNDER the RED one !
Yep, doing the so called power increase LOST me 3bhp !!! So there you go,
if you have similar mods to mine, run the SOLID light, NOT the FLASHING one !

Dyno read out pic below. Seth

picture.php
 
NJFZ1 said:
Thanks for finally answering that 100/150HP question with real proof :tup:
Click to expand...
After speaking with the guy there, he was stating that he would love to test a STANDARD UK model FZ1 with all the Exup valve and Sub Throttle plates(FLIES) still on to see if the ECU would crack them open more to give a power increase. But as my bike is stripped of all the RESTRICTORS as such, we couldn't give a 100% final conclusion.
So ANYONE with a TOTALLY STANDARD UK SPEC FZ1, get to a dyno centre and let us know !! I guess the answer is, just read the mods page on here and get strippin !!! haha

Seth
 
Its your tune. Um unless across the pond widebands are read diffrent. But if you look at the stock fz1 on your sheet it dips 11's or 10's, thats a bit rich. you want like a 12 ish air fuel..
 
N2OEQIP said:
Its your tune. Um unless across the pond widebands are read diffrent. But if you look at the stock fz1 on your sheet it dips 11's or 10's, thats a bit rich. you want like a 12 ish air fuel..
Click to expand...
widebands ?? well the blue is a standard fz1 as released from the factory over here. As i said, the tuner from Quill Exhausts ( quite clever and knowledgable guy) did not mention ANYTHIN about my bike bein lean. He did state it was a little rich if anythin !
 
N2OEQIP said:
Its your tune. Um unless across the pond widebands are read diffrent. But if you look at the stock fz1 on your sheet it dips 11's or 10's, thats a bit rich. you want like a 12 ish air fuel..
Click to expand...
just read this and it states that 14.7 is the average petrol combustion mixture, so that my 13.5 is a little rich. Sounds like the tuner IS right bro.

here's the link. Air-fuel ratio - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Seth
 
SETH46 said:
just read this and it states that 14.7 is the average petrol combustion mixture, so that my 13.5 is a little rich. Sounds like the tuner IS right bro.

here's the link. Air-fuel ratio - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Seth
Click to expand...

You're right, but under WOT conditions you need a richer mixture to keep the combustion temperatures down a bit. Otherwise you end up with nice holes in your pistons or burned valves. Best power is usually achieved around a 13:1 A/F ratio, but tuners usually go for 12.5:1 to have a little bit of a safety margin. Not knowing what sort of O2 sensor was used for your dyno pull I can't really comment, but I do see that it starts to get richer as the RPMs go up so maybe you're ok.
 
Last edited:
NJFZ1 said:
You're right, but under WOT conditions you need a richer mixture to keep the combustions temperatures down a bit. Otherwise you end up with nice holes in your pistons or burned valves. Best power is usually achieved around a 13:1 A/F ratio, but tuners usually go for 12.5:1 to have a little bit of a safety margin. Not knowing what sort of O2 sensor was used for your dyno pull I can't really comment, but I do see that it starts to get richer as the RPMs go up so maybe you're ok.
Click to expand...
should i use a different map with higher levels of fuel at lower revs ??
simple question here, AM I GOIN TO DAMAGE MY ENGINE WITH THE CURRENT MAP ??
 
SETH46 said:
should i use a different map with higher levels of fuel at lower revs ??
simple question here, AM I GOIN TO DAMAGE MY ENGINE WITH THE CURRENT MAP ??
Click to expand...

Might not hurt to throw some more fuel in there at the 100% throttle column at lower revs. Will you hurt your engine if you leave it like it is? Hard to tell, but since I do see that it riches up at the top end you might be ok. Still if it was my bike I wouldn't want it running that lean on the bottom end. What map are you using?

I do have to say that looking at your dyno run there it seems to be extremely lean and it may be more a function of the O2 sensor that was used than anything else. If you look at the stock A/F ration then that's more or less what you want yours to look like (probably a little leaner). Do you know if that stock A/F ratio was done on that dyno using the same O2 sensor as well?
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top