Proton flush mount signals

You have to cut wires and wire them in, guess you could order the stock plug for the signals and make them plug and play pretty easy. They also have their own flash rate controller so you don't have to worry about flash rate. But one complaint i have it they can't sync to my flash rate, they use the power from your flash wire for a signal to know when to flash and the controller in the turn signals tries to match it. I have an aftermarket flash relay for my rear leds and the protons can't match it just right, will flash 4 or 5 times pretty close to the rest of my signals then get out of sync. then they will reset and get back to flashing at the same time and then get out of sync again. Not really a big deal and have thought about trying a different name brand of relay to see if it fixes it.
 
They have electric splices that are male and female that you can use also, or butt splice them, just need butt splices and crimpers. Some guys soldier them as well, I'm an electrician, used window splices and vulcanizing tape and it's been 3 years with no issues. It's really not hard to do, once you see the wiring. If you have any issues post up and a ton of people can walk you through it.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Has anybody had any trouble with getting an inspection using these lights? My old bike had front flush mounts and rear integrated signals and I would have to swap stock signals on for inspection or else it would not pass, major PITA.
 
Has anybody had any trouble with getting an inspection using these lights? My old bike had front flush mounts and rear integrated signals and I would have to swap stock signals on for inspection or else it would not pass, major PITA.

Depends on your state, but you might be able to get away with the front flush mounts. As for the rear integrated lights i don't see how those could ever pass inspection.

Hey I do have another solution for you...move to NJ! They did away with bike inspections here ;)
 
Depends on your state, but you might be able to get away with the front flush mounts. As for the rear integrated lights i don't see how those could ever pass inspection.

Hey I do have another solution for you...move to NJ! They did away with bike inspections here ;)

In NY some guys are strict and some not, just a hassle.

Its going to take a bit more than that to get me to move to Jersey ;)
 
Has anybody had any trouble with getting an inspection using these lights? My old bike had front flush mounts and rear integrated signals and I would have to swap stock signals on for inspection or else it would not pass, major PITA.

I've always had the front flush mounts here in Texas and never had an issue.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
Great thread, my Protons should be here tomorrow. Can't wait to get them on and clean up the front end. Got the fender elim put on last weekend and what a difference that made. It's starting to look like "my" bike....
 
Well the Proton flashers came in today so I hooked them up. Should I be able to run the driving lights with these? I wasn't able to figure out how, in fact the driving lights quit working on the OEM signals while I was playing around with the wires. Wonder if I jacked up the bulbs or something. Everything else works fine including the emergency flash with the Protons.
 
Sorry I dont remember it was last summer but the instructions were on the package. From what I remember it was very simple. + to + and - to - The other three wires were for diferent flashing patterns. If Im not mistaken I connected all three to get the strobe effect.

You are only connecting to the existing blinker wires so your running lights should have nothing to do with it
 
I noticed that there were three wires going to the oem blinkers and one of the wires seem to have no effect on the Proton's. Thought maybe the third wire might have something to do with running lights. Oh well, not that big a deal.
 
I noticed that there were three wires going to the oem blinkers and one of the wires seem to have no effect on the Proton's. Thought maybe the third wire might have something to do with running lights. Oh well, not that big a deal.

Yes, the third wire is for the running lights. One wire is ground, another running lights and the final one turn signals. I'm not sure about the Proton's, but most aftermarket indicators don't have provisions for running lights, just turn signals. Only one to my knowledge that retains the running lights are the Watsen's.
 
Yes, the third wire is for the running lights. One wire is ground, another running lights and the final one turn signals. I'm not sure about the Proton's, but most aftermarket indicators don't have provisions for running lights, just turn signals. Only one to my knowledge that retains the running lights are the Watsen's.

Watsen's no longer offer this feature as producing the harness to do this was too time consuming. I have the running lights on mine and am happy that I got them when I did.:)
 
Watsen's no longer offer this feature as producing the harness to do this was too time consuming. I have the running lights on mine and am happy that I got them when I did.:)

Oh that's too bad, but I guess if most are ok with no running lights then they save themselves some money. I had the original Watsen's and loved the running light feature. They were very bright, especially at night.
 
My running lights work fine as well...did they not come with an instruction page? They have the capability of strobing or flashing. Mine strobe when the signal is turned on. If I remember right there's three wires to the stock light, one is the marker light, one is the turn signal and one is ground. Check online, bet ya find a wiring diagram there for the Protons.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
It came with instructions but no mention of running light wire. It mentioned all the variables of different flashes, but that's all it mentioned. I'll take it apart at some point and mess with the wires again. Thanks for the input. Wiring is not my strong point:(
 
Installing a set on the rear now. Kinda pissed. I have a set on the front and they were set to DOT stock flash. They worked great (still do). I tested them on STROBE, FADE, and FLASH when I first got them.

I changed the front to STROBE and they worked great. I installed the rear and set them to STROBE too. I got strange results.

The fronts still strobe exactly the same, BUT the rear only does two quick flashes, then a break, then two quick flashes. If I put the hazard flashers on the front two are in sync with one another and STROBE great, BUT the rear two are out of sync with one another AND the don't even STROBE correctly.

Just some FYI on the Protons wiring:

Black = Ground (ground)
Red = Running lights (+12v running light wire (this is on the front only, no stock wire for running lights on the rear))
Yellow = Strobe (+12v turn signal wire)
Orange =- DOT(normal blink) (+12V turn signal wire)
Yellow + Orange = Fade (+12v turn signal wire)

Here's a video of my problem. Notice the fronts and how they have always worked on the STROBE setting. This is how I expected the rear ones to work.

IMG 0579 - YouTube

What really pisses me off is I had it all nicely shrink wrapped and ready to tie up and hide away.

I should have tested it, BUT my fronts have crimp connectors that can be unplugged. The rear set came with crimp only! So now I have to cut my wires a little shorter to replace them!
 
Last edited:
Back
Top