Which torque wrench to buy?

Hey Doods--I'm *finally* buying a torque wrench, but quickly got overwhelmed. I know the torque specs vary greatly on my new-to-me '05 FZ1 (got her with 7474 miles for $3k!) , but what range wrench should I buy? I plan on doing all sorts of maintenance, fixes and gentle mods.
Do I need two wrenches, one ft-lbs, the other in-lbs? I like Craftsman, just like my grandfather did.:)
 
in my opinion, the torque wrench is one of the most personal tools you can buy... I agonized for hours over my purchase... it had to have just the right handle... and while I grew up using an old beam type torque wrench, I've developed a soft spot for the newer mechanical models... the "clickers" ... but I didn't want one of those BS digital reading ones...

I ended up with a matching set of Snap-On torque wrenches.... one in ft*lbs, one in in*lbs.... the in*lbs one is useful for doing the clutch spring bolts... but most others are done with the ft*lbs model...

72948.jpg
 
I have 3 torque wrenches that I use depending on the job. They each will have a certain usable range so just one wont cut it. I went with the Sears Craftman ones. I have a 1/4" drive for small in/lbs torque specs, a 3/8" drive ft/lbs for medium torque specs (20-80 ft/lbs) and a 1/2" drive one for the bigger jobs (rear axle nut, etc.). The 1/4" one is the least used, at least by me, so invest in the bigger ones first.
 
May I refine the question? What's the least expensive torque wrench, that works, and one would use for common maintenance jobs, ie tightening the oil drain plug (which I've never done with a torque wrench in my life and yet never suffered a mishap) :sport12:
 
I have 1/2 and 3/8 drive both craftsmen and both are the "clickers" not the digital readout I still have my 1/2 drive that I bought back in 1985 but replaced it 2 years ago as the plastic handle lock broke but it still works fine
 
Craftsman Model 1019 labratory addition signature series torque wrench.
The kind used by Cal Tech High energy physisits and NASA engineers. Calibrated by the top members of the State and federal department of weights and measurements.

:doh2:
 
Craftsman Model 1019 labratory addition signature series torque wrench.
The kind used by Cal Tech High energy physisits and NASA engineers. Calibrated by the top members of the State and federal department of weights and measurements.

:doh2:

Vinny: Is that a drip I hear?
Mona Lisa: Yeah.
Vinny: Weren't you the last one to use the bathroom?
Mona Lisa: So?
Vinny: Well, did you use the faucet?
Mona Lisa: Yeah.
Vinny: Why didn't you turn it off?
Mona Lisa: I did turn it off.
Vinny: Well, if you turned it off, why am I listening to it?
Mona Lisa: Did it ever occur to you that it could be turned off and drip at the same time?
Vinny: No, because if you turned it off, it wouldn't drip.
Mona Lisa: Maybe it's broken.
Vinny: Is that what you're saying? It's broken?
Mona Lisa: Yeah, that's it; it's broken.
Vinny: You sure?
Mona Lisa: I'm positive.
Vinny: Maybe you didn't twist it hard enough.
Mona Lisa: I twisted it just right.
Vinny: How can you be so sure?
Mona Lisa: If you will look in the manual, you will see that this particular model faucet requires a range of 10-16 foot pounds of torque. I routinely twist the maximum allowable torquage.
Vinny: How can you be sure you used 16 foot pounds of torque?
Mona Lisa: Because I used a Craftsman model 1019 Laboratory edition, signature series torque wrench. The kind used by Cal Tech High Energy physicists, and NASA engineers.
Vinny: In that case, how can you be sure that's accurate?
Mona Lisa: Because a split second before the torque wrench was applied to the faucet handle, it had been calibrated by top members of the state and federal Departments of Weights and Measures, to be dead-on balls accurate. Here's the certificate of validation.
Vinny: "Dead-on balls accurate"?
Mona Lisa: It's an industry term.
Vinny: I guess the fucking thing is broken.

:cheers: :wazzup:
 
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in my opinion, the torque wrench is one of the most personal tools you can buy... I agonized for hours over my purchase... it had to have just the right handle... and while I grew up using an old beam type torque wrench, I've developed a soft spot for the newer mechanical models... the "clickers" ... but I didn't want one of those BS digital reading ones...

I ended up with a matching set of Snap-On torque wrenches.... one in ft*lbs, one in in*lbs.... the in*lbs one is useful for doing the clutch spring bolts... but most others are done with the ft*lbs model...

72948.jpg

Im with a the a snap-on wrench.
 
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