slesser
Well-Known Member
I like what Phil said.
I went the route of gutting BOTH catalytic converters instead of getting a slip on. I gutted the mid pipe catalytic converter AND the catalytic converter in the stock exhaust. I had all the tools, so cheap, and the bike is still quite quiet. I also maintain the stock look, which may not be desirable to some, but I don't get pulled over for a loud flashy bike. I may not have the best airflow, but it is better. If I wanted great I'd buy a full system and PC-V, but then I'd have noise and flash, great for getting pulled over, IMHO.
I blocked off the Air Induction System with some Roth Block-off Plates. I did the Lars Airbox mod and de-screened the stock air filter. I did the Copperdawg secondary butterflies mod (cut them down to 38mm).
After all this 'opening' up of the airflow system my gas mileage has increased by about 5-7 MPG, depending on riding style. I originally would get about 29-33MPG TOTALLY STOCK. I know MPG is not a concern, BUT the bike AT LEAST performed the same, if not better AND I have increased MPG.
These are all cheap to totally FREE mods that you would want to do anyways if you did any of the other POWER mods.
I would try them first and ride to get a feel for the bike.
If you go the PC-V route plan on the cost of a good Dyno tune to get the most bang for your buck.
The fuel line mod that was recommended is also a good one, just don't use the 1/4" fuel line. 5/16" works great and you don't have the struggle of trying to stuff a hamster up a gnats a$$ when trying to get the hose on the stock fitting.
Frame sliders are cheap insurance, along with front axle sliders.
Remove that damn center stand, it's ugly and added weight. Keep it nearby and throw the two bolts in it for when you need to do tire service and oil changes.
I can't speak for it, as I've not done it myself on this bike, but sprocket changes are great ways to move your power from a higher to a lower range. The normal standard is one down in front and three up in back. For this bike I think that would be a little much and if you do any highway riding I think you'd be disappointed in the high RPM's of the engine. If you go the sprocket route I do the 16 tooth up front first and go from there.
I went the route of gutting BOTH catalytic converters instead of getting a slip on. I gutted the mid pipe catalytic converter AND the catalytic converter in the stock exhaust. I had all the tools, so cheap, and the bike is still quite quiet. I also maintain the stock look, which may not be desirable to some, but I don't get pulled over for a loud flashy bike. I may not have the best airflow, but it is better. If I wanted great I'd buy a full system and PC-V, but then I'd have noise and flash, great for getting pulled over, IMHO.
I blocked off the Air Induction System with some Roth Block-off Plates. I did the Lars Airbox mod and de-screened the stock air filter. I did the Copperdawg secondary butterflies mod (cut them down to 38mm).
After all this 'opening' up of the airflow system my gas mileage has increased by about 5-7 MPG, depending on riding style. I originally would get about 29-33MPG TOTALLY STOCK. I know MPG is not a concern, BUT the bike AT LEAST performed the same, if not better AND I have increased MPG.
These are all cheap to totally FREE mods that you would want to do anyways if you did any of the other POWER mods.
I would try them first and ride to get a feel for the bike.
If you go the PC-V route plan on the cost of a good Dyno tune to get the most bang for your buck.
The fuel line mod that was recommended is also a good one, just don't use the 1/4" fuel line. 5/16" works great and you don't have the struggle of trying to stuff a hamster up a gnats a$$ when trying to get the hose on the stock fitting.
Frame sliders are cheap insurance, along with front axle sliders.
Remove that damn center stand, it's ugly and added weight. Keep it nearby and throw the two bolts in it for when you need to do tire service and oil changes.
I can't speak for it, as I've not done it myself on this bike, but sprocket changes are great ways to move your power from a higher to a lower range. The normal standard is one down in front and three up in back. For this bike I think that would be a little much and if you do any highway riding I think you'd be disappointed in the high RPM's of the engine. If you go the sprocket route I do the 16 tooth up front first and go from there.
