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Which levers...

The Pazzo and others with the 6061 (?) formula are more aluminum thus slightly lighter. The other knockoffs that are not the same grade have more amounts of other metals mixed in with the aluminum. They may be a slight amount heavier but still lighter than stock in most cases.

6061-T6
T6 temper 6061 has an ultimate tensile strength of at least 42,000 psi (290 MPa) and yield strength of at least 35,000 psi (241 MPa). More typical values are 45,000 psi (310 MPa) and 40,000 psi (275 MPa), respectively. 6061 is widely used for construction of aircraft structures, such as wings and fuselages, more commonly in homebuilt aircraft than commercial or military aircraft, yacht construction, including small utility boats, the construction of bicycle frames and components, automotive parts, such as wheel spacers, the manufacture of aluminum cans for the packaging of foodstuffs and beverages and in SCUBA tanks (post 1995)

7075-T6
T6 temper 7075 has an ultimate tensile strength of 510 - 538 MPa and yield strength of at least 434-476 MPa. It has failure elongation of 5-8%. 7000 series alloys such as 7075 are often used in transport applications, including marine, automotive and aviation applications, due to their high strength-to-density ratio.[2][3] Its strength and light weight are also desirable in other fields. Rock climbing equipment, bicycle components, and hang glider airframes are commonly made from 7075 aluminium alloy. The bicycle industry is also using 7005 and 6061 aluminium alloys. Hobby grade RC models commonly use 7075-T6 and 6061 for chassis plates. One interesting use for 7075 is in the manufacture of M16 rifles for the American military. It is also commonly used in shafts for lacrosse sticks, and camping knife and fork sets.
 
Thanks for all your guy's (and gal) input. I do understand how the cost is just so much different that it really does make one decide on the cheaper stuff. I do have a problem with the purchasing of stuff that has been copied and just because some kid that gets exploited by getting paid nothing in China, it's cheaper. That is not to say that I haven't done it before so it is a struggle shelling out more cash some times. Having said that, that poor dude in China also has to eat! I am also not judging people who do it because like I just said I have done it myself but now days I am much more conscious of it. I have quite a few buddies that have had to look for work because of this so if I can help someone keep his job for another week perhaps it's worth it...sorry if it sounds too preachy, I really am not just voicing an opinion :)

No worries. Good thoughts to consider. IMO.
 
Installing my pazzo's this weekend. I'll let you know how they are :D

I bought them because I get painful cramps in my hand when it's cold and using the clutch a lot. Man it hurts to bed when you're a long way from home. I didn't have the problem with my warrior or my R6.
 
Love my CRG shorties!! :tup:

Love my CRG normal length levers, and one of the differences to me was the variability in customizing the lever and the adujusters. They are something I see every time I get on the bike, so for me it was worth it because I enjoy seeing them the way I had them ordered.

The same would go for the GPR V4 damper. Obviously, that for me was more of a performance issue than cosmetic, but the availability of customizing and getting my bike how I wanted it was worth the difference.

For the levers, $180 over $60 or so shipped from FDB to have exactly what I wanted didn't seem unreasonable. I will say that in the end I usually will go with whomever provides the most product knowledge and seems to truly appreciate the business with timely responses and friendly staff members. I would have to say the people at GPR were some of the best ever, and that's a big reason HyperPro didn't get my $$$.

I think you'll be happy with either set of levers as long as you have them in the color, length, and adjustability you want.

Let us know!

Here's the CRG Roll-Clicks for reference.

Brian
 
Ok so I have to replace my OEM levers because I just plain hate them. They also may have been the culprits of the cramps and bruises I got after my trip especially the clutch plus my lack of ridding time. SO, like always I have to check everything out and came up with an interesting little fact. All the top end levers (Pazzo, CRG, and ASV) use 6061-T6 Billet aluminum, FDB use 7075-T6 aluminum. So of course I have to go and look at the difference in strength and 7075-T6 is way stronger than 6061-T6. The reason? Less aluminum and more of other metals. So it’s good that it is stronger but worse because it’s heavier. I assume that is the reason the higher end guys use the 6061-T6. Less weight = good in racing after all. SO, there was one last question I had about the FBD levers, billet or cast. Billet meaning machined out of one solid piece of aluminum which implies strength vs. a liquid that has been poured into a cast. I asked the guy at FDB and he didn't answer so since the term is missing from his listing and he won’t reply I’ll go ahead and assume it is cast. I know people here are happy with the product vs. price so I guess it doesn't matter. It does seem like a toss up if the FDB are casted as they are using stronger aluminum. I really don’t even know why I spend so much time thinking about this things...I think I'll order Pazzo myself though.

I am very happy with my Pazzo Levers, Gold Shorties with Titainium levers. If I had it to do all over now I would probably go with the same in FBD. You can't argue with the price and all the members that bought seem to be happy with them.

closeupmay152010.jpg
 
dont know how much imput im allowed to say since ive only been riding for 5 months. But i have the crg shorty levers and I absolutely love them! not hard to reach at all and can have the break set close and the clutch far for more ease into gear.
 
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