Valve Adjustment

markowinnipeg

Well-Known Member
I currentyl am sitting at about 44,000 KM and just wondering what is recommended for a valve adjustment? At this point I do not have any valve trane noise at all.
I know on my Nytro snowmobile it says 40,000 KM
Thanks
 
Well according to my calculations your at about 27,340 Miles. Normally the check is done at about 26,000 miles. I myself am at just over 30,000 miles and have yet to do it. Same scenario here with no valvetrain noise and the bike runs great. In my case, I just don't have the money to have it done, so what should I do, park the bike??? Not a chance! When or if I have the $300+ dollars to have it done I will. Until then, unless I hear the motor getting overly noisy, I'm just gonna ride!
 
Well according to my calculations your at about 27,340 Miles. Normally the check is done at about 26,000 miles. I myself am at just over 30,000 miles and have yet to do it. Same scenario here with no valvetrain noise and the bike runs great. In my case, I just don't have the money to have it done, so what should I do, park the bike??? Not a chance! When or if I have the $300+ dollars to have it done I will. Until then, unless I hear the motor getting overly noisy, I'm just gonna ride!

You know your the bomb right? Just sayin'. :)
 
I see here from some of the replies that many riders equate valve "clatter" with a need for valve clearance checking, when in fact, having a little moise is far better than having a few valves tighten up to the point they start to burn because they stop closing completely due to zero or less than zero clearance. This will end up costing far more than a good check and a few shims.
 
I see here from some of the replies that many riders equate valve "clatter" with a need for valve clearance checking, when in fact, having a little moise is far better than having a few valves tighten up to the point they start to burn because they stop closing completely due to zero or less than zero clearance. This will end up costing far more than a good check and a few shims.

On top of this the only other thing you'll notice is maybe small decrease of power. I don't know if it will be noticeable or not though because it usually has to be really far out of spec for that to happen.
 
I see here from some of the replies that many riders equate valve "clatter" with a need for valve clearance checking, when in fact, having a little moise is far better than having a few valves tighten up to the point they start to burn because they stop closing completely due to zero or less than zero clearance. This will end up costing far more than a good check and a few shims.

That may be true but when you have absolutely "zero" dollars to expend nor the confidence to check them myself, I guess it's a chance I'll have to take. Trust me, if I had a spare $300 dollars lying around, the bike would have been in the shop already but unfortunately I don't.

Unfortunately these bikes aren't as easy as my scooter was, which took me all of 15 minutes to check and adjust the valves. The "shim and bucket" system is a bit more involved than that and a bit outside my realm.
 
Was looking at your albums and really like the lower fairing in the Gen 1 and just wondering were you picked it up at?

Well, while there is a company in Spain which has distributors, it's almost always easier to find them used on Ebay and such. I do have the company info for which I actually have a thread about. If you give me a few minutes I'll find you the link and post it here. Thanks.
 
Here's the link....... http://www.998cc.org/forum/gen-i-mods/10863-geni-lower-fairings.html

Just keep in mind that they are quite expensive so you may be luckier going through either Ebay or the classifieds here or on the other FZ1 site. New are probably in the 700 to 800 dollar range and used you can expect to pay anywhere from 250 to 450, depending on condition. Just remember that the most important aspect of these fairings is that you get ALL the hardware that goes along with them. If I should come across a set I'll post the link for you.
 
I guess I will order up shims as the dealers here are way to expensive and head on off to my back yard mechanic. Thought it was about time, thanks

Before ordering shims you need to know what size shims to order. That means you need to check the valve clearances first. I gotta believe that at the first valve check you probably won't need to re-shim. Yamaha makes some of the best valves in the business. Just remember to record all your measurements for future reference.
 
Before ordering shims you need to know what size shims to order. That means you need to check the valve clearances first. I gotta believe that at the first valve check you probably won't need to re-shim. Yamaha makes some of the best valves in the business. Just remember to record all your measurements for future reference.


Gconn hit the nail on the head, measure first, order second. OEM is the only way to go. At 24K I had seven out of spec. The R6 at 6,800ish had 11 out of spec.
 
After all the talk about Valve Adjustment, I'm taking the bike in on Wednesday next to have it done. Because of guys out on vacation I was able to work two extra days which allowed me to get it done. Even though she's been running great, I will feel better having it at least checked out. I'll let you know after the 13th if any adjustment was needed.
 
Just got bike back from mechanic and all valves were within tolerance. A couple were close but still in spec. So all is good fresh plugs and antifreeze so ready for another 42,000km.
 
I suspect that this engine could run for it's useful life with no valve adjustment and it wouldn't fail any sooner. There are a lot of bikes out there that have never had their engines touched except for oil/filter changes and they run just fine. Not suggesting anyone do that but I think frequent oil/filter changes are more important than valve adjustments.
 
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