Using Mobil 1, Everything just gets better and better

Gohot229

Gohot229

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I'm going on a bit over a thousand miles using Mobil 1 synthetic, this is what I'v found.....

Shifting is silky smooth, it clicks into gear with the slightest urge, except for from neutral into first at a stop. this is standard on almost every bike made period. However rowing through the gears either upshifting or downshifting is far smoother than it ever was with petrolium based oils.

Clutch action is way improved, yet with no slippage when fully engaged and in gear.

The somewhat jerky takeoff or low speed throttle acceleration transition has become near perfect, without the "lurch" from zero to partial throttle. Take-off's are much easier to do smoothly.

There is virtually zero oil consumption and the oil color has remained like honey in color with verry little carbon contamination, if any. Mind you, this Mobil 1 synthetic, but I believe simmilar findings will be exibited with all the other standard Synthetic oils. There are signifficant 'possative' charictoristics being displayed when useing the synthetic to warrant its increased cost. I will never return to petroleum based oils again, theres a night and day difference in the 'before' and 'after'. Oil changes should be a do-it yourself affair fo all but the most sissy of riders, theres even several filters that have the hex-headed nut shape molded into the oilfilter to facilitate using a wrench to remove and reinstall it, for others a simple oil filter wrench from nearly every auto parts is available. Doing it yourself will offset the increased cost of the synthetic oil and appropriate filters, Compared to a shop price. It is so easy, every one should do it, and I don't think the warranty is affected.
 
Polestar said:
I switched to Mobil 1 at 3500mi and haven't looked back. (Use Mobil 1 in the 4 wheel beast as well):sport12:
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I have used MOBIL1 in all my motorcycles for years and absolutely love it. I even have the cool little MOBIL1 decals (just to show my love . . .) on the lower frame tubes of the FZ1. They are centered below the engine !
I have MOBIL1 in the Softail too and, it allows my Harley Twin-Cam 95 to run cooler, and it shifts so much smoother too. I don't have it in the primary yet, but it goes in there next, in about another 1000 miles. My Goldwing has always had MOBIL1 in it as long as I've had it. I simply can't find anything I like better !
 
With the tight tolerances in our engines, do you think that there would be a problem switching over to synthetic after 22,000 easy miles on my FZ1? I know they say in cars, if you have thousands of miles on the motor running petroleum based oils, that you shouldn't change over to synthetic due to oil getting past the rings. The FZ motor, I'm thinking, wouldn't have that problem. Any thoughts?
 
I don't think it's ever too late to switch to a synthetic, provided: your crank case is holding it's fill and you're not burning oil. I know much of what I believed about synthetic oil is not true of the modern synthetics. Examples: one may switch back and forth between synthetic and conventional oil. today, conventional and synthetic oils are compatible and may be mixed. (though I wouldn't mix them as that would dilute the benefits of more expensive synthetic.)
 
At 58K I switched to Rotella full synthetic on my FJR and the slight oil consumption has stopped. Bought Mobil 1 for the next change as it was cheaper than the Rotella.
I learned from an old boy to add 8oz stp oil treatment when changing oil, the high zinc content keeps the clutch happy.
 
Oil consumption

OneSizeFitsAll said:
At 58K I switched to Rotella full synthetic on my FJR and the slight oil consumption has stopped. Bought Mobil 1 for the next change as it was cheaper than the Rotella.
I learned from an old boy to add 8oz stp oil treatment when changing oil, the high zinc content keeps the clutch happy.
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If your ride is using a small amount of oil, a brand switch of the same grade often solves that problem. I discovered that in the heavy truck business. Not sure why it works, but it does.
 
Has anyone ever gotten an oil analysis done on this oil? I've been using it for years in my cars because of the good things I've heard about it, but is it really true IDK

Oh one more thing, how long do I have to wait to switch to synt. in my bike (new 07) just got over 1600 mile on her. I figured since it's broken in by Yamaha standards I should be able to switch without a problem correct? Maybe next oil change
 
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Gohot229 said:
I'm going on a bit over a thousand miles using Mobil 1 synthetic, this is what I'v found.....

Shifting is silky smooth, it clicks into gear with the slightest urge, except for from neutral into first at a stop. this is standard on almost every bike made period. However rowing through the gears either upshifting or downshifting is far smoother than it ever was with petrolium based oils.

Clutch action is way improved, yet with no slippage when fully engaged and in gear.

The somewhat jerky takeoff or low speed throttle acceleration transition has become near perfect, without the "lurch" from zero to partial throttle. Take-off's are much easier to do smoothly.

There is virtually zero oil consumption and the oil color has remained like honey in color with verry little carbon contamination, if any. Mind you, this Mobil 1 synthetic, but I believe simmilar findings will be exibited with all the other standard Synthetic oils. There are signifficant 'possative' charictoristics being displayed when useing the synthetic to warrant its increased cost. I will never return to petroleum based oils again, theres a night and day difference in the 'before' and 'after'. Oil changes should be a do-it yourself affair fo all but the most sissy of riders, theres even several filters that have the hex-headed nut shape molded into the oilfilter to facilitate using a wrench to remove and reinstall it, for others a simple oil filter wrench from nearly every auto parts is available. Doing it yourself will offset the increased cost of the synthetic oil and appropriate filters, Compared to a shop price. It is so easy, every one should do it, and I don't think the warranty is affected.
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are you still on 10w40 or a heavier/lighter type ??
cheers
 
I will ride my first 2k miles on Yamalube, after which I will switch to Amsoil. There is a reason so many race teams use it, it works, makes your bike run cooler. Catch is, if you use it you really need to use their filter, its the key to the system.

I switched a car running regular petroleum oil at 113,000 miles to Amsoil. The car now has 185k on it and going strong. I change the filter at 6mo and the oil once a year. No oil consumption, getting 25mpg at 70mph. Can't complain w/ results.
 
Bought the bike a month and 12 days ago. Just turned over 2200 miles today. I expect 15-20K by November :).

Still running on dino oil (rotella 15w40). In the next few weeks will switch to mobil 1. We'll see if this stuff is as good as people say. No major issues thus far, other than the occasional neutral 1-2 from not shifting hard enough.
 
We really don't need another go around on oil preferences, but when I got my Triumph Speedmaster I was surprised to see that Triumph actually suggests using Mobil 1 4T racing oil, which I was able to find at Auto Zone. It's the first time I've seen a manufacturer suggest an oil that wasn't branded as their own. I had to cough up $9.50/qt but Yriumph suggests 6000 mile intervals for oil changes so that works out pretty good on the miles per buck scale.
 
Octupi's choice of Amsoil is interesting. It is an excelent oil, excedingly surperior to petrolium based oils. Some years ago, I had restored a Bultaco Matador, for those unframiliar, it was a Spanish bike, a 2 stroke motored dirt oriented bike, many dedicated dirt only, and a fiew models for the street exclusivly

One might note the Metrella, a roadgoing racer which many owners cafe'd out, and which was quite a potent bike in Road Racing, along with the RD 250, 350, and 400's that Yamaha campained. In a roundabout way, I was given a sample of Amsoil 2 stroke premix oil. The fella that gave me the sample touted it's mixing rate for most all 2 strokes at 100 to 1, a virtually unheard-of mixture. I had experianced my motors running to the point of loss of power, a precurser to having piston seizure, however once I started using the Amsoil at the recomended 100 to 1 mixture, there was a vast improvement with zero motor overheating, and were talking riding up-hill towards Big Bear California from the lower elevation below of 800 to 1200 elevation all the way up to 6000 foot elevation. Ricky-racing mind you.

At the time this 100 to 1 recipe was a sure disaster with petroleum base, as your typical mixture ratio for this bike with petrolium based oils was in the 28-30 to 1 ratios typically, in other words, nearly 1/3 oil mixed into the gas for the 2 stroke fuel. I'm to this day sold on Amsoil, other than the premium price and limited availability, at least by location here in North Carolina. I have used the Mobil 1 because my Daughter works at Advanced Auto, thus I get a pretty good discount, along with adding to her company monthly sales, good for both of us.

I'v currently put about a scoush under 2000 miles on the Mobil 1 oil, and every day it just gets better. Another intesting note was Oldschool's suggestion of the use of STP due to the fact it contained Zink. It has been shown to enhance the shock factor and slipperiness of common oil dramatically, verses other additives used by oil manufacturers which contain compounds which effectivly when contaminated by condensation, form acids, cheifly of the sulphuric variety. Looking at a car battery post, one can get an idea that this is not good.
 
Gohot229 said:
Octupi's choice of Amsoil is interesting. It is an excelent oil, excedingly surperior to petrolium based oils. Some years ago, I had restored a Bultaco Matador, for those unframiliar, it was a Spanish bike, a 2 stroke motored dirt oriented bike, many dedicated dirt only, and a few models for the street exclusively

One might note the Metrella, a roadgoing racer which many owners cafe'd out, and which was quite a potent bike in Road Racing, along with the RD 250, 350, and 400's that Yamaha campaigned. In a roundabout way, I was given a sample of Amsoil 2 stroke premix oil. The fella that gave me the sample touted it's mixing rate for most all 2 strokes at 100 to 1, a virtually unheard-of mixture. I had experienced my motors running to the point of loss of power, a precurser to having piston seizure, however once I started using the Amsoil at the recomended 100 to 1 mixture, there was a vast improvement with zero motor overheating, and were talking riding up-hill towards Big Bear California from the lower elevation below of 800 to 1200 elevation all the way up to 6000 foot elevation. Ricky-racing mind you.

At the time this 100 to 1 recipe was a sure disaster with petroleum base, as your typical mixture ratio for this bike with petrolium based oils was in the 28-30 to 1 ratios typically, in other words, nearly 1/3 oil mixed into the gas for the 2 stroke fuel. I'm to this day sold on Amsoil, other than the premium price and limited availability, at least by location here in North Carolina. I have used the Mobil 1 because my Daughter works at Advanced Auto, thus I get a pretty good discount, along with adding to her company monthly sales, good for both of us.

I've currently put about a scoush under 2000 miles on the Mobil 1 oil, and every day it just gets better. Another intesting note was Oldschool's suggestion of the use of STP due to the fact it contained Zink. It has been shown to enhance the shock factor and slipperiness of common oil dramatically, verses other additives used by oil manufacturers which contain compounds which effectivly when contaminated by condensation, form acids, cheifly of the sulphuric variety. Looking at a car battery post, one can get an idea that this is not good.
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Sorry Gohot that was not me! it was OneSizeFitsAll. I avoid additives like the plague! The only thing on That isle I buy is fuel stabilizer.
 
Oldschool said:
Sorry Gohot that was not me! it was OneSizeFitsAll. I avoid additives like the plague! The only thing on That isle I buy is fuel stabilizer.
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That's what I thought but knowing people who have used this combo in bikes for well over 100,000 miles with no clutch issues I'm not going to worry about it.

The bottom line: clean oil- GOOD dirty oil-BAD
 
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