Using a USA ECU in an aussie bike - can someone help with US wiring diagrams?

chubs said:
...
Oh another thing! Are american gauges in degrees celcius or farenheit, or switchable?
Because thats my next purchase.
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For some reason I thought that the temperature was switchable between C anf F, but that is not the case. The US spec gauges only display in F, but you can switch between MPH and KPH...sorry about the confusion.
 
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Awesome, thanks NJFZ1.
I remember you saying that miles/kilometers were switchable, but not sure about C vs F. Glad to hear that they're both switchable.
Time to order new gauges and get this puppy on the road!
 
chubs said:
Awesome, thanks NJFZ1.
I remember you saying that miles/kilometers were switchable, but not sure about C vs F. Glad to hear that they're both switchable.
Time to order new gauges and get this puppy on the road!
Click to expand...

I have gone back and corrected my other post. I was mistaken and the temperature is not switchable. Displays in F only :( Not sure why Yamaha chose to do this since you can switch between MPH and KPH.
 
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Great to hear.
Well, i've now ordered a set of gauges from partshark. So much cheaper than oemmotorparts! However, partshark doesn't have the naked headlight parts... anyone aware of a website that does, and at good prices?
 
chubs said:
Great to hear.
Well, i've now ordered a set of gauges from partshark. So much cheaper than oemmotorparts! However, partshark doesn't have the naked headlight parts... anyone aware of a website that does, and at good prices?
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I am pretty sure Chris from partshark can get the parts for you. I think he may even have them as a "kit". Obviously you can't find it on their website since the naked FZ1 was never sold here. You can email him at [email protected]. He's great do deal with.
 
I emailed chris but got a reply from a guy called amier... he's extremely helpful i highly recommend him/them...
Anyway yes they sell the naked parts, so i've ordered gauges, naked style guage cover, and a new headlight because it was soooo much cheaper than buying locally, and some other bits n pieces. Can't wait for it to all arrive, i might be able to get it registered then!
 
G'day zeen.
Sure: i bought the 2008 ECU part number '3C3-8591A-50-00' from Amier at partshark (tell him i sent you).
Then i took my existing main lock to a local locksmith to get 3 keys cut to match (cost $40)
As for the wiring, i could take some photos if you need. Are you good with a soldering iron?

Edit: alternatively, you can buy an aus ecu + key + all 3 locks from a wrecker for $1000 seems to be the going rate. I didn't go that route because they couldn't sell me a master (red) key.
 
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I just realised i didn't take any photos at the time, and its a bit of a struggle to get at the ecu so i'll simply describe it:

Unplug your old ecu (and throw it out if you want).
There are two plugs going into the ECU. Grab the bigger plug.
Hold the plug so that:
* the 'ecu' side of the plug faces away from you
* the wires coming out the back of the plug face towards you
* the 'clip' is on the top
There should be 2 rows of wires

Along the top row, you should see these wires, going from left to right:
1 Orange
2 Red (black)
3 Grey (red)
4 Green (black)
5 Orange(green)
6 Blue (black)
7 Grey (green)
8 Orange (black)
..etc.. (I don't care about the rest of the wires)
* Eg Red (green) means a mostly red wire with a green line on it

Along left of the bottom row, it should be 3 black wires with gaps between them. Don't touch these wires, this step is to just check you're looking at the right part of the plug.

Get some tape that you can write on (i used masking tape), and cut it into 2cm lengths.
Wrap it around each of the leftmost 8 wires in the top row TWICE: Once close to the plug, and once 10cm away from the plug.
On all the bits of tape, write these labels (going left to right):
1 - Plug-side tape: 1 ; Far tape: A
2 - Plug-side tape: 2 ; Far tape: B
3 - Plug-side tape: 3 ; Far tape: C
4 - Plug-side tape: 4 ; Far tape: D
5 - Plug-side tape: 5 ; Far tape: E
6 - Plug-side tape: 6 ; Far tape: F
7 - Plug-side tape: 7 ; Far tape: G
8 - Plug-side tape: 8 ; Far tape: H

Cut the 8 wires between the bits of tape.

Join them this way:
1 - G
2 - H
3 - E
4 - F
5 - C
6 - D
7 - A
8 - B

* When soldering, make sure you do a proper job! Strip 5mm each side, twist the wire, 'tin' both ends, slip on some heatshrink tube, join them up, slide the tube over join, then shrink the tube.

This all worked for me. If it doesn't work for you, then i disclaim all responsibility.
 
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chubs said:
I just realised i didn't take any photos at the time, and its a bit of a struggle to get at the ecu so i'll simply describe it:

Unplug your old ecu (and throw it out if you want).
There are two plugs going into the ECU. Grab the bigger plug.
Hold the plug so that:
* the 'ecu' side of the plug faces away from you
* the wires coming out the back of the plug face towards you
* the 'clip' is on the top
There should be 2 rows of wires

Along the top row, you should see these wires, going from left to right:
1 Orange
2 Red (black)
3 Grey (red)
4 Green (black)

5 Orange(green)
6 Blue (black)
7 Grey (green)
8 Orange (black)
..etc.. (I don't care about the rest of the wires)
* Eg Red (green) means a mostly red wire with a green line on it

Along left of the bottom row, it should be 3 black wires with gaps between them. Don't touch these wires, this step is to just check you're looking at the right part of the plug.

Get some tape that you can write on (i used masking tape), and cut it into 2cm lengths.
Wrap it around each of the leftmost 8 wires in the top row TWICE: Once close to the plug, and once 10cm away from the plug.
On all the bits of tape, write these labels (going left to right):
1 - Plug-side tape: 1 ; Far tape: A
2 - Plug-side tape: 2 ; Far tape: B
3 - Plug-side tape: 3 ; Far tape: C
4 - Plug-side tape: 4 ; Far tape: D
5 - Plug-side tape: 5 ; Far tape: E
6 - Plug-side tape: 6 ; Far tape: F
7 - Plug-side tape: 7 ; Far tape: G
8 - Plug-side tape: 8 ; Far tape: H

Cut the 8 wires between the bits of tape.

Join them this way:
1 - G
2 - H
3 - E
4 - F
5 - C
6 - D
7 - A
8 - B

* When soldering, make sure you do a proper job! Strip 5mm each side, twist the wire, 'tin' both ends, slip on some heatshrink tube, join them up, slide the tube over join, then shrink the tube.

This all worked for me. If it doesn't work for you, then i disclaim all responsibility.
Click to expand...
Thanks Chubs this is good news I will order the ECU soon
 
I need help too

Hi I bought a FZ1 red 2006 repairable rightoff
but it only came with the black key - i didn't know about any of the immobiliser problems that come from not having the red key. does anyone know of anyone in Australia that can make a new Red key or can reprogram the ECU.
 
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