Throttle body sync?

B

Buildercher

Guest
Im doing my interval servicing= oil, filter, plugs, coolant & brakes. Anyway i have never synchronised my throttle bodies before, does anyone have pics or info on what to unplug & where the adjuster screws are?. Is this something you get the dealer to do as i dont have the sync tool?.
 
Your gonna need a sync tool, I found one on eBay for around 70 bucks, the tool pays for itself over time really, it's a simple procedure once you have it. I'd be happy to walk you through it once you get one!
 
Get the Carbtune. It does not have liquid so chances of spilling like the SyncPro and no need to buy replacement fluid for maintenance. I have the SyncPro and it has been a PITA since. Just bought the Carbtune for $108. Wasted $90-100 on the SyncPro
 
What happened with your Syncpro? That's what I have, and I've used it several times, no problem so far. Although I keep it in the house, am careful not to tip it over, and careful about not cutting the throttle while I'm tuning. Does the liquid evaporate or something?
 
I am sure it will work fine. But as anal SOB I am, I tried to do their initial gauge calibration recommended in the manual and have failed thrice with the fluid sucking in. I know SyncPro fluid will be more accurate than the metal rods in the Carbtune but I don't want any hassles with the fluid replacements, calibrations, remembering to cap the tubes and not put the gauge upside down.
 
Last edited:
Your gonna need a sync tool, I found one on eBay for around 70 bucks, the tool pays for itself over time really, it's a simple procedure once you have it. I'd be happy to walk you through it once you get one!

Cheers i will check out getting a sync tool at the local automotive hardware shop.
 
I bought the Morgan Carbtune from the UK. Great kit with the tool pouch. :D I have not done it yet but I did capture the important information from a couple threads over at the other site. (Link above included) Be sure to read ALL the way through those threads because the information changes a few times from page to page. By the time you read it through, you'll be able to determine how to do it.

The biggest things I found were as follows:
  • Do not adjust the #3 cylinder
  • Set the idle RPM to 1200 - 1300 RPM
  • Make sure the engine is at least 170 degrees F
  • Set up fans to keep the engine temp stablized
  • Make VERY small adjustments and wait between them. Give a small bit of throttle and let it settle after each.
  • Do not adjust the #3 cylinder
  • Get them all balanced at the 1300 RPM idle.
  • Check them at the 3000 RPM idle. Let it settle and check them again at 1300 RPM
  • Do not adjust #3 cylinder... (can't say that enough)
  • Adjustment screws are hard to reach! Hard to find in some cases.

These are a good start. Tony has a Carbtune aAND has synced his already with it so I know he will be able to fill in a lot of blanks. Hope this helps!
 
I read the thread but it appears this isn't the correct method?. Also the arrows pointing all over the place? WTF. Can someone explain in plain english what hoses to remove and if possible photos. It appears there are a few of us who would appreciate this and this will be a benchmark tutorial thread. Thanks
 
Ok, under your throttle bodies you'll see 4 brass screws. Under those adjusting screws you'll see nipples with rubber hoses on them. They are numbered as you stand behind the bike from left to right as 1,2,3,4. Four on the right, one on the left. Each one has two nipples on it, one side is mapping, don't use that one, it's the one that is all joined together. I'll go look at mine again today, but I'm pretty sure it's the right nipple. The hoses you want to use are coupled together one to three, 2 to 4. The plastic connectors you see these hooked together with are just plugs, I went to the auto parts store and bought a little box of various vacuum connectors, and I separated the hoses, and used straight through couplers to attach my tool to the hoses coming off each throttle body. One goes to hose one on your tool, 2 to hose two, etc etc. Do not adjust number 3. And the sync tool should come with instructions on how to calibrate it, and you'll use 3 to do that. Warm the engine before you do all this to 170 degrees. Once you calibrate the tool and get it hooked up like I just talked about, rev it to up to the rpms previously stated, and Look at the fluid, if your synced the fluids will all be bouncing somewhere in the same area of height. If your not, you want to turn the brass screw for each throttle body just a tiny bit, and rev it up again, (again, one throttle body at a time) and see if it bounces close to the number 3 fluid tube. (because that is your base to go by) do 1,2, and 4, get them to as close as even as you can. Oh, and important not, DO NOT chop the throttle off, meaning when you rev up, come down SLOWLY. If you don't you will suck all the fluid from the tool into your bike. Doesn't hurt the bike, but your done tuning until you get more fluid for the tool! Then simply attach the hoses back the way they were, and your done. It sounds like a lot, but it really is an easy procedure once you get under there and see what I'm talking about. The hardest part is getting your screw driver under there to the screws. :) does this help?
 
One note... if you get the Morgan Carbtune II, there is no fluid. They are solid rods with springs so no danger in sucking in the fluid. :D

And Missy? That does help a lot! Thanks!!
 
...
These are a good start. Tony has a Carbtune AND has synced his already with it so I know he will be able to fill in a lot of blanks. Hope this helps!

Actually Eric I have not gotten around to syncing mine yet. Will be a Spring project at this point. I think you got confused with the pics that I had posted a while back of me syncing the carbs on the YZF1000.

And I'll add that the Carbtune works great and is very straight forward to use.

And Missy thanks for that write up :tup:
 
Ok, under your throttle bodies you'll see 4 brass screws. Under those adjusting screws you'll see nipples with rubber hoses on them. They are numbered as you stand behind the bike from left to right as 1,2,3,4. Four on the right, one on the left. Each one has two nipples on it, one side is mapping, don't use that one, it's the one that is all joined together. I'll go look at mine again today, but I'm pretty sure it's the right nipple. The hoses you want to use are coupled together one to three, 2 to 4. The plastic connectors you see these hooked together with are just plugs, I went to the auto parts store and bought a little box of various vacuum connectors, and I separated the hoses, and used straight through couplers to attach my tool to the hoses coming off each throttle body. One goes to hose one on your tool, 2 to hose two, etc etc. Do not adjust number 3. And the sync tool should come with instructions on how to calibrate it, and you'll use 3 to do that. Warm the engine before you do all this to 170 degrees. Once you calibrate the tool and get it hooked up like I just talked about, rev it to up to the rpms previously stated, and Look at the fluid, if your synced the fluids will all be bouncing somewhere in the same area of height. If your not, you want to turn the brass screw for each throttle body just a tiny bit, and rev it up again, (again, one throttle body at a time) and see if it bounces close to the number 3 fluid tube. (because that is your base to go by) do 1,2, and 4, get them to as close as even as you can. Oh, and important not, DO NOT chop the throttle off, meaning when you rev up, come down SLOWLY. If you don't you will suck all the fluid from the tool into your bike. Doesn't hurt the bike, but your done tuning until you get more fluid for the tool! Then simply attach the hoses back the way they were, and your done. It sounds like a lot, but it really is an easy procedure once you get under there and see what I'm talking about. The hardest part is getting your screw driver under there to the screws. :) does this help?

Thank you so much, I have been sitting on my Carbtune for the last 3 weeks almost. I just didn't have the time and was also a little lazy about doing the research. Everything I'd found before was more directed toward the Gen I fizzers. Your write up saved the day.

My bike is idling a lot smoother now, and I just went for a quick test ride and from the low rpms 2000 up to 5500, there is no longer this lag that I was experiencing. It is a very smooth build up and I still get the kick in the pants above 5500. On the road cruising above 4000 rpms no longer produced an annoying vibration in the handlebars, and it seems the only vibration I'm getting now is coming from the chain.

Thanks again for doing such a good write up.
 
For anyone else looking to do this: these 2 images make it easy to locate what you should be connecting your sync tool to.. and where adjustment screws are:

zs5z.jpg


r5un.jpg
 
Back
Top