The Winter 2011 Bike Projects Thread

I have a few mods this winter.

Already done:

Oil and filter change
New did zvm chainkit
Lubed the bearings in the swingarm and suspension connections.
Installed a scottoiler
Took out the servomotor, installed an eliminator
Made a shelf
Took off the passenger footrests
Mounted a GSG exhaust hanger

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Mods still needs to be done:

New rear tire, Bridgestone BT S20. Should be on the european marked in january :waiting:
Lubricating the head bearings
Change forkoil, and mounting Hyperpro springs
Changing front brake pads (SBS Sinter)

And when the riding season starts (late march/early april):waiting: I'm going to get a custom map.

Edit:
Forgot to mention that the mod list should have contained some Roth VS, but they were lost in the mail ? :( and due to lack of communication from seller, I had to go through Paypal to get my money back! :disapproval:
So I'm keeping the stock ones for now.
 
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Since im not completely sure of the PO's up keep on the bike, ill just be doing good routine maintenance, flush coolant, maybe a new T-stat, flush brake system, and new Galfer lines most likely, and depending on the tax moneys i get back, Dales AIS kit, and the whole pod filter kit w/timing advancer
 
I am not doing anything to my FZ1. I am doing tons of upgrades for my mountain bike. What the heck! It is two wheels and I am excited so I am posting it here anyway.

Upgrades:

New Stans NoTube 29r ZTR Arch wheelset (2.4s baby!)
Sella Italiana Seat
Shimano XT crank & bottom bracket
Shimano XT cassete
Loaded Precission stem, seatpost, skewers, grips & post clamp
Easton C90 CF handlebar
Ashima Rotors
Powder Coat Frame - dropping it off tomorrow (1/12)

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Obviosuly if you are looking at a way to cut weight starting with the wheels is a good place! The benefits of saving weight on wheels are always two fold!

Later this year:
New Fork

Next bonus:
New frame (Ti)
 
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Haha your hooked. Just a little opinion about the Stans no tubes. My wife runs tubeless and I have to deal with it. You need to carry a minimum of 2 cap measures with you at all time and a good co2 unit. If and when you get a flat with the Stans and you lose to much of it, if you dont have extra youbetter have a tube with you. Also you cant set the bead with a standard pump so you will need a quality co2 set up. Oh if you get a big hole prepare to take a Stans bath. On the other hand since I mostly deal with it, she refuse to go back to tubes.
 
Haha your hooked. Just a little opinion about the Stans no tubes. My wife runs tubeless and I have to deal with it. You need to carry a minimum of 2 cap measures with you at all time and a good co2 unit. If and when you get a flat with the Stans and you lose to much of it, if you dont have extra youbetter have a tube with you. Also you cant set the bead with a standard pump so you will need a quality co2 set up. Oh if you get a big hole prepare to take a Stans bath. On the other hand since I mostly deal with it, she refuse to go back to tubes.

Yep, plan is to keep a tube with me for emergencies. For longer rides 35 miles plus I always carry CO2. I have a few friends with the same setup and they have had no issues to speak of. Of course we do not have the kind of rough terrain and more serious down hills to contend with. We just have big roots to climb over.
 
My only plans are to fix my now broken mirror. Then wash,wax and lube. Ride it like I stole it when the weather permits and then repeat the process.
 
Hail - You forgot to include the $$$ column!

$1,200 & counting. I can post that here because my wife is not a member. ;)

Frame is being powder coated. 2 steps. Satin black all over then a clear powder with crushed/powdered pearl that will be dusted on with a diamond pattern on the top bar and baked again. It will look like the top bar has irridescent snake scales. It is a Diamonback frame after all. ;)
 
Not getting far enough.... :( But I did get the entire fairing assembly off my bike. I couldn't find anything broken at all. What I did find is that the two bottom tabs on the fairing stay were bent toward the back. This sort of warped the entire fairing assembly and caused parts to rub where they shouldn't have touched. After getting the stay completely free, I was able to easily bend these tabs back to straight. I carefully inspected each mount point and not a single one showed any signs of a break or crack. Thus, I'm now assuming that the vibration will be gone with all the parts properly lined up and very tightly secured! What a BIG relief!!!

I have to order the paint kit from Color Rite for the 2009 Cobalt Blue. Today I will be putting on her full fairings and my lower cowl. I am going to look for the marine grade outlets locally but I have the ones I want in my Amazon cart if I cannot find them here.

Michele will not be getting a slip-on at this time. NH is getting too strict with the noise law and it just might not be worth it at all.

Tomorrow I will attempt some fiberglass work. ;) One repair is easy. The other repair is a lot of fine work. I need to get all four pieces 100% and ready to paint. The fiberglass is for the one crack on a front CD blinker pod and the smashed rear CD blinker pod. The one sport scoop with the scuff just needs some body filler and sanding. I'll do that when I am ready to smooth out the CD pod... rear one.

Also today I will be lowering the front of her bike a little bit more and raising the rear a little bit. The whole lowering thing is not quite balanced to where it should be comparative to stock. What would REALLY make a difference for her is a nice set of bolt-on R1 fork legs. What year were those with no changes to brakes, fender, etc???

Eric's FZ1:

  • DONE - Repairs to fairing from last off.
  • DONE - Install heated grip elements
  • DONE - Oil and filter
  • Paint and install Sport Scoops
  • Repair and reinstall the CD pods
  • Marine grade Power outlet
  • Rebuild GPR Steering Stabilizer (Gasket and fluid replacement)
  • Replace fork oil with 5 weight and 7.5 weight mix
  • Powder coat saddle bag supports


Michele's FZ1:

  • DONE - Change oil and filter over to synthetic
  • DONE - Install heated grip elements
  • DONE - Flush and fill cooling system
  • DONE - Fuel line mod
  • Marine grade Power outlet
  • NO GO - Possible aftermarket exhaust and hanger
  • Fab and finish saddle bag supports
 
Eric glad to hear you're finally making progress on the repairs. Not sure what material the Copperdog pods are made of (ABS plastic?), but fiberglass may not be the best option and I don't think body filler is good either for sport scoop repair.

I think you want something that's used to repair car bumpers in both cases. Should be strong enough and remain a little flexible so it doesn't crack. Some sort of epoxy might also to the trick to reinforce it from behind (if it's cracked).
 
The list is a lot shorter... not all of them done but darned near it!

BTW, the vibrations from the fairing are gone. It was only because the stay was bent and thankfully nothing was broken. It just sort of warped the whole front enough to cause parts to touch where they wouldn't normally. It all fit back together GREAT!

Eric's FZ1:

  • DONE - Repairs to fairing from last off.
  • DONE - Install heated grip elements
  • DONE - Oil and filter
  • DONE - Paint and install Sport Scoops
  • DONE - Marine grade Power outlet
  • Rebuild GPR Steering Stabilizer (Gasket and fluid replacement)
  • Replace fork SPRINGS & oil with 5 weight and 7.5 weight mix
  • Install new Penske8983 rear shock
  • Powder coat saddle bag supports
  • Repair and reinstall the CD pods


Michele's FZ1:

  • DONE - Change oil and filter over to synthetic
  • DONE - Install heated grip elements
  • DONE - Flush and fill cooling system
  • DONE - Fuel line mod
  • DONE - Marine grade Power outlet
  • DONE - NO GO - Possible aftermarket exhaust and hanger
  • Fab and finish saddle bag supports
 
Does Autumn in Oz count for this thread? It'll be getting cold there.... and I have work to do on the bike...

Fit the Akrapovic
Remove the exup system/or cables if I dont get an eliminator
Fit the Penske rear shock
Do the AIS removal
Fit the K&N filter
Do the air box mod
Clean up the bottom half of the stock headers
Reflash or PCV
Dyno run it
GiPro install
seat upgrade
Volt meter install
Re-adjust suspension for the Penske install
Fuel line mod if required
Maybe LEDs for indicator lights
 
Does Autumn in Oz count for this thread? It'll be getting cold there.... and I have work to do on the bike...

Fit the Akrapovic
Remove the exup system/or cables if I dont get an eliminator
Fit the Penske rear shock
Do the AIS removal
Fit the K&N filter
Do the air box mod
Clean up the bottom half of the stock headers
Reflash or PCV
Dyno run it
GiPro install
seat upgrade
Volt meter install
Re-adjust suspension for the Penske install
Fuel line mod if required
Maybe LEDs for indicator lights

It absolutely counts Scotty. Or, you can start the 2012 Mod List thread. ;)

How many miles on your bike? If you are already in there, you might want to change the plugs and coolant too. I say this because it's easy to work in there if you drop the radiator completely (only gripe is fishing the wires and getting them unplugged for the two fans) to remove the AIS system and while there, the plugs are VERY simple!

Oh and just do the fuel line mod anyway. Tank will be up/off and it's a cheap mod that will give you peace of mind. ;) :tup:

How many more days till you're (in your new) home?
 
It absolutely counts Scotty. Or, you can start the 2012 Mod List thread. ;)

How many miles on your bike? If you are already in there, you might want to change the plugs and coolant too. I say this because it's easy to work in there if you drop the radiator completely (only gripe is fishing the wires and getting them unplugged for the two fans) to remove the AIS system and while there, the plugs are VERY simple!

Oh and just do the fuel line mod anyway. Tank will be up/off and it's a cheap mod that will give you peace of mind. ;) :tup:

How many more days till you're (in your new) home?

Great idea Eric! :D Done....

Ah end of next week for the new house and I'll be home first week of april.
The bike shop is going to do the following while they have it:

Check For Diagnostic Codes
Change Engine Oil and Filter
Test/Replace Coolant
Inspect/Replace Spark Plug (s)
Synchronise Throttle Bodies & Inspect Vacuum Lines
Add Fuel System Cleaner
Inspect/Adjust Engine Idle
Inspect/Clean Air Element
Drain Crank Case Breather Tube
Inspect All Fluid Levels
Test/Replace Front Brake Fluid [< %]
Test/Replace Rear Brake Fluid [< %]
Inspect Brake Pad Wear [Brake Pad Wear Front % / Rear %] WORN
Inspect/Adjust Steering Head Bearings
Inspect Wheel Bearings
Inspect Suspension Operation and Condition
Adjust & Lubricate Chain
Grease Levers and Lube All Pivot Points
Inspect/Adjust Throttle Free play and Operation
Inspect/Adjust Clutch Free play and Operation
Set Tyre Pressures to Manufacturers Specifications - Front [ 36 ] / Rear [ 42 ] Psi
Inspect Battery and Clean Terminals
Inspect Charge Circuit [ VOLTS @ 5000 RPM]
Inspect Light, Safety Switches & Horn Operation
Inspect Thermo Fan Operation
Inspect/Adjust Clock
Inspect Major Fasteners/Engine Mounts
Cleared Stored Codes
Road Test

I'll do all the other stuff when I'm home...
 
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