Tank Slapper?

terdog said:
Im 6' 0", 225.

I went for 40mm rear sag as my starting poin, ATGATT.
My front settings are a bit more "personaly derived".
Ive ended up having 7 lines showing on the preload rings, which gets me about 20mm of unused, with my forks raised 10mm in the clamps, running a 190/55 PR3.

I have a bud with a Gen1. We rode some twisties, and I was on any line, but he could barely ride the outside. Later on, we traded rides. I couldnt turn his! It was truely ugly. I looked at his shock and it was full soft on the spring. It was like riding a Harley!
We gotta work on it.

I tend to play around with the settings a bit. I see alot of people who dont even mess with thier stuff (you know what I meant). Ya gotta work it.
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Thanks.

I was talking to someone about what I think is excessive dive when I'm on the brakes. So I said thatt I will increase the compression and he replied that it is the pre-load. Now I think I have too much preload, about 50mm unused) in the front and rear and need to increase the compression damping. Rebound feels fine.

As it sits I can carve any line within reason but it rocks like a rocking horse on acceleration and braking.
As you said Try it, Work it.
 
Do you have the stock shock? I have installed the SATAN's adapter and a R1 shock. Made a huge difference. And very cost effective.

I also tend to want more weight on the front end. Add 5 or 10 mm more of preload on the rear and see what happens. Go in large increments so that the differences are obvious.

Try increasing your shock rebound damping, slowing down the chassis movement onto the front.

Kinda the dog waggin the tail thing.

Good luck!
 
I'll play with it since suspension tuning isn't unknown to me but I like a reference mark or setting.

First I have to get a new 24mm open end for the pre-load, can't find mine and it isn't in the stock kit.

And I thought it was compression that slowed down the chassis movement down and rebound slowed down the return.
 
On certain road surfaces the FZ1 will Sometimes , start a gentle oscillation of the bars , usually at speeds of 80MPH plus....... This gentle rolling is normally referred as a 'Weave' and is quite gentle and controllable, ......Sometimes it can be induced with panniers .....
A proper tankslapper normally occurs when accelerating hard over bumpy roads or , rarely when de=accelerating over a bump in the road . It's proper lock to lock stuff and virtually uncontrollable...... The only tip I was given was to step on the back brake , hard , to snap the front back into line ..... If you are brave then you can try and accelerate hard to push out of it , but , a proper tank-slapper is usually too quick and violent to stop and consider your next move and its mostly down to luck.... My last one happened some years ago on an old BSA at about 30 MPH whilst Accelerating and hitting a manhole cover ...... Ended up in hospital..... A steering damper is a good insurance policy.
 
meinschaft said:
No. Where it happened is a long, flat straightaway; it's on my way home from a 100 mile loop I ride, and it's a relatively safe place (free of obstructions) to crack open the throttle to savor those brief triple digit blasts. As I said in my original post, the bike, now close to 20K miles, is running better than it ever has. This is the first time it scared me.
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Odd. Usually that bike will be rock solid.

Steering bearing toast? Yamaha steering bearings are terrible. Worn tires? Has the bike ever been dropped?

I agree, the first time it happens you need to change your undies.
 
rebound slowed down the return.
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True. Ying & Yang grasshopper. :D

If your happy with your preload on the front, you can add comp dampening on the front or rebound on the rear to control the pitch. Rear rebound will slow down the pitch without stiffening the front, possibly providing better feel on the front without harshness.

First I have to get a new 24mm open end for the pre-load
Click to expand...

I think the fork cap is 24, but the preload is a 14?
 
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terdog said:
True. Ying & Yang grasshopper. :D

If your happy with your preload on the front, you can add comp dampening on the front or rebound on the rear to control the pitch. Rear rebound will slow down the pitch without stiffening the front, possibly providing better feel on the front without harshness.



I think the fork cap is 24, but the preload is a 14?
Click to expand...

WooHoo! I sarted to play with the compression damping as that is where I thought would reign in the brake dive. One click increase, hmmm this is going somewhere. Two clicks, I like it. Three clicks and it felt slightly over damped so back to two and a quick 35 mile ride in my favorite (only) twisties and I was right. The front end felt really planted even over the tar snakes.

Now I measured the pre-load: Rider Sag is 34mm and the unused travel is 47mm. Would I need to decrease the pre-load?

The pre-load adjustment takes a 24mm wrench. Went to Farm & Fleet and bought a set of combo metrics for $29. The single 24mm was $12.
 
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