Suspension question

Fz1fighter

Well-Known Member
I've been looking at risers and bars, and it lead me to look at my front forks and how much fork leg is above the top triple. Is there a standard amount? Or is it just whatever suits the rider? Weight etc? I've never played with bike suspension so I NEED as much help as possible. Cheers
 
There is no *standard*. Top of legs is flush with top of clamp, from the factory.. for a relaxed 25 degree rake. Rider's weight has no relation to this setting. The reason to slide the legs UP is to decrease the rake, thereby making the bike turn in quicker and generally feel more responsive, at the cost of reduced stability and increased twitchiness. Sport bikes typically have 23 degree rake.

You can play around with this to find what works best for your riding style, but I would keep the increments relatively small. 5-7mm is enough to notice a difference. Doing 15mm in one shot will affect it significantly.
 
As a reference, I have mine @ 6mm showing above the clamps but I also have the Penske 8983 on the rear which raised the rear about 20mm. Only because I have a GPR steering stabilizer will I keep it this way. Without the GPR, I know I'd get a tank slapper if I lift the front exiting a corner. With this setup, the bike wants to corner all the time... she just falls right in with the slightest of counter-steer.
 
As a reference, I have mine @ 6mm showing above the clamps but I also have the Penske 8983 on the rear which raised the rear about 20mm. Only because I have a GPR steering stabilizer will I keep it this way. Without the GPR, I know I'd get a tank slapper if I lift the front exiting a corner. With this setup, the bike wants to corner all the time... she just falls right in with the slightest of counter-steer.

You bigger guys must load the chassis significantly more than my 165lbs. I have my forks raised to 8mm and my shock is at Penske's maximum recommended length. My bike is really stable and I see zero need for a steering stabilizer on it. I use a Scotts on my off road bike, but mainly to control deflection.

I had a 1991 Honda CR250 that would head shake violently during deceleration. It broke one of my fingers when trying to grab the bars after they ripped away when the bike went postal. I learned that when I felt the shake start I could lightly add power while I was braking and the bike would stabilize. I finally got the suspension re-valved and it fixed the issue.
 
You bigger guys must load the chassis significantly more than my 165lbs. I have my forks raised to 8mm and my shock is at Penske's maximum recommended length. My bike is really stable and I see zero need for a steering stabilizer on it. I use a Scotts on my off road bike, but mainly to control deflection.

I had a 1991 Honda CR250 that would head shake violently during deceleration. It broke one of my fingers when trying to grab the bars after they ripped away when the bike went postal. I learned that when I felt the shake start I could lightly add power while I was braking and the bike would stabilize. I finally got the suspension re-valved and it fixed the issue.

One question... when in a deep corner, are you "kissing the mirror" ?
 
its much to the rider's preference. my setup is 4mm above the clams. Rear with ohlins standard settings with a gpr damper too. =) search for videos in youtube which shows you how to setup a bike correctly, else visit your nearest mechanic
 
I've been looking at risers and bars, and it lead me to look at my front forks and how much fork leg is above the top triple. Is there a standard amount? Or is it just whatever suits the rider? Weight etc? I've never played with bike suspension so I NEED as much help as possible. Cheers

I agree with what Erci wrote above.

Start by adjusting the front forks 5mm above the clamps and go from there.

My R1 forks are around 12-15mm shorter than the FZ forks and I run them flush with the top.

I reckon I could possibly go another 5mm as the bike is still very stable and enters corners really well without any nervousness.

My rear end is 5mm higher than stock too and I find the bike goes wherever I point it.

The FZ1 is quite a relaxed bike stock and the wheelbase is quite long compared to a full on sportsbike, so you have a fair bit to play with to get it handling how you like.
 
I've only had the bike for a 2 weeks and I'm not really sure how they're supposed to handle ( I bought the first one I rode- rookie mistake I know). I've ridden plenty of old shitty bikes in my teens, never really tweaked them to suit me. Now as I near 30 I'm keen to optimise my bike without going full custom (I doubt i'm a good enough rider to push the stock suspension to its limit) YET!!) I'm never gonna hit the track, so just a nice stable and comfortable street setup would suit me fine. I emailed lee's spot on motorcycles here in Adelaide, gonna take it there to have them tweak it to suit me. Last thing I need to do is play with things I don't understand.
 
I've only had the bike for a 2 weeks and I'm not really sure how they're supposed to handle ( I bought the first one I rode- rookie mistake I know). I've ridden plenty of old shitty bikes in my teens, never really tweaked them to suit me. Now as I near 30 I'm keen to optimise my bike without going full custom (I doubt i'm a good enough rider to push the stock suspension to its limit) YET!!) I'm never gonna hit the track, so just a nice stable and comfortable street setup would suit me fine. I emailed lee's spot on motorcycles here in Adelaide, gonna take it there to have them tweak it to suit me. Last thing I need to do is play with things I don't understand.

Why are you never going to hit the track? The FZ is a blast on the track. It's a good way to get to know the machine.
 
Not all of us have a track close by or have all the gear in order to play on the track.

Distance is a valid excuse, gear is not. Most clubs will rent leathers and some will offer free gear rental on your first track day with them. Of course money is another valid excuse :frown: .. it gets pricey fast!
 
Distance is a valid excuse, gear is not. Most clubs will rent leathers and some will offer free gear rental on your first track day with them. Of course money is another valid excuse :frown: .. it gets pricey fast!

Distance isn't the issue. It's the money issue if I throw it down. Insurance in australia doesn't cover me on the track- as far as I know. Plus, the track just isn't my thing
 
Insurance in australia doesn't cover me on the track- as far as I know.

Interesting. In the states, we're covered as long as we're not racing (or some companies may say as long as we're not being timed).

They usually have good mechanics at the track here, who'll set up your suspension for you for about $40. (not that you need to go to the track just for that)
 
As seems to have been the consensus, its mainly a matter of personel feel.
I belive that the shock will have an impact as well as the rear tire.

For referance, my 07 has
* 07 R1 shock w/ Satans adapter.
*190/55 PR3
* no damper

Im currently running 10mm above the forks, with no stability issues. There is the possibility that when you adjust this, you may need to adjust other settings. So, if you try it keep your mind open to that possibility.
 
It was way too stiff in the front, backed that all off and no shit it feels like a different bike. Still feels solid and planted but not over the top. Love it!!! Best $$$ I've ever spent
 
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