Sub Throttle Plates

spew666

spew666

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Hi there, Just curious If I change the Sub Throttle Plates (cooperdawg ones) with my originals do I need: a) PC3 and dyno tune, b) Dyno tune or c) nothing at all.. Ive read all the posts with Sub Throttle Plates inquires and they all say More power, is this also true...Regards Jim:party0011:
 
I run the sub throttle plates, velocity stacks, airbox mod, K&N filter, and racing exhaust with no PC3. Good power and no issues. It's been that way for almost three years.


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Missyl1713 said:
Slip on


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Slip should be ok but I would definitely get a PCV with a full system.

I have most of your mods but with a full system and when I had mine dyno tuned there was a lean bog around 7000rpm, so I could have caused a bit of damage.

You would be surprised at how much better your bike will be with a PCV and a good tune Missy, especially after performing intake and exhaust mods.
 
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spew666 said:
Hi there, Just curious If I change the Sub Throttle Plates (cooperdawg ones) with my originals do I need: a) PC3 and dyno tune, b) Dyno tune or c) nothing at all.. Ive read all the posts with Sub Throttle Plates inquires and they all say More power, is this also true...Regards Jim:party0011:
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I prefer to run no-flies, the bike is more responsive & feels stronger in mid-range. Try both and see what you like:icon_beer:
 
I have been running A MAP sensor on my bike for the last couple of weeks. Most of my PC5 correction tables are MAP base now and no longer TPS based. My stock flies are still in the bike. The local baro pressure runs about 98 KPA this time of year. What I am finding is that the stock flies hold back the MAP in the intake to about 94 KPA on most WOT passes from about 5000 - 11000 RPM. I assume this is some sort of wheelie control / torque control by Yamaha. This clearly explains why you guys have found that these bikes pull harder with the flies tied open or removed. Most motors I test that have a good air cleaner and do not have secondary flies always hold ambient baro in the intake till right near redline.

I do run full time wideband feedback into my Power Commander data logging LCD display.

Beast
 
whittlebeast said:
I have been running A MAP sensor on my bike for the last couple of weeks. Most of my PC5 correction tables are MAP base now and no longer TPS based. My stock flies are still in the bike. The local baro pressure runs about 98 KPA this time of year. What I am finding is that the stock flies hold back the MAP in the intake to about 94 KPA on most WOT passes from about 5000 - 11000 RPM. I assume this is some sort of wheelie control / torque control by Yamaha. This clearly explains why you guys have found that these bikes pull harder with the flies tied open or removed. Most motors I test that have a good air cleaner and do not have secondary flies always hold ambient baro in the intake till right near redline.

I do run full time wideband feedback into my Power Commander data logging LCD display.

Beast
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Great work mate with your testing, i agree secondary flies are not needed and only hold back performance, my bike runs awesome with no bogging and pulls hard through the mid-range.
 
Chukka said:
what are these "flies" you talk of ?.thx
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They are the secondary throttle plates at the top of the throttle body. The bottom ones are controlled by the twist throttle and the top ones by the ECU via a servo motor. Obvioulsy even if the bottom ones are open (like when you twits the throttle) there can still be a delay or reduction in power until the top plates are opened. Popular mod is to install smaller '"flies" in the top position so even when they are closed some air gets through. Others remove them completely...
 
Idea

I have seen the video on cutting down the flies, thought about taking them out, bolting them together and drilling a 3/8" hole through all of them. Looking for thoughts. Will probably end up just cutting them down, just thought that this might be a bit easier and still let a bit more air pass through them all the time. Just a thought for consideration.
 
Jmcculler662 said:
I have seen the video on cutting down the flies, thought about taking them out, bolting them together and drilling a 3/8" hole through all of them. Looking for thoughts. Will probably end up just cutting them down, just thought that this might be a bit easier and still let a bit more air pass through them all the time. Just a thought for consideration.
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If I was to do this again, I would just remove them completely.
Try cable tying them fully opened before you do anything else just to see if you like them removed or not.
You can always cut them down at a later date if you don't like it.
 
ballmead said:
If I was to do this again, I would just remove them completely.
Try cable tying them fully opened before you do anything else just to see if you like them removed or not.
You can always cut them down at a later date if you don't like it.
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This is the single best method of "trying modded flies" and I second that. :tup:
 
whittlebeast said:
I have been running A MAP sensor on my bike for the last couple of weeks. Most of my PC5 correction tables are MAP base now and no longer TPS based. My stock flies are still in the bike. The local baro pressure runs about 98 KPA this time of year. What I am finding is that the stock flies hold back the MAP in the intake to about 94 KPA on most WOT passes from about 5000 - 11000 RPM. I assume this is some sort of wheelie control / torque control by Yamaha. This clearly explains why you guys have found that these bikes pull harder with the flies tied open or removed. Most motors I test that have a good air cleaner and do not have secondary flies always hold ambient baro in the intake till right near redline.

I do run full time wideband feedback into my Power Commander data logging LCD display.

Beast
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It is also for sound control too.

On my 1125R it had a solenoid that would close the butterflies if you went WOT in certain rpms. This was to comply with the EPA sound rules.

My first mod on that bike was to remove the 'noid.
 
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