Stator/Charging System

james_4182

james_4182

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I recently purchased a '01 Fz1 with roughly 45,000 miles on it. It's my first. It started to just kill the battery one day and through my research and trouble shooting I found that the stator is bad. I know that they don't normally go out often but I was confident with my findings and have one ordered. I go to take the flywheel/rotor that covers the stator on the inside with a tool that said specifically "flywheel remover". Well it broke off inside and now I'm wondering if there is another way to remove the flywheel:confused:. I drilled the majority of the bolt out to fit the actual bolt that holds it in. I tried borrowing a claw looking tool from autozone but the hooks were too wide to fit in the holes.

The part comes in tomorrow and I'm sort of stumped right now. Does anybody have a remedy or experience with this? THANKS
 
Ended up having to tap 3 of the holes on the flywheel and used a puller.

Long story short the mechanic said it was the toughest he'd ever seen. They had to torch it for a while just to get it to come off and it was still hot when I got home about 45 min later.

Finally was able to replace the stator and I'm back on the road. I just couldn't believe how difficult it was.
 
james_4182 said:
Ended up having to tap 3 of the holes on the flywheel and used a puller.

Long story short the mechanic said it was the toughest he'd ever seen. They had to torch it for a while just to get it to come off and it was still hot when I got home about 45 min later.

Finally was able to replace the stator and I'm back on the road. I just couldn't believe how difficult it was.
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I'm glad your back on the road James. I only wish that you would have taken some step by step shots of the removal and installation. It would have made a great "How To" for the forum here in case anyone comes up with that issue on their bike. Oh well, hopefully there is no next time for you.
 
Replaced Stator, Battery AND Regulator/Recitfier... still not right.

I have an 01 FZ1, with 36,000 miles. I have replaced pretty much the entire electrical system, and cannot get it to charge over 13.05 at 5000 rpm. I am about ready to put a half dozen 5.7mm rounds through the block.

Any suggestions? I've been to three different shops, with a notable lack of success.
 
Each AC leg of your stator should be puting out 50-60 Volts AC which is fed to your regulator/rectfier to about 14.5 VDC to feed the electrical system. If you're not getting good juice out of the stator then it's bad, if it's good but you are not getting about 14.5 VDC out of the regulator then it's bad or you may have something on your electrical "grid" sucking the "juice" out of it. Could be a short somewhere or something else drawing a bunch of current.
 
01 FZ1000, Prince of Darkness

I'm at the end of my rope with this bike. I have replaced the stator, battery, AND regulator/rectifier, and I still cannot get it to charge above 12.95 volts @ 4000 rpm.
 
I think the magic number is 5K rpms.

found this on the other forum:
The alternator is a Mitsubishi model number F4T361, 14V / 365 Watts @ 5000 RPM. The rectifier/regulator is made by Shindengen, model number SH650C-11 with a current rating of 18 Amps.
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What other stuff do you have on your bike that could be taxing the system? Also have you checked the state of your wires?
 
Shall I put a bullet through it?

I'm not running anything else on the bike... no heated anything, regular headlights, etc. I don't even have running lights... just LED turn signals.

I looked at the connections under the tank, and they all looked fine.
 
Sardog said:
I'm not running anything else on the bike... no heated anything, regular headlights, etc. I don't even have running lights... just LED turn signals.

I looked at the connections under the tank, and they all looked fine.
Click to expand...

Electrical problems are the most challenging and sometimes toughest to fix. It is hard to be patient, especially if this is your only transportantion or only bike, but that is what you need. There are so many hidden wires in the harness that it makes it hard to be certain about where the problem is. Maybe it is time for professional help. Someone that specializes in electrical usually makes it look easy.:confused:
 
Sorry I didn't take any photos. I found a website that had extremely useful information if you dabble with electronics and know even the slightest bit about multimeters.
Here's the link:

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

After I tested the stator and confirmed its bad. That's where taking the magnetic cover off gave me troubles. But after the mechanic took it off it sure was easy from there on out.

Btw have an extra voltage rectifier I need to get rid of for cheap if someone needs a used one.



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I am here: http://maps.google.com/maps?ll=32.886154,-117.135931
 
james_4182 said:
Sorry I didn't take any photos. I found a website that had extremely useful information if you dabble with electronics and know even the slightest bit about multimeters.
Here's the link:

http://www.electrosport.com/media/pdf/fault-finding-diagram.pdf

After I tested the stator and confirmed its bad. That's where taking the magnetic cover off gave me troubles. But after the mechanic took it off it sure was easy from there on out.

Btw have an extra voltage rectifier I need to get rid of for cheap if someone needs a used one.



---
I am here: Google Maps
Click to expand...



That website is a damn good find.
I think The Mods should check it out to see if it's worth "Sticky-ness"
 
internal wire corrosion.

Sardog said:
I'm not running anything else on the bike... no heated anything, regular headlights, etc. I don't even have running lights... just LED turn signals.

I looked at the connections under the tank, and they all looked fine.
Click to expand...

I would try replacing the wires/ cables from the rectifier to the battery (or test them anyway), even if the ends look good the cable could be corroded inside, and causing current loss. It happens with big trucks all the time, and is usually bad wires, not connections. When you peel back the insulation the copper wires are black and green. Also have you put in new brushes or tested them?
 
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