Sprockets

Hi there all,
I am open to suggestions relating to the amount of teeth you recommend for front and rear sprockets, Does the amount of teeth you have determine how much power you have or is that just crap? i see all these numbers and they mean shit all to me...Please explain.:doh2:
 
Typically most drop the font sprocket by a tooth (to 16T) and go from there. Lowering the gearing doesn't give you more power, but multiplies the available torque. The bike will accelerate faster as a result, but the amount of HP remains the same...make sense?
 
Hi there all,
I am open to suggestions relating to the amount of teeth you recommend for front and rear sprockets, Does the amount of teeth you have determine how much power you have or is that just crap? i see all these numbers and they mean shit all to me...Please explain.:doh2:

Regearing doesn't change the power, it changes how the power--torque, really--is delivered. The stock gearing is 16/44 for the Gen I and 17/45 for the Gen II.

These numbers produce tame power response, but by no means is the bike numb with stock gearing. Dropping one in the front or adding two in the back will liven things up quite a bit. Mine is at 15/45 and is good for the track, but I'm thinking about adding one in the back. If you regear, you'll need a Speedo Healer to get the speedometer back in calibration.

These guys:

Street Sprocket Applications Sprocket Center

are a great source and can answer all your questions about gearing.
 
Changing the sprocket ratio gives you 2 things at the same time:
with a 16/47 gives you a change of ~11% in the gear ratio.
THis means:
1- at any speed, your engine runs 11% faster.
2- at any rpm of the engine you get ALSO 11% more torque.
The popular 16/45 gives you ~6% increase in gear ratio. I have this set up and like it very much.
 
Hi guys,

Good thread.

I'm thinking -1 front (16) and +1 Rear (46) with standard chain (Naked FZ1 2010)

1: Is this any good?

2: Can anyone recommend a supplier of these chains and sprockets in the UK? A weblink to each of the correct products would be really helpful.

3: Are they easy to fit? (i'm not very good at this stuff but eager to try and I have the luxury of my dad helping me who always seems to be able to figure stuff out...Just thought I would go in armed with any relevant info).

Thx v much for any help you guys can give,

Cheers
Neil
 
Hi guys,

Good thread.

I'm thinking -1 front (16) and +1 Rear (46) with standard chain (Naked FZ1 2010)

1: Is this any good?

2: Can anyone recommend a supplier of these chains and sprockets in the UK? A weblink to each of the correct products would be really helpful.

3: Are they easy to fit? (i'm not very good at this stuff but eager to try and I have the luxury of my dad helping me who always seems to be able to figure stuff out...Just thought I would go in armed with any relevant info).

Thx v much for any help you guys can give,

Cheers
Neil

-1/+1 is a good combo if you don't do a lot of highway riding as the revs will be quite higher than stock. For around town and the occasional highway stint it should be fine. You'll have to get used to the power wheelies :D

Can't help you with suppliers in the UK, but just buy quality stuff and you'll be fine.

If doing it yourself and replacing the chain then you'll need a chain splitter (Dremel will work too) and a chain riveter to rivet the connecting link back on. Also access to an air gun to remove the front sprocket will be most helpful. Good luck with your project :tup:
 
so for all the people who changed rear sprockets,,,,,,whose sprocket are you running?
Steel or other?

I am running a Renthal 15T up front (CNC machined, hardened steel) and a steel 45T rear for a -1,+1, set-up. I corrected with a SpeedoDRD (made in the USA) for a 13.1% error. Best (seat of the pants), performance upgrade for the twisty's IMHO. :woot:
Avoid the aluminum sprockets. They are soft and short lived on a literbike. Believe me, I know . . . .:ugh:
 
so for all the people who changed rear sprockets,,,,,,whose sprocket are you running?
Steel or other?

I'm running a SuperSprox rear sprocket. It's actually a combination of aluminum and steel (teeth are steel, inner hub aluminum). IMHO on a heavy bike like the FZ1 an aluminum sprocket for the street just doesn't make sense. You're not going to notice a performance improvement over a comparable steel sprocket and it will wear out considerably faster.

attachment.php
 
I have the Driven superlight and It does what it should. I personally like the look of Tonys better but the Driven looks sweet as well


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I'm running a SuperSprox rear sprocket. It's actually a combination of aluminum and steel (teeth are steel, inner hub aluminum). IMHO on a heavy bike like the FZ1 an aluminum sprocket for the street just doesn't make sense. You're not going to notice a performance improvement over a comparable steel sprocket and it will wear out considerably faster.

attachment.php

I can't wait to replace mine when they are worn out.

Sent from my ADR6350 using Tapatalk
 
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