Marthy
Well-Known Member
When I decide to go all in and start building my own exhaust for the FZ6R I got myself the PCV and the AutoTune. It wasn't too hard to convince myself that spending the extra $$$ to get the AT and be able to fine tune my bike for my custom exhaust would be a better option than running it on the dyno, and it was about the same cost. I end up with a very solid map. Considering that most of the FZ6R Forum member use my map... I think I got the job done right.
Since then I got into more serious modding, since I can afford a bigger bike right now (Wife full time student for the next 2 years) I did the FZ6 cams swap (first and only one!) and re-design the airbox with different stack.
I did that early this year and I never got the tune perfect as I did for the first map. In a desperate move I went on the dyno and get the bike tune. But like probably any dyno tech. He got the bike tune at 100% throttle and pretty much dump more fuel until the bike start loosing power then go back one step. So I end up with a very good result at top end WOT but pretty much suck everywhere else. At + 30-40% fuel in the mid range it wasn't going anywhere when I was pinning the throttle at 6K.
Then I meet Beast here on the forum. He then convince me to get the PLX MAP sensor and explain me that it will fix a lot of my issues under 15% throttle since the MAP sensor is much more accurate. So that did fix and greatly improve the bottom end. So now I was at a point where I had a good bottom end and top end the the mid range (what we all use 95% of the time) did suck big time. I had 2 choices. 1- going back on the dyno and hoping by some miracle that the dyno tech can find and fix the mid range or I go the next step with Beast recommendation and take the plunge for the LCD-200. Since Beast was 1-0 with the dyno tech LOL, I got the LCD-200.
Beast was there to get me up to speed and was a great help to get me started. After a little over a week and about 2 tank of gas the bike run as good as it never been. The amount of information is just insane. Having the screen itself on the handlebar is already a great help to know what's going on in real life. But been able to log data as you ride give you the opportunity to fine tune for best ponies and fuel economy! I still have a bit of "massage" to do here and there. Mostly because I can and I'm on the anal side too. LOL
The way I was able to tune it is use the TPS map at cruising range (no pressure map compensation) so both map don't fight each other... and as I get on the throttle (roughly over 80psi) the pressure map give me more fuel for an extra woop. (13.8-14.2 at cruising speed, steady throttle and 12.8-13.2 for more power)
There many ways to do it but this is the route I took and it's been working well for me so far. I would more than likely give it another shot on the dyno just to compare some numbers just for fun. There's a few bike night around here with dyno run (for tips) I might use it to tune the top end with 4th gear pull with data...lol
Thanks a lot Beast for your help! :sport12:
Martin
Since then I got into more serious modding, since I can afford a bigger bike right now (Wife full time student for the next 2 years) I did the FZ6 cams swap (first and only one!) and re-design the airbox with different stack.
I did that early this year and I never got the tune perfect as I did for the first map. In a desperate move I went on the dyno and get the bike tune. But like probably any dyno tech. He got the bike tune at 100% throttle and pretty much dump more fuel until the bike start loosing power then go back one step. So I end up with a very good result at top end WOT but pretty much suck everywhere else. At + 30-40% fuel in the mid range it wasn't going anywhere when I was pinning the throttle at 6K.
Then I meet Beast here on the forum. He then convince me to get the PLX MAP sensor and explain me that it will fix a lot of my issues under 15% throttle since the MAP sensor is much more accurate. So that did fix and greatly improve the bottom end. So now I was at a point where I had a good bottom end and top end the the mid range (what we all use 95% of the time) did suck big time. I had 2 choices. 1- going back on the dyno and hoping by some miracle that the dyno tech can find and fix the mid range or I go the next step with Beast recommendation and take the plunge for the LCD-200. Since Beast was 1-0 with the dyno tech LOL, I got the LCD-200.
Beast was there to get me up to speed and was a great help to get me started. After a little over a week and about 2 tank of gas the bike run as good as it never been. The amount of information is just insane. Having the screen itself on the handlebar is already a great help to know what's going on in real life. But been able to log data as you ride give you the opportunity to fine tune for best ponies and fuel economy! I still have a bit of "massage" to do here and there. Mostly because I can and I'm on the anal side too. LOL
The way I was able to tune it is use the TPS map at cruising range (no pressure map compensation) so both map don't fight each other... and as I get on the throttle (roughly over 80psi) the pressure map give me more fuel for an extra woop. (13.8-14.2 at cruising speed, steady throttle and 12.8-13.2 for more power)
There many ways to do it but this is the route I took and it's been working well for me so far. I would more than likely give it another shot on the dyno just to compare some numbers just for fun. There's a few bike night around here with dyno run (for tips) I might use it to tune the top end with 4th gear pull with data...lol
Thanks a lot Beast for your help! :sport12:
Martin
