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Running on two cylinders...

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blue09

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Aug 26, 2013
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09 FZ1, 24,000 miles. Basically stock except for slip on and AIS block.

When I was troubleshooting a vibration issue awhile back I went ahead and bought a new set of coils. Got them on EBAY, new from RMSTATOR, $170.

External Ignition Cap Coil Yamaha Motorcycles 2002 2013 | eBay

I decided to go ahead and put them in yesterday, figured why not, should not hurt anything. Bike started fine, took off on a test ride, and after about five minutes the display went blank and the bike died. Checked fuses...Ignition fuse was blown. Put the spare in, it started right back up and ran fine, for another five minutes. Nearing my house it started missing, then the fuse blew again.

Troubleshooting today I figure just start back with the stock coils. Put them in, and it is running bad...feel the headers, 1 and 4 cold, 2 and 3 hot. Swap coils around, no change.

The engine light stays on while its running, but no codes when I do the read.

And the terrible part is my brother is flying in from Delaware tomorrow night and we were going to spend a week riding together in Colorado! He was going to ride the FZ1 and me on the other bike (VFR).

I am stumped...

Thanks...
 
Do you have a tester to test the coil resistance? Here's a snip:

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Mmh check that all connections are proper seated. You must have distrubed something when you did the swapp.
Check all the cables for wear, check that everything is connected properly. Go slowly and step by step through everything which you did during the swap and during any other maintenance before the last ride of the Fz1.
If the fuse blows it sounds like a faulty connector or cable, there must be somewhere a short cut in the circuit otherwise the fuse would not blow.
 
The stock coils ohm out fine.

The RMSTATOR coils do not, they have a lower primary coil resistance (like around .5 ohms) and secondary is only 4.6K ohms. They all had the same readings.

My current theory is that the RMSTATOR coils have fried the ECU, and it is the ECU that is drawing excess current and blowing the Ignition fuse.

Do the coil wires go directly to the ECU? I don't have a schematic.
 
blue09 said:
Excellent...this will be helpful. Thanks!
Click to expand...

I have had tried many coil combinations and want to make sure I am putting the right connectors on the right coils. I have the blue tape on cylinder #1, red tape is on #3. The one shown to the right of the red tape is on #4. Next to the blue tape is on #2.

#1 is the left one as I am sitting on the bike.
 
Last edited:
blue09 said:
I have had tried many coil combinations and want to make sure I am putting the right connectors on the right coils. I have the blue tape on cylinder #1, red tape is on #3. The one shown to the right of the red tape is on #4. Next to the blue tape is on #2.

#1 is the left one as I am sitting on the bike.
Click to expand...

Do you have a wiring diagram? Go buy the wire colors to make to make sure the connectors are on the right coils. Mixing up ignition coils won't make the ignition fuse blow. Maybe it's all related to the vibration you were having?
 
Well there must be a short when the fuse is blowing! Check all cables and connectors. Just plugging and unplugging everything is ok but a systematic approach is needed.

In your case I would bring the bike to a local shop and have it checked. This is not meant offensive in any way, but from your statements, I read that you do not have the right tools (circuit plans) and experience (the ECU can not be fried from an ignition coil) to do this fast by yourself. Troubleshooting electrical problems can be very hard even for experts and given your tight schedule I would really ask a shop to do it.
 
Update...

Its the ECU.

The circuit is very simple, with the 4 connectors going to the four coils. The right side pin of each connector goes to a switched 12 volts. The left side pin is a wire that goes directly to the ECU, so four left side pins, four wires to the ECU.

The four 12 volt wires are all good and go to 12 volts when they key is switched on.

Cylinder 2,3, and 4 left side pins all go to ~10.4 volts with key on when referenced to ground. Cylinder 1 left pin reads zero volts with key on.

Ohm all left connector pins to ground...2,3,4 all open...1 is shorted to ground.

Trace the short and it is inside the ECU. Unplug the ECU connector and the short goes away from the #1 left pin.

So the new aftermarket coils had much lower primary coil resistance and blew the ignition fuse after five minutes of running. I put another 15 amp in, it ran for another five minutes to almost get me home. The only other spare was a 20 amp which got me home but was running real bad at that point. I think maybe the extra 5 amps with the bigger fuse was enough to blow one of the ECU outputs and short it to ground internally.

Since the left pin on #1 is shorted to ground....when I put a coil in there and connect the connector and start (running on two cylinders) it will blow the fuse again because it is a 12 volt to ground short on that coil. With #1 disconnected and 2,3,4 connected the fuse does not blow.

The only bit of confusion is why #4 does not run, all signals to it are identical to #2 and #3, I can find no problem with #4.

Maybe its something about the way the ECU fires 1-4, 2-3, which I read somewhere on here.

Shopping for a new ECU now and trying to get a refund on those RMSTATOR coils....I would advise NOT to use those coils...only use OEM.
 
That totally blows! Don't know about used ones but you can get a new one from Partshark for $513.16 + shipping. ENGINE CONTROL UNIT Part# 3C3-8591A-60-00
 
I have been searching but did not see that one. The part number is slightly different, with the -50 versus -60 on mine. But I suspect the 08 would work in an 09?
 
blue09 said:
I have been searching but did not see that one. The part number is slightly different, with the -50 versus -60 on mine. But I suspect the 08 would work in an 09?
Click to expand...

Yup. The 50 was for the '08, the 60 is the '09... 2007 was 30 & 31 in the same year. 2012 is an 80 # ;)
 
blue09 said:
Its the ECU.

The circuit is very simple, with the 4 connectors going to the four coils. The right side pin of each connector goes to a switched 12 volts. The left side pin is a wire that goes directly to the ECU, so four left side pins, four wires to the ECU.

The four 12 volt wires are all good and go to 12 volts when they key is switched on.

Cylinder 2,3, and 4 left side pins all go to ~10.4 volts with key on when referenced to ground. Cylinder 1 left pin reads zero volts with key on.

Ohm all left connector pins to ground...2,3,4 all open...1 is shorted to ground.

Trace the short and it is inside the ECU. Unplug the ECU connector and the short goes away from the #1 left pin.

So the new aftermarket coils had much lower primary coil resistance and blew the ignition fuse after five minutes of running. I put another 15 amp in, it ran for another five minutes to almost get me home. The only other spare was a 20 amp which got me home but was running real bad at that point. I think maybe the extra 5 amps with the bigger fuse was enough to blow one of the ECU outputs and short it to ground internally.

Since the left pin on #1 is shorted to ground....when I put a coil in there and connect the connector and start (running on two cylinders) it will blow the fuse again because it is a 12 volt to ground short on that coil. With #1 disconnected and 2,3,4 connected the fuse does not blow.

The only bit of confusion is why #4 does not run, all signals to it are identical to #2 and #3, I can find no problem with #4.

Maybe its something about the way the ECU fires 1-4, 2-3, which I read somewhere on here.

Shopping for a new ECU now and trying to get a refund on those RMSTATOR coils....I would advise NOT to use those coils...only use OEM.
Click to expand...


Wow, bravo on the trouble shooting first off. That really sucks though. Maybe check online scrapyards or EBAY for a new ECU? Not a part that typically fails so should be relatively safe to use one. Thanks for the heads up on the coils, I might be in for some soon.
 
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