Question regarding oil weight for engine break-in.

[RavenFZ1]

I recently purchased a new 2009 FZ1 and I'm having a blast with it, even though I'm holding back a bit during the engine break-in period. I have read through many threads about engine break-in and many theories about the best way to break the engine in... don't worry I'm not asking about that.

I dropped by the dealership today to buy some oil change supplies, and they sold me 20w50 oil stating that this is the oil I should use due to the hot weather (regardless of rather my engine is still in the break-in period or not). I only have about 120 miles on the bike right now and I was planning to go ahead and change the oil to drain out metal particles, then change it again at about 600 miles.

My question is, is there any reason NOT to use 20w50 oil during the break-in period? Is this oil too thick to allow proper break-in... or am I over-thinking things? Thanks in advance.

 

[NJFZ1]

I recently purchased a new 2009 FZ1 and I'm having a blast with it, even though I'm holding back a bit during the engine break-in period. I have read through many threads about engine break-in and many theories about the best way to break the engine in... don't worry I'm not asking about that.

I dropped by the dealership today to buy some oil change supplies, and they sold me 20w50 oil stating that this is the oil I should use due to the hot weather (regardless of rather my engine is still in the break-in period or not). I only have about 120 miles on the bike right now and I was planning to go ahead and change the oil to drain out metal particles, then change it again at about 600 miles.

My question is, is there any reason NOT to use 20w50 oil during the break-in period? Is this oil too thick to allow proper break-in... or am I over-thinking things? Thanks in advance.

In the heat of Summer that oil is fine, but 10W40 would have worked just as well and personally I would have preferred it. I see no reason to use 20W50 in a modern motorcycle engine unless you're racing it.

 

[Howard Roark]

I would ignore what the dealer tells you. I would go with the official Yamaha manual...the lighter 10w will mean faster circulation during first of the morning start ups, and that means less wear and tear.

Also, I would NOT change out the factory oil so soon...this may make you feel better but adds no benefits to the engine and in fact might be detrimental because Yamaha might have put special chemicals in the factory fill to facilitate break in.

Stop being led by your feelings and go with what the official manual says...the metal particles you worry about are trapped in the filter, and the ones too small to be trapped there are not in the motor long enough to do any damage, as you're supposed to change out the oil at 600 miles anyways.

Don't waste your hard earned money ;-)

I have the same bike, year, etc, and I didn't change out the oil until a hair after 600 miles. Changed the filter too and used 10w-40 per the manual. This grade should be sufficient for where you live...now if you lived in Phoenix then perhaps the heavier 20w would be appropriate...but maybe not.