Question about AIS Blocking

bsly

Well-Known Member
How hard or easy is it to access the AIS hose to put a marble into it? Will I have to remove the gas tank? I'm after the quickest method to blocking the AIS with the least amount of work. I might eventually remove the entire AIS set up, but for now I just want a quick fix. Thanks!
 
How hard or easy is it to access the AIS hose to put a marble into it? Will I have to remove the gas tank? I'm after the quickest method to blocking the AIS with the least amount of work. I might eventually remove the entire AIS set up, but for now I just want a quick fix. Thanks!

You do not need to remove the tank though it does make it easier. At a minimum prop the tank up as far as you can without hurting your fuel line and vents. You will need to remove the airbox cover and velocity stacks. The the lower part of the air box will come off so that you can access the hose. It is connected to the bottom left side of the airbox bottom. I would also disconnect power to the AIS air pump just to make sure it does not burn up.

The only real benefit to complete removal is aesthetic.
 
Or, for a quick fix, do as Brad says but after removing the cover to the airbox, just cap off the pipe right there with a rubber plug and a clamp to be sure it doesn't come off. :D
 
You do not need to remove the tank though it does make it easier. At a minimum prop the tank up as far as you can without hurting your fuel line and vents. You will need to remove the airbox cover and velocity stacks. The the lower part of the air box will come off so that you can access the hose. It is connected to the bottom left side of the airbox bottom. I would also disconnect power to the AIS air pump just to make sure it does not burn up.

The only real benefit to complete removal is aesthetic.

Brad I was wondering about the AIS pump. It looked like you cut the wires on the pump. Did you, or do they just unplug? I assume that you dont get error codes or you would have mentioned it.
 
Brad I was wondering about the AIS pump. It looked like you cut the wires on the pump. Did you, or do they just unplug? I assume that you dont get error codes or you would have mentioned it.

I cut it at first because I could not reach the coupling. If you remember, I was not on very good terms with that pump and just wanted that sucker out of my way. lol

No error codes at all. Just disconnect.
 
Thanks everyone for the useful info. I am glad I dont have to drain and remove the gas tank!

You would not need to drain it anyway. It is basically valved and fuel will only come out when suction is applied. Pop of the connection and you may get 1 drop of fuel.
 
For what it's worth, a 9/16" bolt cut down to about 1" long and a slot cut in it worked great for me. Detached the hose from the bottom of the airbox, threaded in the plug, and reattached the hose to the airbox.

Good Luck,

MrHix
 
MrHix, thats a great idea. Much better than using a marble. I'm either going to plug it with a vacuum plug inside the airbox (if I can find one) or I'll use your bolt idea.
 
I like the bolt idea! I used a nut & bolt to block the filter inlet as in the copperdawg video, and I actually found a drywall screw insert fit perfectly in the hose and threaded that in to block the hose. I like however the bolt in the hose idea but honestly I think I'll spring for the 22 bucks and get the plates and toss aside the extra baggage.

That said, quick GAS tank re-assembly question:

When it was all put back together I noticed if I tug on the front of the tank left to right it will wiggle a bit. The flex is coming from the left and right allen bolts. They thread into what appears to be a tab of some sort.. not a nut or threads into the frame. Is this normal?

I can't say I giggled the tank before removal so I'm not sure if something is not right. I can say all bolts are snug and none are sitting on my workbench. I just need someone that has experience with this or maybe can go tug on your tank a bit up front and let me know if you feel any play. It is subtle but there none the less so it is bugging me...

thanks in advance...
 
Last edited:
I like the bolt idea! I used a nut & bolt to block the filter inlet as in the copperdawg video, and I actually found a drywall screw insert fit perfectly in the hose and threaded that in to block the hose. I like however the bolt in the hose idea but honestly I think I'll spring for the 22 bucks and get the plates and toss aside the extra baggage.

That said, quick GAS tank re-assembly question:

When it was all put back together I noticed if I tug on the front of the tank left to right it will wiggle a bit. The flex is coming from the left and right allen bolts. They thread into what appears to be a tab of some sort.. not a nut or threads into the frame. Is this normal?

I can't say I giggled the tank before removal so I'm not sure if something is not right. I can say all bolts are snug and none are sitting on my workbench. I just need someone that has experience with this or maybe can go tug on your tank a bit up front and let me know if you feel any play. It is subtle but there none the less so it is bugging me...

thanks in advance...

If I recall correctly there are 2 rubber sleeves that go into the sides of the frame where the tank mounts. They can fall out easily during disassembly without you even knowing, this may cause your tank to appear loose even if the bolts are tight.
 
When it was all put back together I noticed if I tug on the front of the tank left to right it will wiggle a bit. The flex is coming from the left and right allen bolts. They thread into what appears to be a tab of some sort.. not a nut or threads into the frame. Is this normal?

I can't say I jiggled the tank before removal so I'm not sure if something is not right. I can say all bolts are snug and none are sitting on my workbench. I just need someone that has experience with this or maybe can go tug on your tank a bit up front and let me know if you feel any play. It is subtle but there none the less so it is bugging me...

thanks in advance...

The bolt that you are talking about goes into a rubber expansion type (friction fit damper) plug in the frame. How cold is it where you are right now? If the temp is fairly low the rubber will have shrunk enough for a little play. As long as the bolt is tight I would not worry about it. There is always a little bit of free play (less when it is warm outside and the engine/bike is hot) As long as the rear bolt (at the hinge) is properly secure it won't move too much anyway.
 
It is very cold in the garage right now ...around 25 degrees. Your post makes sense (oldschool) but so its clear I feel the bolts on the left and right are the cause of the flex. The middle allen bolt (which appears to go into a plug as you describe) is snug. Do you mean the left and right are also fitted into these rubber plugs? They appear to be a tab with a flange that sticks out so it can rotate only so much.

It is probably nothing but since I didn't notice this before I thought to ask.

thanks again...
 
It is very cold in the garage right now ...around 25 degrees. Your post makes sense (oldschool) but so its clear I feel the bolts on the left and right are the cause of the flex. The middle allen bolt (which appears to go into a plug as you describe) is snug. Do you mean the left and right are also fitted into these rubber plugs? They appear to be a tab with a flange that sticks out so it can rotate only so much.

It is probably nothing but since I didn't notice this before I thought to ask.

thanks again...

Yes the 2 side ones also have a rubber sleeve under the metal tab that the allen bolt goes into. Even after you tighten the bolt against the metal plate (wth the 2 tabs/ fingers: 1 faces forward and 1 faces down) you can still move the whole unit in the frame. It is just designed to keep the tank from vibrating and moving too much, not to immobilize it completely. The one at the top center also has a rubber sleeve with a metal center tube that the bolt goes through.

I hope this helps.
 
Thanks ... it does help to know I'm not losing it! It does make sense but glad I asked... funny, I have been wrenching dirt bikes for years but there is much on this FZ1 that is new to me!
 
Yes, thanks for everyone's inputs. I took the time today to tear it apart again.. a little more wiser ;)

This time I used the same insert to block the hose but tossed the nut & bolt blocking the air box inlet and re-attached the hose with the insert added. I liked the idea of re-installing the hose and losing the additional hardware. While in there, I de screened the filter and unplugged the AIS pump wires. Have to say.. that was a bit*ch to get my hands in there but since Hail mentioned it was probably a good idea to not burn out the pump I figured what the hay. After unplugging the wires I used electrical tape to protect the now empty plug. Finally when re-assembling the tank, I did see the side frame bolts screw into rubber frame inserts and they do flex a little, so I am not concerned I missed something putting it all back together.

I can't wait to let her rip in the spring with the new GYTR exhaust, descreened filter and AIS blocked... It feels like its gonna be a looooonnnngggg winter :waiting:
 
Back
Top