Problems with idle - installed ivans kit and ...

yolmen

yolmen

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I got my fz1 01 2 weeks ago. First few days run great. After few days I noticed it was harder to fire up, then to start from light, eventually bike was not drivable. I checked the forum and everything was pointing at pilot jets. I figured I want Ivan's jet anyways so pulled the carbs, sure enough 2 pilot jets were clogged. Cleaned them and the passages. Installed Ivan kit no problems.
Installed the carbs back I had issue with TPS it was moving between 6-9 by it self. Then the battery died (great). Got new battery and was able to set it at 5k. Fired it up and had to hold little throttle just have it running. Idle screw doesn't do anything to the engine.
What's up? I wanted to sync the carbs but it will die in around 1k rpm
At one point with the choke it fired trough the exhaust witch was pretty cool. I also unscrew the mixture screw 4.5 turn out. Any suggestions? I want to ride :(
 
Did you drill the passages in the carbs and cut the springs down? Also, did you make sure of all the float heights? Don't rev the bike with the choke on cause it's not good on the cylinders. Make sure that all the boots are set into the carbs fully and that none are cracked.
 
RE:

Man I just went through the same thing. Here is my post where I ended up alevitating the problem somewhat.
http://www.998cc.org/forum/gen-i-tech/17814-carb-idling-help-needed.html
Since I enlarged the bypass holes it stumbles a bit in first, due to the lack of racing headers, but it pulls way harder across the board. It feels like a rocket once it kicks in and it's scary fast.
My TPS valve just wouldn't stay put. I replaced if with a spare and it helped. Also my EXUP was out of adjustment and it wouldn't rev up right. After I adjusted the TPS, the EXUP and ballanced the carbs everything came together.
No matter what, if you follow the directions exactaly you will still have a minor stumble in 1st.
If you have any questions call Ivan or send me a PM.
 
Yes I did clip the springs, adjust the floats , they are at 14.4mm, drill the 2 holes in the plastic part, I didnt in the metal part (I have only yoshi rs-3 slip on). Boots are nice and tight (I did port them as well).
Also at first the very right carb was making weird noise for first few minutes [ame="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vZT3NZOv-z8"]fz1 01 carb noise - YouTube[/ame] ) I did notice also some noise in the exhaust maybe the valve you talking about.
 
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yolmen said:
Yes I did clip the springs, adjust the floats , they are at 14.4mm, drill the 2 holes in the plastic part, I didnt in the metal part (I have only yoshi rs-3 slip on). Boots are nice and tight (I did port them as well).
Also at first the very right carb was making weird noise for first few minutes fz1 01 carb noise - YouTube ) I did notice also some noise in the exhaust maybe the valve you talking about.
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Well, just to let you know, I was running the same slip-on on my FZ1 and you still needed to drill out the passages. Ivan did it himself on my bike as I watched. I'd call him on Monday to be perfectly sure but I'm almost positive that with his kit when your running the stock airbox with a slip-on, you have to drill them.
 
Hmmm I think I will just do it tomorrow. Shouldn't take to long this time. Do I absolutely have to sync the carbs right away? I found that my carb sync is "out off juice"
 
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yolmen said:
Hmmm I think I will just do it tomorrow. Shouldn't take to long this time. Do I absolutely have to sync the carbs right away? I found that my carb sync is "out off juice"
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While it won't kill you not to do it right now, it would be a good idea to do it once you've finished the carbs. Go on Youtube and watch some vids on making your own. It's easy to do and just as accurate.
 
shortening the springs is not necessary but drilling the carbs is,

I would also take a good look at the exup

p.s. be careful when drilling the carbs, I managed to break the drill in carb4 :)
I can remember the panic when the broken part wouldn't come out
I debured all the openings and air passages in the carbs with good results
 
so I drilled the holes, I also noticed that the idle screw was out I think that's why wouldn't idle.
I tooked few turns untill it fired up. but now idles fairly fine ;) I can't get reset done at 5k it's always going to 10k when screwing the screw, also it's kinda jerky under 3k and then it hits, just like progomatic maybe have get new throttle sensor? It also likes to hang at 2k rpm untill drops to idle.
 
also noticed battery dies, yesturday got brand new one and its dead, would fakty TPS drain the power? also shousnt it be like on card that obce the engine runes I should run fine? the engine died on the parking lot, think I'm giving up
 
I don't see why the TPS wound drain your battery. Keep making micro adjustments and try not to torque the bolts down too tight. A new TPS I believe is almost $180. Trouble shoot till your ready to pull your hair out and then trouble shoot some more. Your on the right track and almost there.
Good job..
 
yolmen said:
also noticed battery dies, yesturday got brand new one and its dead, would fakty TPS drain the power? also shousnt it be like on card that obce the engine runes I should run fine? the engine died on the parking lot, think I'm giving up
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if a new battery died in a few days check the voltage, too much will kill it very fast , when the regulator/rectifier dies can give either too many volts or not enough, so must check this first
 
The brand new battery died overnight, today I jump start it and was hopping for a short ride after drilling the holes in the passages. It died on me on the parking lot because of battery.
I was trying to make very small adjustments to TPS but every time Im almost done screwing it back it just bounces to 10k, it goes to 5K if i bend it a little (maybe will try top put something underneath on one side).

But what worries me now is battery discharge :smokin2:
 
yolmen said:
The brand new battery died overnight, today I jump start it and was hopping for a short ride after drilling the holes in the passages. It died on me on the parking lot because of battery.
I was trying to make very small adjustments to TPS but every time Im almost done screwing it back it just bounces to 10k, it goes to 5K if i bend it a little (maybe will try top put something underneath on one side).

But what worries me now is battery discharge :smokin2:
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Do a simple draw test on the battery. Get any old plain multi-meter and remove the positive cable off. Then set the meter to Amps and put one probe on the battery and the other probe to the positive lead. It should read Zero. If you see a draw on your screen, pull one fuse at a time while the meter is hooked up until it drops to Zero. That will be the circuit thats drawing electricity from the battery.
 
I just did mine not to long back and remember that Ivan DID recommend drilling out the throat of the carbs. I set my mixing screws 2 1/2 turns. The 4 1/2 just seemed silly but what do I know. I haven't sinced the carbs either.
 
M.Martin said:
I just did mine not to long back and remember that Ivan DID recommend drilling out the throat of the carbs. I set my mixing screws 2 1/2 turns. The 4 1/2 just seemed silly but what do I know. I haven't sinced the carbs either.
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didn't think it would even start or hold idle wo choke at 2 1/2, took out a spark plug? how does it look?
 
So today I made another attempt to the bike. I charged the battery put it in and check is something draining it ... it was 0Amp so good.
I plugged in and tried to fire it up. I was spinning and spinning and nothing. Then I'm like let me check on/off switch under tank, sure enough the hoses were not even plugged in : oops: after installing them it wouldn't still fire up for a while, until I put it in gear that's when it fired up.
Anyhow once on battery was showing 13,1V im not sure is that ok in the bike but I guess its giving some charge.

Overall I was able to ride the bike I drove around with hefty dose of sea foam (left over prior to ivans kit). I have some small issues
- it still little weird to run of light it stutters around 2-3k
- once going around 4k rpm if i give full throttle it again stutters a little and then goes, than between 6-7k rpm it kinda slows down (I had that before ivans kit) and than it just kicks in and hits 11krpm pretty quick
- also when getting to lights it likes to hang at around 2-3rpm, i have to move the idle screw down to get it down. but once on idle shes nice

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=mZ8bCh1P52E

So I haven't yet set TPS at 5k and didn't sync the carbs. Do you guys think this would cause these issues at lower rpm?
 
RE

It sounds like your on the right track. Do the TPS when the bike is warm and sync the carbs.
This week I was still getting a little throttle rush and minor backfiring. It just didn't feel 100%
I readjusted the air screws with the carbs on and the bike at idle.
Even after drilling and starting at 4.5 turns like the kit says, adjustment may still be necessary for your carbs.
I ended up hitting about 3 and a quarter turns out before the idle stabilised and it sounded good. I then re synced the carbs for safe measure.
I just got back from a test drive and the small surge and popping is gone.
Im happy, I finally think its as good as its going to get
So if you still have the issues try that.
 
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