Powder coated Parts

[kenten]

After riding through a couple of winters some parts had corroded. I thought i would try having them powder coated by a local firm to see how they turned out. so far i am very pleased with the results.

I also put in a number of parts for coating that had no corrosion just because i fancied to have something a little different.

I quite like the mix of black and silver, when i first bought the bike i was not that keen but now its grown on me.

 

[mosheu]

nice job

nice job done there looks well. got power coat done myself before its great but there a lot of people out there that makes a right cock of it if prep-work is not done right.:doh2:

 

[NJFZ1]

Looking good. I always felt that most of the silver parts on the bike should have come in black from the factory.

 

[FZ1inTX]

I like it! Well done! Got me thinking now......

 

[Damn Yankee]

I like it! Well done! Got me thinking now......

ya know?.....what did they charge you,...if i may ask?

 

[kenten]

ya know?.....what did they charge you,...if i may ask?

A very reasonable £130.00. They were recommended to me as they powdercoat for a local bike restoration workshop.

 

[NJFZ1]

That is a very reasonable price indeed and it look like they did a great job.

 

[loosenut]

Out here in Norcal, you pretty much pay a lot fee of 150. I found a guy that provided me with some quality work. He will be getting my business for my long term cafe project.

 

[FZ1inTX]

ya know?.....what did they charge you,...if i may ask?

I checked with a local shop to me... any black finish was $10 - $20 per part depending on size. I listed the rearsets, pegs, pillion brackets, upper triple, risers, caps and bars... was told $120 if I had them stripped and all's they had to do was wash 'em. Not bad! Maybe this winter!!

 

[kenten]

I checked with a local shop to me... any black finish was $10 - $20 per part depending on size. I listed the rearsets, pegs, pillion brackets, upper triple, risers, caps and bars... was told $120 if I had them stripped and all's they had to do was wash 'em. Not bad! Maybe this winter!!

Sounds very reasonable. Although i wanted too, i did not have the top triple clamp done as the rubber mounts for the bar risers have to be removed and they are difficult to impossible to do, unless you are better equipped than i am in the workshop department.
Same with the rear sets, the four rubber mounts need to come out but i used a similar sized socket to tap them out and they came out easy. The rubber breaks away from the outer metal sleeve but they will go back in just fine. As you may know any rubber or grease will melt with the heat and spoil the finish.
You will also need to grind the head of the foot peg pins or axle to remove them. I replaced them with High tensile s/s bolts with locking nuts and i'm happy with the results.

Good idea for a winter project though, good luck with it.

 

[tshrey]

I'm doing this myself right now with my Eastwood powder coating kit. Anyone know how to remove the shift lever linkage? It feels like a ball joint, but before I go yanking on it to pop it off I thought I would ask.

 

[NJFZ1]

I'm doing this myself right now with my Eastwood powder coating kit. Anyone know how to remove the shift lever linkage? It feels like a ball joint, but before I go yanking on it to pop it off I thought I would ask.

I wouldn't try to remove it. The ball joint is riveted on so you can't easily remove it and reattach it. If I were you I would just leave the the shift lever in chrome.

 

[loosenut]

I wouldn't try to remove it. The ball joint is riveted on so you can't easily remove it and reattach it. If I were you I would just leave the the shift lever in chrome.

I'm doing this myself right now with my Eastwood powder coating kit. Anyone know how to remove the shift lever linkage? It feels like a ball joint, but before I go yanking on it to pop it off I thought I would ask.

Clean it with well with degreaser and just make sure you have them mask it off. The heat shouldn't be a problem. Or you can go to McMaster.com and get a replacement. Just search "ball joint".

 

[tshrey]

Really? I figured 400 degrees would just destroy the rubber. Maybe I'll knock it back to 350 and go with a little longer cure time.

 

[kenten]

Really? I figured 400 degrees would just destroy the rubber. Maybe I'll knock it back to 350 and go with a little longer cure time.

Although i took mine off to be coated the powder coating guy said the rubber boot would melt and the leaking grease would spoil the paint. I did look into purchasing a new knuckle/joint with the intention of replacing it but in the end i could not be bothered, less tinkering-more riding.

 

[tshrey]

Finally finished this stuff, masked the boot and cut the temp back to 350 with a longer cure. Rubber is just as pliant is before it went in.

 

[NJFZ1]

Finally finished this stuff, masked the boot and cut the temp back to 350 with a longer cure. Rubber is just as pliant is before it went in.

Glad to hear it worked out ok for you. I powder coated the pegs with the rubber bushings in them and they turned out ok as well.