PC3 a must with theses mods...Yay or Nay?

BD'SFZ

BD'SFZ

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I have an 08 FZ1 with the only mod installed at this time is a Two Brothers Black Series carbon fiber slip on. I was planning on performing the air box mod and installing a BMC filter with a friend the same time he is doing this on his FZ8. If I end up putting the filter in and doing the air box mod is a PC3 a must or will it be ok to run without it for a while until I can afford at PC3? I do understand it would be optimal to do it all at the same time and have it professionally dyno tuned but like most I'm on a budget and can only do a little at a time. Any help or tips would be greatful. Thanks!
 
I think you'll need a tuner with both the slip on and airbox mod. Get the V instead of the III. $270 shipped from MotoMummy. Order the one for a 2009.
 
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You need the PC3 or PCV. You can do exhaust or intake but not both or she will be running lean. You do not NEED to get it dyno tuned, you could just run a map from the map pack Dunken provides.
 
I don't agree. I have a 2007 that has the two brothers slip on, K&N filter, airbox and fly mod, and velocity stacks, and it DOES NOT RUN LEAN. It's been this way for three years. Now, could it perform better with a PC, yes probably. But it performs great now. I'm not the only one either, there's a couple of us that have, or are running this way. Just my little old .02 cents. :)


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Have you ever had the AFR tested?

Not trying to be a dick, just asking for some real data vs just saying it will not run lean. I am personally curious.
 
PapaGeno21 said:
Have you ever had the AFR tested?

Not trying to be a dick, just asking for some real data vs just saying it will not run lean. I am personally curious.
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actually on my bike with a MIVV so,catgut,AB mod,BMC filter I was on the dyno and my fueling was almost perfect I ran the bike like that for over a year and never had a problem.so the data from my dyno run says yes he is safe with those mods as well as many other people who have the same mods with no PC3 or 5.NOT NEEDED PERIOD
 
Well then that is a good thing.

Personally, I won't do it. But that is me. If you are doing all those mods, what is the point if you don't adjust the fuel accordingly to get the most out of what you did? That's like ordering a fillet minion steak and only eating half of it.
 
amevl said:
actually on my bike with a MIVV so,catgut,AB mod,BMC filter I was on the dyno and my fueling was almost perfect I ran the bike like that for over a year and never had a problem.so the data from my dyno run says yes he is safe with those mods as well as many other people who have the same mods with no PC3 or 5.NOT NEEDED PERIOD
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I don't know. You're in essence saying your mods did nothing. My bike ran like crap after doing my mods until I updated my map. I think thats a good thing because at least I know my mods did something-good or bad.
 
well I guess the dyno lied at 140hp with just those mods.The point is depending on factors like altitude,tune condition of bike and the fact that no bike is exactly like the next that my AFR's on my bike were almost dead on and I didnt have disposable income to spend on a PC3 or 5 at that time.It was good to know that iwas not running lean condition that would damage the bike.So to the OP install your mods and go ride that badboy when U have the money add that PC3
 
Forgive my ignorance, but shouldn't the sensors in the intake and exhaust tracts help the bike adjust fuelling to a point? I mean, is that not how EFI works? I understand how a bike would need to be remapped after extensive mods, but I just figured that is for a) when you mod the bike so heavily that the OE computer can't understand what's going on, or b) you want to modify how the bike is fuelled to begin with, regardless of mods, in cases of wanting to sacrifice economy and ridability for all-out performance. This is more or less speculation on my part. I don't know that much about it.
 
jacobdahl said:
Forgive my ignorance, but shouldn't the sensors in the intake and exhaust tracts help the bike adjust fuelling to a point? I mean, is that not how EFI works? I understand how a bike would need to be remapped after extensive mods, but I just figured that is for a) when you mod the bike so heavily that the OE computer can't understand what's going on, or b) you want to modify how the bike is fuelled to begin with, regardless of mods, in cases of wanting to sacrifice economy and ridability for all-out performance. This is more or less speculation on my part. I don't know that much about it.
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Very good point, however opening up both the intake and exhaust is pretty significant. That, though, could be the case with amevl.
 
I also forgot to mention I did gut my cat as well. I understand that with a PC3 or PC5 the bike will run at its best with the mods performed, however since replacing the filter and doing the air box mod will only cost me $70 and a little time versus almost $300 for a PC3 or 5 I just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to harm the bike is really all I wanted to know. I'm going to get one eventually it's just easier to come up with and extra $70 that $300 right now.
 
PapaGeno21 said:
That's like ordering a fillet minion steak and only eating half of it.
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A better analogy might be ordering fillet then covering it with ketchup :D
Just kidding of course. I ran my bike that way for a few months, it ran fine but I never had it dyno'ed to check A/F. It ran much stronger and smoother though, after I added the PCIII and a good map.

jacobdahl said:
Forgive my ignorance, but shouldn't the sensors in the intake and exhaust tracts help the bike adjust fuelling to a point? I mean, is that not how EFI works? I understand how a bike would need to be remapped after extensive mods, but I just figured that is for a) when you mod the bike so heavily that the OE computer can't understand what's going on, or b) you want to modify how the bike is fuelled to begin with, regardless of mods, in cases of wanting to sacrifice economy and ridability for all-out performance. This is more or less speculation on my part. I don't know that much about it.
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Our EFI is only part-time closed loop (Common for bikes and some Autos). Closed loop is when the ECU is utilizing the sensors to analyze the intake and exhaust, then makes appropriate adjustments to the A/F. I forget the exact numbers, but it is something like 40% throttle and less and 4000 RPM and less, is the region that it uses closed loop mode. Anything above 4000RPM and 40% throttle is open loop mode, it relies soley on the base map programmed into the ECU, and does not use any sensor input nor does it alter the A/F in any way in open loop.

Hope this helps some. If you're really curious and need more info, a google search should get you more info then anyone really needs to know about our EFI system :D
 
Interesting to see all the people claiming that there AFR is perfect and at best, only a few people show evidence. When they do show evidence, it is only for a very small percentage of the useable power band, WOT. You guys would be amazed at what these bikes feel like when the entire fuel map is dialed in. You would also be shocked at just how inconsistent the AFR is on most maps I see.

I would never even consider one of these bikes open loop, given what I seen on several of these bikes.

Beast
 
I agree ^^^ i did a bunch of mods to mine and although it ran great it wasnt as stron as i would have liked. Yes my A/F ratio wasnt out that much above 4000rpm but it was out, and it was terribble below that. so i had a custom map and i do know have a near perfect A/F ratio from tickover to redline and the diffrence is huge!!! Instant power instead of the bogging when giving it full throttle plus the extra tourqe lower down in the RPM range. Much better to ride now. This is just my experiance
 
FZ1 Game On said:
I agree ^^^ i did a bunch of mods to mine and although it ran great it wasnt as stron as i would have liked. Yes my A/F ratio wasnt out that much above 4000rpm but it was out, and it was terribble below that. so i had a custom map and i do know have a near perfect A/F ratio from tickover to redline and the diffrence is huge!!! Instant power instead of the bogging when giving it full throttle plus the extra tourqe lower down in the RPM range. Much better to ride now. This is just my experiance
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Stirring the pot a bit here . . .Actually Beast is saying that he doesn't recommend Open Loop running at all. Your custom map is by definition Open loop using preset (determined by your custom tuner) adjustments to the fuel curve. He is suggesting that you need a system that is constantly adjusting based on feedback from a wideband sensor.
How well does your bike run with its custom map in its open loop mode?
 
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