ohio mile

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So i just got back from a 9,281 mile trip on my fz. Im pulling all the touring shit off and getting it ready to race the mile in the end of april. I've registered, got the conformation e-mail etc. I bought a kit off ivan last year that included all the normal bolt on stuff. Supposed to be just over 150hp to tire. It runs wayy better than stock. Im ordering a copper dawg speed screen and cowl this week. Im going to lower it, remove mirrors, side stand, center stand, pass foot pegs (all per rules), safety wire it up, kill switch from mps. Im not sure what i should do with the gearing? Im wondering if there's any advantage of using race gas, or oxygenated race gas? I have a PC V with ivans map for my header/mods etc. What do you guys think? BTW I'm 6'2 220 suited up. Seriously considered buying a set a marcaseni wheels too. I know its no 200 mph busa but something i want to take off the bucket list. Thanks Brian.
 
Very cool. I dont think it will hit the rev limiter in 6th gear. so it may be better to go up a tooth on the rear.
whats the date you will be running? I may come and watch.
 
Its the last weekend in april. I took like 700 pictures with my phone and will post some about trip soon. Need to get put on my computer and find time to write about it.
 
Don't know what you mean by "race gas". Do you mean higher octane gas?
Higher octane gas is only needed (or useful) for those engine designed (or modified) for it.

Higher octane gas burns more slowly than lower octane gas. That is what the octane does - it slows down the rate of combustion. This is necessary if the compression ratio is very high and the combustion chamber is designed in "certain" ways.

For a machine designed for lower octane - you will actually see a small performance drop using higher than needed octane gas. You might also experience a little balkyness or some minor hesitation.
Low octane designed machines run better - get better mileage, etc with lower octane gas - and conversely - poorer using higher octane.

Check what your engine mods were. Did anyone change the compression ratio -(take the cylinder head off and modify it)? With your Ivan mods - was your ignition timing changed? Advancing the timing can cause pre-ignition (knocking) - which is exactly what the higher octane was designed to help reduce - with slower burning gas. So... if ignition timing change - maybe need higher octane.
Don't use it if your machine doesn't require it. It will reduce your performance.

For cars and such - that don't require it - by the manufacture's instructions - using higher octane will reduce performance - and cost a bunch more money in the process. The gas companies love to sell it as "better gas" to unsuspecting customers though. It is not better in any way - it is not cleaner - it is not more powerful - it, in fact, is slightly less powerful because of the octane additives.

Unless - by "race gas" you mean some super duper magical stuff. But even aviation gas is just higher octane gas - towards 110 octane rating. It's not super duper - it just burns more slowly and evenly. Light aircraft engines are designed very very conservatively - so as to be as safe and long lived as possible. And they are relatively low powered - most people are not aware.
The Piper Cherokees I used to fly were rated at 160 and 180 HP. The FAA has a special high performance rating - and you must get more training and your license modified to fly those planes --- and that is anything 200 HP or above.
I know, I know - that doesn't seem high performance - but in aviation - that's the rule - and it is.
 
lindy said:
Don't know what you mean by "race gas". Do you mean higher octane gas?
Higher octane gas is only needed (or useful) for those engine designed (or modified) for it.

Higher octane gas burns more slowly than lower octane gas. That is what the octane does - it slows down the rate of combustion. This is necessary if the compression ratio is very high and the combustion chamber is designed in "certain" ways.

For a machine designed for lower octane - you will actually see a small performance drop using higher than needed octane gas. You might also experience a little balkyness or some minor hesitation.
Low octane designed machines run better - get better mileage, etc with lower octane gas - and conversely - poorer using higher octane.

Check what your engine mods were. Did anyone change the compression ratio -(take the cylinder head off and modify it)? With your Ivan mods - was your ignition timing changed? Advancing the timing can cause pre-ignition (knocking) - which is exactly what the higher octane was designed to help reduce - with slower burning gas. So... if ignition timing change - maybe need higher octane.
Don't use it if your machine doesn't require it. It will reduce your performance.

For cars and such - that don't require it - by the manufacture's instructions - using higher octane will reduce performance - and cost a bunch more money in the process. The gas companies love to sell it as "better gas" to unsuspecting customers though. It is not better in any way - it is not cleaner - it is not more powerful - it, in fact, is slightly less powerful because of the octane additives.

Unless - by "race gas" you mean some super duper magical stuff. But even aviation gas is just higher octane gas - towards 110 octane rating. It's not super duper - it just burns more slowly and evenly. Light aircraft engines are designed very very conservatively - so as to be as safe and long lived as possible. And they are relatively low powered - most people are not aware.
The Piper Cherokees I used to fly were rated at 160 and 180 HP. The FAA has a special high performance rating - and you must get more training and your license modified to fly those planes --- and that is anything 200 HP or above.
I know, I know - that doesn't seem high performance - but in aviation - that's the rule - and it is.
Click to expand...

I think he means something like this when saying "race gas". You aren't going to get anything out of it unless you are running higher compressions. Your engine is designed to run on pump gas....unless you've "gone inside".

This is what the AMA guys run:
http://www.racegas.com/fuel/8
 
lindy said:
Don't know what you mean by "race gas". Do you mean higher octane gas?
Higher octane gas is only needed (or useful) for those engine designed (or modified) for it.

Higher octane gas burns more slowly than lower octane gas. That is what the octane does - it slows down the rate of combustion. This is necessary if the compression ratio is very high and the combustion chamber is designed in "certain" ways.

For a machine designed for lower octane - you will actually see a small performance drop using higher than needed octane gas. You might also experience a little balkyness or some minor hesitation.
Low octane designed machines run better - get better mileage, etc with lower octane gas - and conversely - poorer using higher octane.

Check what your engine mods were. Did anyone change the compression ratio -(take the cylinder head off and modify it)? With your Ivan mods - was your ignition timing changed? Advancing the timing can cause pre-ignition (knocking) - which is exactly what the higher octane was designed to help reduce - with slower burning gas. So... if ignition timing change - maybe need higher octane.
Don't use it if your machine doesn't require it. It will reduce your performance.

For cars and such - that don't require it - by the manufacture's instructions - using higher octane will reduce performance - and cost a bunch more money in the process. The gas companies love to sell it as "better gas" to unsuspecting customers though. It is not better in any way - it is not cleaner - it is not more powerful - it, in fact, is slightly less powerful because of the octane additives.

Unless - by "race gas" you mean some super duper magical stuff. But even aviation gas is just higher octane gas - towards 110 octane rating. It's not super duper - it just burns more slowly and evenly. Light aircraft engines are designed very very conservatively - so as to be as safe and long lived as possible. And they are relatively low powered - most people are not aware.
The Piper Cherokees I used to fly were rated at 160 and 180 HP. The FAA has a special high performance rating - and you must get more training and your license modified to fly those planes --- and that is anything 200 HP or above.
I know, I know - that doesn't seem high performance - but in aviation - that's the rule - and it is.
Click to expand...

Exactly right, mostly. The 100 low lead (106-108ish octane) avgas here contains no ethanol, I use it in everything i'm am storing for a length of time. Really the only benefit (other than it smells good). :) That ethanol turns into bacteria quick and is horrible for engine's, carbs, injectors, etc.
 
I talked to ivan today, race gas is a no. But he says with all my mods have dynojet raise my rev limit to 12,250. He says theres useable power up there and it wont blow my junk up. His personal bike has it with a ton of dyno runs and no issues at all. I ordered screen and rear seat cowl from copperdawg today. Probably going to order the wheels this week. Bonneville kinda fucked my wheels/rotors up. So i have a couple excuses to buy new.

I haven't done a search but what steering dampner should i buy?
 
520 chain?

What do you guys think about putting a 520 on? Maybe even if its just for the mile. I can put my other back on after. Sounds like i might have to regear anyway. I should have rev limit raised tomorrow. Maybe go see what it'll do with gearing now and no side bags or trunk. Ive never run it without all the old man touring shit.
 
Yes i bought the new one. Patrick said it takes 3 weeks. I ordered the wheels today. Holy fuck those are expensive! I'll have them next week. Going to have 2 complete sets. That way when i go ride far put my stock junk with rusty rotors back on tires and all.
 
Find you some VP Racing fuel called MR12 and get your bike tuned for it you will see 155+ with it on the dyno.
Put the stock gearing on the bike it's good for 176ish without good fuel or nitrous the bike will never see that speed my 06 ran 178mph with stock gearing and a 50hp shot of nitrous.
The elevation at the site will play a role in the power of the bike.
When I went to Texas with my zx14 the afr was off from what it was where I live we had to retune it at the site.
Put your toes on the pegs and as close to the bike as possible.
Get you butt back and your chin on the tank and you should do well.
 
Thanks for the info. Im going to order chain and gears next week. I decided after talking with a few people to get the 520. Im going to get a few sprockets so I'll be able to dial it in. Saturday i have to go 4 passes at 100, 125, 150, 175 to get license. Then im good to go.

I went faster than that on my bone stock busa (not in the mile competition) years ago. I can see me having another but with boost if i really like this shit. Bill warner went 311 last year. Still sitting on bike. Then crashed trying to back it up. Now thats flying!
 
I ordered the magnesium marchensini wheels. They left California today. I cant do a search on my phone, will stock rotors bolt up? I have the correct sprockets coming for those wheels but want to order rotors tomorrow. Thanks
 
weight difference for those that give a shit

Mag wheel, pilot power 3, alum rotor adapter's, steel bolts, alum spacers. 16.85
Stock wheel, dunlop sportmax road smart 2, there is no adapter, steel spacers 19.69
Rear mag, pilot power 3, alum cush drive, alum 520 sprocket, steel nuts, alum spacers26.7
Stock rear, dunloproadsmart 2, stock cush drive, steel sprocket, steel nutsandspacers33.0
Frt rotors stock 7.23
Brembo groove 6.62
Rear stock 2.42
Rear Titanium 1.04
 
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