not the same oil quesiton

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strester

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I picked up some royal purple 15/40 at autozone on sale for $20. I have been using rotella 5w40. My bike seems to be running hotter that usual with the royal purple.

Rotella 160/200
RP 180/219

any ideas on why?
 
Search for "oil" and you'll find all the info you wanted to know, and if you google "best motorcycle oil"? forget about it...people have done their thesis on it it appears. Personally I found a place locally that sells yamalube for the same price as one can purchase auto oil n Walmart. Last oil change though I was fresh out and just used Mobil oil from Walmart and everything seems just fine, no clutch slipping etc. I think if you keep up with your oil changes and use synthetic you're ok it appears.
 
FZ1inNH said:
Wouldn't a thicker viscosity oil cause the engine to work harder thus drive the temperature up? If I am wrong, please explain. :D
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5w40 and 15w40 are the same viscosity at operating temps. The lower number is when it's cold. That's why it's called multiviscosity oil.:D
 
strester said:
I picked up some royal purple 15/40 at autozone on sale for $20. I have been using rotella 5w40. My bike seems to be running hotter that usual with the royal purple.

Rotella 160/200
RP 180/219

any ideas on why?
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I can't imagine why you would run a 5w40 oil in Texas. Throw that crap away and get some RotellaT 15w40. :) Or run what I run Castrol 20w50.
:)
 
Crazyjoe said:
I can't imagine why you would run a 5w40 oil in Texas. Throw that crap away and get some RotellaT 15w40. :) Or run what I run Castrol 20w50.
:)
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Why is a problem to have a thinner oil at start-up when the engine is cold and struggling for lubrication?
Isn't this when it would be more beneficial to be thinner?

At operating temperature a 5W40 or a 15W40 are the same viscocity.
 
Use what the manufacture suggests. The oil they have chosen is based on engine part tolerance when they are cold and again when they are at operating temps.


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ballmead said:
Why is a problem to have a thinner oil at start-up when the engine is cold and struggling for lubrication?
Isn't this when it would be more beneficial to be thinner?

At operating temperature a 5W40 or a 15W40 are the same viscocity.
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The problem with multi-weight oils is the oil has the lubricity of the base oil. It may have the same viscosity at operating temperatures but the viscosity is developed by long chain polymers that are not lubricants, they just make the oil more resistant to flow. Besides, what is the temp in Texas right now -- about 70 in the morning?
 
johnnyontherocks said:
Use what the manufacture suggests. The oil they have chosen is based on engine part tolerance when they are cold and again when they are at operating temps.


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The absolute last thing I would do is follow the manufacturers instructions. They have zero reason to help you make your engine last longer.
 
Crazyjoe said:
The absolute last thing I would do is follow the manufacturers instructions. They have zero reason to help you make your engine last longer.
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Whaa?? If I were said customer who's motor siezed up due to the manufacturers recommended oil weight (which is extremely unlikely, but bare with me), I would never go back to that manufacturer. I would think most companies want repeat/recommended customers?

To the OP, don't sweat it dude.. you're running good oil. Change it at proper intervals, and you won't have a problem. Don't think about it too much, just ride.
 
slyter485 said:
Whaa?? If I were said customer who's motor siezed up due to the manufacturers recommended oil weight (which is extremely unlikely, but bare with me), I would never go back to that manufacturer. I would think most companies want repeat/recommended customers?

To the OP, don't sweat it dude.. you're running good oil. Change it at proper intervals, and you won't have a problem. Don't think about it too much, just ride.
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Lubrication, specifically, has not and has never been about keeping an engine from seizing except when products like Slick 50 came out and actually caused engines to seize. Lubrication is about engine life and we have accepted the lifetime we get now using normal crap oil as normal. Therefore the manufacturer has nothing to worry about.

So, if you do what a manufacturer says -- you will get normal engine life.

I buy my wife a new car every 2 years. I let Honda do the oil changes when the stupid oil life light tells me to change. My engine is receiving excessive wear. I don't care. Honda tells the next buyer that I was an exceptional owner and took awesome care of the vehicle. Therefore, I get the maximum amount of money for my car at trade in. This is the way the world goes around. I would not allow my daughter to buy this car.

All major brand napthenic oil comes from the roughest and cheapest crude stock that money can buy. It will make your engine last an acceptable normal time. The additional cost to use a lubricant that will make it last 2 to 3 times longer than normal doesn't make sense for a motorcycle, where you can buy a perfect used engine for less than $500.

The bottom line is simple: Change your oil and filter @ 3000 miles. If you are in an ambient area of above freezing run a 20w50. If you are in a colder area -- store your bike and drive. :) If you are spending more than the cost of a Walmart oil --- you are wasting money. Period.
 
johnnyontherocks said:
Brand reputation, warranties, and such


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Come on Johnie, Brand reputation? Most manufacturers - even Honda -- come out with a bike that has problems the first coupla years. Do we dump them? Hell no. Instead, we are proud when they correct the problem the next year. Of course, this doesn't help the suckers that bought the bad product. The Honda 1000RR blew oil when it came out in 08, they solved that problem for 09. Then in 10 they told us how they realized the crank needed more weight and added that for better grunt. Now ---the bike is awesome. What about their reputation?
 
Lot's of crazy talk here. I've been riding/driving since 1966 having all kinds of cars and bikes, lived in hot and cold areas, lived in many different countries including some crappy third world ones, and have had ZERO issues with any engine as far as lubrication was concerned. I never had to open an engine up for any sort of repairs, all I ever did was change oil and filter on manufacturers recommendations. Everybody can do what they want but if you follow the manufacturers recommendations as far as changes and oil level are concerned you won't have any problems.
 
Evitzee said:
Lot's of crazy talk here. I've been riding/driving since 1966 having all kinds of cars and bikes, lived in hot and cold areas, lived in many different countries including some crappy third world ones, and have had ZERO issues with any engine as far as lubrication was concerned. I never had to open an engine up for any sort of repairs, all I ever did was change oil and filter on manufacturers recommendations. Everybody can do what they want but if you follow the manufacturers recommendations as far as changes and oil level are concerned you won't have any problems.
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Yeah, I think Honda recommends 8000 miles changes. That'll work. You are just proving my main point which is: most people don't keep a bike long enough to find out if it will last.
 
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