No more expensive tire changes for NJ people!

the exact same setup I have got it 2 years ago be careful the top of the changer where the blocks drop in will bend then the blocks wont lock in and no-mar will argue about replacing it .It has been handy having a changer but in retrospect I would have not bought this brand also make sure you drive the bar with your hip.
 
First tire set changed.

- I did not have any issues with plywood spinning, since I had both feet on while removing/installing tires.
- Wearing regular sneakers was enough to give me traction.. no slippage.
- Removal of both tires was easy. (following video instructions)
- Breaking the bead was effortless on both front and rear.
- Installation was not all that easy. It takes significant effort to walk the bar around the tire (pushing with hip, and pulling with hand). I found that placing one hand on top of changer arm really helped. The yellow arm thingie cannot be used on front wheel with large rotors, but I found I didn't really need it for the front. I did use it on the rear.. not sure how much it helped and if it was necessary.

I imagine it would all get easier if I did it several times and often enough. If performance of this thing doesn't degrade, I'll be pretty happy with my investment.

The balancer.. it works fine, but what a PITA, if you're OCD like me. Each wheel took 15-20 minutes, and I still don't think it's perfect, but really need to ride the bike to see if it's noticeably out of balance.

Also replaced valves with 90 degree aluminum pieces. Hopefully they'll hold air OK.. (would have appreciated a recommended torque value for those).
 
Hi Eric,

I use the same changer for my tire changes. The yellow thing is actually very handy there are some You Tube videos which show you how to use it best, the original No Mar one I found less good wrt yellow thing.

The ease of changing tires depends a lot on the brand of the tire for example Bridgestone are very tough, while Michelin and Pirelli Angel GT are very easy. In general all tires with stiff carcasse are difficult.

Use lots of tire lube and it will go easier, and of course practice helps ;). Have fun changing your tires, a very good investment.
 
while you are driving the bar with your hip and holding with your hand you need to use other to push the bead down or I sometimes use the handle off my huge floorjack and the extra leverage makes all the difference.Also try getting the tires nice and warm either by setting them in the sun or by a heat source.Do some nice stiff sidewall bias cruiser tires and you'll see what fun is.I was able to use the yellow thing on my front FZ rim but the front tires are always easy anyhow
 
Dreamdemon said:
Hi Eric,

I use the same changer for my tire changes. The yellow thing is actually very handy there are some You Tube videos which show you how to use it best, the original No Mar one I found less good wrt yellow thing.

The ease of changing tires depends a lot on the brand of the tire for example Bridgestone are very tough, while Michelin and Pirelli Angel GT are very easy. In general all tires with stiff carcasse are difficult.

Use lots of tire lube and it will go easier, and of course practice helps ;). Have fun changing your tires, a very good investment.
Click to expand...
My Stone S20's are very tough just the rear tire actually
 
What do you all think of static balancing? (not just no-mar.. any static balancer). Do you try to get it to be perfect? Zero movement in any position?
 
I've done it a couple of times and worked really hard to get zero movement. Last time I had tires swapped, I went with Dynabeads and have been very happy with them. I'll probably stick with them for balancing from now on.

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 4
 
Just commuted to the office on new tires. Sure enough the front is slightly out of balance. I am guessing by 1/8 - 1/4 oz. It would probably be acceptable for most and could be mistaken for normal handlebar vibration at 5k rpm, but I know it can be smoother, so I'll be re-balancing the front wheel tonight.
Oh well.. best way to get better at these things is to practice! :tup:
 
Clyde said:
I've done it a couple of times and worked really hard to get zero movement. Last time I had tires swapped, I went with Dynabeads and have been very happy with them. I'll probably stick with them for balancing from now on.

Sent from my Galaxy S3 using Tapatalk 4
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Dynabeads do no help balancing. They will be just radially distributed when the wheel spins and not compensate in any way the asymmetric weight distribution of a tire. It's just physics so marketing wants to make people believe they would be a convenient way not to balance the tire. The reason that they seem to work sometimes is that not every tire needs lots of weight and a slight weight asymmetry is usually not noticeable especially on the rear wheel.

I usually go with a static balancer and be careful that the cones sit on the wheel bearings, all spacer removed and the cones are tight against the bearings without any play.
 
Dreamdemon said:
Dynabeads do no help balancing. They will be just radially distributed when the wheel spins and not compensate in any way the asymmetric weight distribution of a tire. It's just physics so marketing wants to make people believe they would be a convenient way not to balance the tire. The reason that they seem to work sometimes is that not every tire needs lots of weight and a slight weight asymmetry is usually not noticeable especially on the rear wheel.

I usually go with a static balancer and be careful that the cones sit on the wheel bearings, all spacer removed and the cones are tight against the bearings without any play.
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Interesting about spacers. Most how-to videos do show that spacers are used. My cones actually wouldn't be large enough, without spacers.

I did put the wheels on balancer without tires to see if heavy spot was at the valve. On both front and rear, it wasn't exactly at the valve. So I aligned tire dots with heaviest spots on wheel. Both front and rear took 3/4oz to balance.. not too bad (though front may need slightly more.. I'll find out tonight).
 
Erci said:
Interesting about spacers. Most how-to videos do show that spacers are used. My cones actually wouldn't be large enough, without spacers.
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I would second his recommendation to remove the spacers. If your cone fits the inside diameter of the spacer it should fit the bearing (they are they same size).

The spacers are only held in position by the end seal which can flex an compress causing an "out of balance" situation. I chased my tail with this one for a while until i realized that the spacer was moving.
 
skooter65 said:
I would second his recommendation to remove the spacers. If your cone fits the inside diameter of the spacer it should fit the bearing (they are they same size).

The spacers are only held in position by the end seal which can flex an compress causing an "out of balance" situation. I chased my tail with this one for a while until i realized that the spacer was moving.
Click to expand...

It will work on the front wheel (cones without spacers). I'll try it tonight.

Still think cones will go right through the rear.. very large internal diameter bearings on that one.
 
Figured it out. It is critical to find the exact heaviest spot before adding weights. This time I let the wheel settle on its own 3-4 times to make sure I find the exact heavy point. Sure enough the front needed another 1/4oz, but I had to move all the weights, because they weren't exactly opposite of the heavy spot. I did remove the spacers to do this.

Re-did the rear as well. Could not do rear without spacers. I removed the spacer on one side, but on the other, the bearing has a much greater ID. Had to shift the weights on the rear one too and got it very close to perfect (the wheel only moves maybe 1/2" in 3 o'clock and no movement at all at 6, 9 and 12.

Of course I won't know for sure if it's "perfect" till I ride it.
 
magpiemale said:
Expensive tyre changes ?? How much is it in nj
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The cheapest place I know is $30 per wheel (provided you remove the wheels yourself). It's an hour from me and there is no way to get to it without traffic (do-able, but pain).

All other places I know charge $50 per wheel.
 
Erci said:
The cheapest place I know is $30 per wheel (provided you remove the wheels yourself). It's an hour from me and there is no way to get to it without traffic (do-able, but pain).

All other places I know charge $50 per wheel.
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Up here they want $40 bucks if it (the wheel is off) or $65 per wheel if they have to take the wheel off the bike. Pirates! That's why I do my own tires now by hand. I wish I had a machine, but for me being good at hand tire changes is good for the trail.



 
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Flipping rip off.300 million in America and no fight for lower gas ,electric, tyre changes I have a mobile tyre fitter he charges me £300-290 .Price of call out £30 tyres around £240 £250 the rest is VAT and tyre disposal fitting is included in the overall price. .
 
I'm very lucky to have a great, trustworthy mechanic just a couple blocks away. He runs a business out of his home and charges me $25-$30 per wheel if I just drop the bike off. The VFR has ten second rear wheel removal so I may just bring a loose wheel to him next and save a few bucks
 
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