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MIVV GP install

Oldschool

Oldschool

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Had decent weather this Saturday, (warm enough to work in the garage) so I installed the MIVV. Had to remove the stock cannon first. Just a note regarding Copperdog's video; you don't have to cut the zip tie holding the servo lines. it is a reuseable type and came off easily without cutting. Otherwise his video instruction is right on the mark and made the job much easier.
IMG_0046.jpg

removed the bottom servo cables.
IMG_0049.jpg

Then the upper servo cables, and re-installed the motor unit.
IMG_0034.jpg

Installed the mid pipe after polishing it.
IMG_0056.jpg

Installed the can.
IMG_0057.jpg

I did not yet start the bike. I showed uncharacteristic restraint in not starting it but I will film some video when I do. Here is a shot of the stock can off the bike with the db killer from the MIVV that I removed by drilling out the single stainless rivet.
IMG_0058.jpg


I suggest to anyone removing the servo cables to make note of which one is top and bottom. The top cable at the servo unit is the bottom one at the pipe. You can see in the picture the cable adjuster on the bottom one is painted black, the other is plain stainless. I attached a peice of duct tape to the top cable at the servo and marked it for future reference.

For reference as well: (from Rusty's post) "I've just finished fitting the pipe and managed to put it on the scales....... Standard pipe was 7.2kg, Mivv weighed in at 3.3kg including the link pipe" This is a weight savings of 3.9 kg!
 
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CrazyBiker said:
Mark the duct tape as top bottom. Since if you look it 1-2 years down the line you will forget which end the tape was put on. I have had experiences with such things a lot :D
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That is exactly what I did. I added a piece of silver duct tape to the bottom end of the cable and wrote Bottom cable at pipe. Having the picture for reference should help as well. I can't imagine going back to the stock set up now, but maybe if I keep this one as long as my other museum piece I might want to (then) restore it for a show piece.
 
Nice exhaust I have the same but Titanium, I love the sound with the baffle out, notice how heavy the stock exhaust is?. Good choice mate looks awesome.
 
On the mid pipe, what are the other 2 openings for (those perpendicular to the pipe)? Also, since you removed the exup valve, don't you need to add a pc3/5 with proper mapping?
 
GPz1100 said:
On the mid pipe, what are the other 2 openings for (those perpendicular to the pipe)? Also, since you removed the exup valve, don't you need to add a pc3/5 with proper mapping?
Click to expand...

Those are to add extra volume to the mid pipe and they are closed on the one end. Probably done to cancel some sort of exhaust waves that would cause unwanted resonance at a certain RPM.

I am not sure what OldSchool's plans are regarding a PC III\V, but the fact that he disconnected the EXUP cables is not a big deal. You will not get any sort of codes or drivability issues as long as the EXUP servo motor remains connected. The EXUP on the Gen II bikes was really more more passing the various exhaust noise regulations than anything else. The stock ECU can certainly handle the addition of a slip-on exhaust, but I would suspect that with a PC and proper dyno tune a few more ponies are to be had.
 
NJFZ1 said:
Those are to add extra volume to the mid pipe and they are closed on the one end. Probably done to cancel some sort of exhaust waves that would cause unwanted resonance at a certain RPM.

I am not sure what OldSchool's plans are regarding a PC III\V, but the fact that he disconnected the EXUP cables is not a big deal. You will not get any sort of codes or drivability issues as long as the EXUP servo motor remains connected. The EXUP on the Gen II bikes was really more more passing the various exhaust noise regulations than anything else. The stock ECU can certainly handle the addition of a slip-on exhaust, but I would suspect that with a PC and proper dyno tune a few more ponies are to be had.
Click to expand...

My original plan was (and still is) to add a Holeshot header when funds become available, rather than gutting the cat in the stock header. At the same time I will add a PC V or whatever is available then, and have it properly tuned and dynoed. For me the can was more about weight loss (3.9 kg) to offset the hard bags and mounts, which it did. The looks and reported good sound will be just an added bonus. The fact that it shows off the very nice swingarm just adds to it for me.:sinister:
IMG_0055.jpg

holeshot.jpg
 
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Thanks for the reply.

Where can I get just a midpipe (either with or without those extra spigots).

I have a very nice areap carbon fiber slip on on my c14 right now. It looks quite similar to the pipe posted above, and will likely attach just as easily, but needs a proper mid pipe to attach to the factory header.
 
Like Tony said

NJFZ1 said:
Those are to add extra volume to the mid pipe and they are closed on the one end. Probably done to cancel some sort of exhaust waves that would cause unwanted resonance at a certain RPM.

I am not sure what OldSchool's plans are regarding a PC III\V, but the fact that he disconnected the EXUP cables is not a big deal. You will not get any sort of codes or drivability issues as long as the EXUP servo motor remains connected. The EXUP on the Gen II bikes was really more more passing the various exhaust noise regulations than anything else. The stock ECU can certainly handle the addition of a slip-on exhaust, but I would suspect that with a PC and proper dyno tune a few more ponies are to be had.
Click to expand...

GPz1100 said:
On the mid pipe, what are the other 2 openings for (those perpendicular to the pipe)? Also, since you removed the exup valve, don't you need to add a pc3/5 with proper mapping?
Click to expand...

The Midpipe has what some have referred to as "Coke cans" sticking out from the side that faces the swingarm. Like Tony said they have something to do with resonance by adding volume. I should have taken a shot through the can itself. Without the db. killer it is WIDE open. Here is a shot from the underside of the midpipe.
IMG_0036.jpg

It shows the coke cans and the centerstand stop. MIVV included a rubber stopper for the center stand in case you lost your original, always nice to have a spare. The midpipe did not come polished and I polished it with green jewler's rouge and a green (medium) canvas wheel. It was my first attempt at stainless polishing and I am happy with the results.
Before:
midpipe.jpg

After:
IMG_0034.jpg

The midpipe was checked for all clearances before being tightened and the "coke cans" are of no issue. Not easy to get in to polish though.
 
PJ's

GPz1100 said:
Thanks for the reply.

Where can I get just a midpipe (either with or without those extra spigots).

I have a very nice areap carbon fiber slip on on my c14 right now. It looks quite similar to the pipe posted above, and will likely attach just as easily, but needs a proper mid pipe to attach to the factory header.
Click to expand...

Check at PJ's parts .com. It's where I got the can, and he's a great guy to deal with. I am sure that MIVV must sell the midpipe in case it gets damaged. I have seen a midpipe without the "coke cans" but don't know why there is a difference. Watch the Copper dog exhaust install video and you will see what I mean.
Gallery
here is the link to PJ's:
PJ's Parts - Accessories For Every Bike And Rider:deal:
 
I asked the same question to Mivv about the 2 ''coke cans'' in the mid-pipe, there for noise regulations in Europe EU, because the exhaust is made in Italy, you can get a aftermarket mid-pipe made by Mivv without them for race purposes $150, this is the strange part you cannot buy the exhaust with the race mid-pipe from new they will only sell the exhaust with the mid-pipe with the ''coke cans''. To be honest I would'nt want it any louder and apparently their are very small gains power wise, I like the polished look well done
 
Took her for a ride! OH YEAH

Well it isn't the best video as I was still trying to figure the Camera out, and the sound is no where near what the thing really sounds like. Deep throaty rumble, a HUGE improvement. The popping isn't bad if you use control on the throttle decelerating. Nice gurgling, but drop the throttle, well I wouldn't suggest it at night coming past the neighbors house.
but here it is:
[ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=B3i26FuoZlM]YouTube - MVI_0097.MOV[/ame]
IMG_0093.jpg


I will definately be doing the AIS block off, Just not right away. Today was just a teaser as the weather turns ugly on Monday.
 
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The Shining

FZ1inNH said:
Great pipe and sound! Very meticulous install. Great work Lee!

How much time did it take to polish that mid-pipe?
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I am used to polishing aluminum, used to drive a rig, Western star and she always gleamed. Stainless was new to me and you have to be careful not to ruin the surface by overheating one area. Only took me a full hour to get it looking like it does. The key is even pressure with the wheel ( on a hand held, adjustable speed Makita buffer @ 2000 rpm) and green Jewlers rouge. Some truck stops or a Peterbilt dealer will carry the bricks of it. I clamped the center stand bracket in a table vise and polished most of it. To do the hard to get spots between the cans I clamped the polisher handle in the vise and held the pipe. Wear a mask if you do this and eye protection. You'll be blowing black stuff out your nose for days and it's uncomfortable on the eyes. Figured that out long ago the first time I polished a truck.
 
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Butt Dyno

It is really hard to be completely objective coming off the big hibernation we call winter. It definately feels peppier up top and better in the midrange (to a degree) I actually spun the rear tire coming around a corner today being a little too ham fisted (a first on this bike, and the tires were nice and warm). Nothing serious and I still have a grin thinking about it. The spectators waiting to cross the street got a show anyway. High end roll on is definately improved. Remember I also put in a K&N, but without the airbox mod. I am waiting to do that until I do the header, PCV, and the warranty to expire.

I may put the DB killer in with a small stainless nut/bolt for those early morning commutes as it really is louder than the stock can. I actually like some of my neighbors. :poke:
 
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