Installing a fuze block

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DPhantom679

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Getting ready to install my fuzeblock. Did not find anything here doing a search and was wondering if anyone has done and if so how the install went. I am putting this in to make sure everything is fused as well as cleanging up the nest of wiring under the seat.
 
Even with a fuse block it will still be a nest. Only thing you are going to save are a bunch of connections on the battery terminal. I just wired in a inline heavy duty fuse and wired all of them through a single thick wire.
 
I installed one earlier this year. The unit itself fits under the pillion seat on my Gen II. Barely. It's wedged in on the right side of the toolkit. Crazybiker's partly right. It moves the wires somewhere else, but you still have wires. Personally, I think that the installation looks cleaner, and it's easier to manage adding new accessories.

I put an inline 30A fuse and an SAE connector coming off the battery. The complimentary SAE connects to the Fuze Block, plus one more wire for the relay -- but I can't remember what I tapped it from. Maybe the tail light? In any case, I used a posi-tap connector for that connection. The SAE connector is nice because I can remove the fuze block easily and hook up my float charger directly to the battery.

I added a heated jacket liner to my kit this summer, and installation took all of about 5 minutes. Any other accessories are about the same from an electrical standpoint. I know that you can build a fuse block for a lot less than what they cost from fuzeblocks.com (or twistedthrottle.com -- they licensed it), but I felt that the product was solid, looked great, and was well worth the money.
 
I picked up an inexpensive 6 fuse block from an autoparts store a few years back and attached it to the plastic behind the battery with industrial velcro. It has worked well for these last few years.
 
I only have the tender lead at the battery. Everything else is tapped on to exiting OEM wiring with a splice and solder. I did run one ground for the grip heaters back to the battery negative though. No mess anywhere!
 
I tried splicing and soldering on my old bike and was never happy with it. I'm sure part of that is my lack of experience in joining wires like that. When you're modifying the existing wiring harness, do you cut the wire, then attach all three ends together (like a "Y"), or do you just peal the insulation back and attach the new wire (like a "T")?

Personally, I prefer to hack into the wiring as little as possible. The the Fuze Block only needs to be tapped in to a single "switched" wire to enable the relay. Another nice feature is the ability to change an "outlet" from switched to unswitched by simply moving a fuse. I took advantage of that when I noticed that my bike was sitting for a few days due to cold/rainy weather. During the Summer, I leave my phone charger on all the time, but this time of year, it's set to be switched with the ignition.
 
I strip the OEM wire but don't cut it, then tin it and the end I want to join with solder. After tinning them, you simply hold them together and glide to solder tip over them both to bond them. Then wrap with electrical tape.

I like this method because it doesn't cut the OEM wire and if you want to remove that mod, you simply hit it again with the solder tip and they come apart. Cover up the OEM slice location with tape and there's no mess left. :tup:

A lot of people don't tin both ends separately and try to twist and solder the whole bundle at the same time. I think this is where soldering becomes problematic.
 
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