Help me get comfortable!

Gearhead82

Gearhead82

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I've had my FZ1 for about 6 weeks now and logged about 2200 miles. Most of the miles have been just regular commuting to work/gym/church etc. Sometimes I'll take off after work and just do 50 miles of exploring new roads in the area, etc. I've done a couple 140 mile rides basically to get out to some nicer roads, ride for a bit, then come home. I've found that I can only be comfortable on the bike for about 60-70 miles at a time.

My biggest complaint is the seat. My bike had the Yamaha Gel Seat on it when I bought it so I can't compare to the stocker but after 60 miles my arse cheeks are very sore. It's been to the point where I've actually sat on the passenger seat for a couple minutes just to change position! I know the seat issue has been beaten to death. If found that on my bicycle, a harder seat actually seems to be more comfortable for me. Would it be worth maybe trying to track down a used stock seat to try before I start randomly purchasing $300 seats to try (Sargent, Corbin etc. . .)??

The other issue is my legs. My left hip was so sore at the end of yesterday's 140 mile ride that I had to use my arms to lift my leg from the ground up to the peg at an intersection at one point. It almost feels like the width of the seat/tank combined with the position of the pegs is what's causing the issue. I think I originally hurt/pulled that tendon at the gym last week but riding DEFINITELY makes it worse. BTW, I made 15 minute stops at about mile 60 and mile 80 yesterday. Could I benefit from maybe lowering my bars 1" and dropping or moving the pegs back to help me "spread out" a little more? I don't want to loose much cornering clearance... Newbie question, but are rearsets what I would need to research to do this?

Hand/arms/wrists are in perfect comfort for the entire ride.

I'm just a hair over 6' and weigh 270lbs. I'm not fat, just a big guy (20% body fat). I'm 28 and in very good shape. I work out and do cardio at least 3-4 days/week.

Thanks for any feedback!
 
Since you mention a harder seat, such as a good bicycle seat, you may want to look into a Corbin. Their seats are harder and dished out in the rear while narrow in the front. Should you choose that route, I'd suggest calling them and explaining what and where you hurt and to also insure they don't use their stock seat cover which is noted to be very slippery. Tell them you want a cover that offers grip on the seat. They will make it right and if it isn't, they will alter it for you after the fact for either free or little money.

I have the Top Saddlery seat which is uber-soft and cushy and is the long cut to give me more room from the tank to the rear of the seat. I never get sore and the only stops now are the gas stations. ;)
 
To OP,

Unfortunately you may actually have to try something to see if it'll work for you or not. The solution that some members here have used may not work for you.

I've only had mine for 4 1/2 months and the only issue i had is always sliding fwd everytime I hit a bump, I'm 5' 2" 117 soaking wet. Instead of me buying a new saddle which I almost wanted to do, I took seat to an upholstery shop local to me and had the pad halfway, going towards the front for $40. Like I said, it may not address your issue. You're fairly tall (comaparatively speaking) so you have room to play with padding as necessary, either addition/removal. GL
 
I have the Yamaha gel seat on mine and have the same problem. Good for about 2 hours and then a steady decline after that. Put the stock seat back on and went for a ride the other day, after 45 minuts I was done. Gel seat is better than stock but not by much. I am thinking of getting the Corbin, a friend has one on his VTR and I liked it a lot. One of the problems with the Corbin is due to its shape it holds you in place and does not allow to shift and hang off, if thats your riding style. Unfortunatly what is good for one may not be good for another so you may have to try it to be sure.
 
Yea, the seat seems to be a big complaint for most. I have a Sargent on mine and frankly it may be better than the stock seat, but after going through a tank of gas I am done. Not sure if a Corbin would be better or not, but I do have a Corbin on my YZF1000 and I find that bike more comfortable than the FZ1. I would be willing to give the Corbin a try if I found a used one priced relatively cheap.
 
Im still running the stock seat, so I cant help much there. I plan to get a Top Saddelry in the future. I have a GenII 08 FZ1 and I am 5'11 and 175lbs.

I made my bike more comfy by replacing the FZ1 rubber foot pads with FZ6 foot pads (this gives you an extra half inch of leg room without losing any ground clearance). It isn't much, but its something, nd it's a cheap mod!

I also added a set of highway pegs, made by satan 666. Do a search on the forum to find more info on these forward mounted pegs. They let you stretch your legs out on the highway and greatly improve longer distance rides.

I have barback risers, which bring the handlebars up and back about an inch and a half from the stock position. After instaling the risers, I turned the handlebars downward a bit to change the angle of my wrists on the bars, this made a difference in overall riding comfort.
 
A night and day difference for me between the stock seat and a Corbin.

The Corbin is firm, but I wouldn't call is hard. It firmly cushions and one never bottoms out.

The principle behind the Corbin is to spread out the load-hence the dishing.
(Sargent uses the same principle. BTW, for what it's worth, I've tried both and clearly prefer Corbin. I weight about 225)


View attachment 3897

For more leg room, consider the Buell Foot peg mod. http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47340&highlight=Buell+foot

For lower bars, consider the SV650 mod. (I just completed this and love it.) http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/forum/showthread.php?t=78989&highlight=SV650+riser
 
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I just bought my FZ1 a month or two ago and one of the first things I did was order a set of Top Saddlery seats. With the stock seat it only took about 45 minutes before I became uncomfortable. I ordered my Top Saddlery seat lowered w/ a gel insert and I can go about 2-2.5 hours before I get uncomfortable now. I'm sure I would be able to go even longer than that had I not ordered the seats lowered as the lowering removes some of the cushioning. If you are average to "husky" in build I would recommend getting the Top Saddlery seat with the "long" option to keep from having to hug your crotch on the tank all the time. I sat on a Sargeant seat on my friend's bike and I was not impressed... but it all depends if you would rather have a firm or cushy seat.
 
Thanks for all the great replies. That Buell peg mod looks very promising! Same with the SV risers as i feel the bars are a little too tall, if anything. I guess I'll also have to save up some cash so I can hunt down a used sargent or corbin to try out. Those Top Saddelry seats look incredible but definitely out of my price range at the moment.
 
I have the gel seat but on long trips I use a sheepskin, helps a lot. For pegs I went to Knightsdesign lowered pegs for the fz1, huge difference and great poeple to deal with.
 
Update:

I just installed the Buell lowering pegs. Seems like it will be a change for the better although I feel very aware that my feet are closer to the ground now and feel like I'm going to be dragging pegs unexpectedely now. I took the feelers off. I'm sure it will just take some getting used to mentally. I only hit the feelers on the stock pegs once. I'm also thinking I might have to tweak my brake lever a little as I've got it adjusted all the way down now and it still feels a tad high and a little tougher to get to since the new pegs stick out away from the bike a little.

I'm going to try wearing some padded bike shorts under my pants for my next long ride as I'm too broke to be looking for a different seat right now.
 
Gearhead82 said:
Update:
I'm going to try wearing some padded bike shorts under my pants for my next long ride as I'm too broke to be looking for a different seat right now.
Click to expand...

That is what the Iron butt guys do and it should help. My Alpinestar pants have that padding built in and it definately helps.
 
Oldschool said:
That is what the Iron butt guys do and it should help. My Alpinestar pants have that padding built in and it definately helps.
Click to expand...

I just have a fat arse. :eek: :D

Actually, the FirstGear pants have nothing for added padding there but I may consider that as an option when I replace those!
 
Corbin Seat

Here is a pic my bike with my Corbin that I got in May. I went down to Hollister and made sure it was going to be the right seat for me. I have around 800 mile on it now and it is working out great for me. I'm 5'11" and 234lb.

View attachment 3931


Ride Safe
 
I have a Sargent. It s more dished than stock which helps my back. Like Corbin they are more frim than stock. I did 350 miles on one day on it last week and I was done. Stock seat was brutal after 200 miles.

There is a used Sargent on the FZ1OA site in the for sale section. He's asking 200 but who knows what he would take. Seat looks real good and is cheaper than new.
 
Gearhead82 said:
Update:

I just installed the Buell lowering pegs. Seems like it will be a change for the better although I feel very aware that my feet are closer to the ground now and feel like I'm going to be dragging pegs unexpectedely now. I took the feelers off. I'm sure it will just take some getting used to mentally. I only hit the feelers on the stock pegs once. I'm also thinking I might have to tweak my brake lever a little as I've got it adjusted all the way down now and it still feels a tad high and a little tougher to get to since the new pegs stick out away from the bike a little.

I'm going to try wearing some padded bike shorts under my pants for my next long ride as I'm too broke to be looking for a different seat right now.
Click to expand...

Instead of bending your lever, if you have access to a bench grinder, take your rear brake actuator assembly off, unscrew it from the lever and grind off the nub on the end of the stud. This should give you enough room to adjust it down a little further. I have the same pegs and this worked for me.
 
Jamieb said:
Instead of bending your lever, if you have access to a bench grinder, take your rear brake actuator assembly off, unscrew it from the lever and grind off the nub on the end of the stud. This should give you enough room to adjust it down a little further. I have the same pegs and this worked for me.
Click to expand...

I was looking at that today and thought that might work. Thanks for the confirmation!
 
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